Treating dogs with severe separation anxiety

Personal protection puppy training
The second big challenge is how to leash train our hyper young dog, without incurring any bodily injury whenever a squirrel decides to dash up a tree.Even though walking a dog is often portrayed as a Zen moment that is both peaceful and enjoyable, the reality of the situation is often not quite so perfect. In fact, leash training a puppy is probably one of the more challenging aspects of dog training.When our puppy is out on a walk, he is exposed to a lot of new stimuli, including new sights, sounds, and smells. Everything will be very exciting, even leaves flying in the wind and he will want to chase, smell, and see all of it at top speed. Here, we consider some of the key leash training ingredients that will help make dog walking into a fun, relaxing, and enjoyable experience.Train Your Puppy to Walk on a LeashPutting on a CollarIn the beginning, a puppy will be unfamiliar with collars and leashes. He may get apprehensive about having something new around his neck, and the weight of the leash may feel strange. My Shiba Inu was very sensitive to wearing collars during puppyhood.
When I first got my puppy, I would fasten a light leash onto his collar, let him move around, and play with the leash on. This will help him to associate being linked to me through the leash, as something fun and positive. My puppy quickly learned that it is in his best interest to slow down and walk with me because if he does, he gets more freedom, he gets to choose his favorite smell spots, and he also gets to stop to smell the roses.As with everything else, I set my dog up for success by starting small and taking things one step at a time.
In this way, we can both focus on walking together at a measured pace, without pulling.Once he is comfortable with walking on-leash inside the house, then we move to the backyard and practice there. Therefore, they can easily pick up germs and parasites from contaminated water or poop from other dogs and wild animals.I do early dog socialization by going to puppy class or puppy play sessions in daycare centers. My favorite collar is the no-slip Premier martingale collar, which I use together with a nice leather leash.Leather leashes may be a bit more expensive but they are easy on the hands, durable, and are secure even under heavy pulling. Leaving poop on the sidewalk and on other people’s lawns dirties the neighborhood, makes walking unpleasant, encourages dog poop eating, as well as gets people angry at all dogs and dog owners. We examine common leash training techniques including 180 turns, hand targeting, red-light-green-light, and leash corrections.
We consider the different types of leash biters and what are the different techniques for stopping this leash biting behavior. Dog Leash Training EquipmentTo effectively leash train our dog, we want to pick the best equipment based on his unique temperament, energy level, size, and style.
Using inappropriate leashes and collars may complicate training, worsen our dogs behavior, and sometimes even cause physical harm. Here, we consider the strengths and weaknesses of leash training equipment, including choke chains, prong collars, harnesses, and the head-halti.
Then I very slowly increase the challenge.I talk more about how I desensitize my puppy to a collar and a leash in the article above. I really appreciate that quick reply and am really impressed by it (most bloggers take ages to reply, if at all).I have tried that 180 turning method yesterday and a short leash, and noticed that my dog is unaffected by it.


I need to be very consistent, and I also shorten or lengthen the lead accordingly.A shorter lead gives me more control and gives my dog less freedom. Once we are good with that, I go to a very quiet area and do leash training there and then very slowly build up the environmental challenge. In this way, neither of us gets overly frustrated, but we still get in a lot of practice.Getting my dog to release some of his energy before the walk can also help. Next, I do leash training inside the house or in the backyard to get him used to walking next to me and following commands.
I start him in a calm state, which helps during the walk.Leash training my dogs took time, a lot of consistency, management of his environment, and patience.
What we are really struggling with is is reluctance to walk on a leash, he has no problem with a collar, since day one never has, but as soon as you attach a leash, he starts freaking out, yelping, pulling and lying flat on the ground not willing to move, when you try to move him, he gives the very famous Shiba Scream and I am sure the neighbors think we torture him.
NatasjaReply shibashake says November 7, 2014 at 3:18 pm With my Husky, I first attach a very light leash on a flat collar and just let her drag it around.
Thanks for telling me about positive training and so much information on dogs, puppies and, of course, humans. But one thing that seems not to work out or even progress is getting Benji to walk with a loose leash. Note that in the appartment, he walks beautifully for me and even heels perfectly if he gets enough treats, so it’s not a question of not understanding. During initial training, I practice walking him in the house first, then we do door manners, and we only leave when he is calm and willing to listen. This gets him into a good state of mind.At the start, we go for shorter but more frequent walks.
I am more strict with him at the start of the walk, and I slowly give him more freedom for good behavior. Being closer to home also means that I can quickly end the walk if need be.I try to set Sephy up for success as much as I can. Initially, I did not have a good way of stopping the behavior, so he just did whatever he wanted. Since he really values his walks, he stopped biting on the leash.I have found that ending the walk is a very effective consequence for all my dogs, and I also use it to stop poop eating behavior. Eating poop and leash biting are two absolute no-nos and will result in an instant march home. I try to desensitize them as much as I can to exciting outside stimulus, so that they learn to stay calm and to control their impulses in the presence of other dogs, cats, squirrels, etc.In general, my strategy is always to set everything up to maximize success.
Thankfully, cats, rabbits and squirrels are in short supply and he doesn’t try to chase cyclists, I expect because he is always on a leash.


But so far I have not seen any evidence that Benji is bothered when I take him back home if he doesn’t comply with my rules for walks, and believe me, I have tried many times in the past.
As to shortening the leash, he seems not to care, until I have it almost to the harness, and then he throws a tantrum.
We first got a no-pull harness (which has the leash fastening on the front of the dog instead of at the back).
During puppy class, he went nuts when we tried to put a bandanna on him as part of a training exercise.Ultimately, we switched to a no-slip collar which worked out best for everyone.
This is why most people recommend using a harness.If I got a new Shiba puppy, I would most probably start with a harness and make sure to slowly and properly desensitize puppy to it in a positive way. We did not do that with Sephy, and used force instead, which likely contributed to his sensitivity to harnesses and handling.Here is a bit more on harnesses, collars, and other leash training equipment. There’s also a small courtyard that I use for walks and we just go round in circles a few times. My Shiba Inu, Sephy, was very reactive to other dogs, and he was also very stubborn, so it took many months to get him more comfortable around other dogs, and also to get him to stop with his leash biting. So we had to do some retraining and earn back his trust.However, I started walking him outside pretty much as soon as he was vaccinated. In the beginning though, I took him to more quiet areas for our walk, so that we would have a positive and successful experience.
We also did puppy classes where he got to socialize in a positive and structured way with other puppies.The key I found, is to start small, supervise, and control the environment, so that I do not to expose Sephy to situations that he cannot handle and will lose control.
I learned that the key to retraining, is not to feel embarrassed with Lara’s behavior, but to observe it carefully, identify the source of the behavior, and help her learn alternate behaviors for dealing with her excitement.
Thanks for any help you can give!Reply shibashake says June 24, 2013 at 2:12 pm Congratulations on your new puppy!In the beginning, I do least training inside the house or in the backyard.
This is a more low stimulus area, so I can focus on getting my dog used to the collar and leash, and getting him used to walking with me.
Once we are comfortable with walking in the backyard, then I *very slowly* increase the environmental challenge.I only walk my dog in the neighborhood *after* he is fully vaccinated.
Puppies still have developing immune systems and can get very sick from drinking contaminated water, eating contaminated roadside stuff, or bad poop from other dogs or animals.I start by walking my dog on a shorter leash (I use a 6 foot leather leash so that I can easily change the length of the leash during walks).
A good professional trainer can help a lot with timing and technique, as well as with learning how to read our dog.



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