Treating dogs with severe separation anxiety

Personal protection puppy training
New puppies have no understanding of the proper place to eliminate until their owners housebreak them.
Between 8 and 16 weeks of age is considered the prime socialization period for puppies.[5] At this point, your puppy can only hold his bladder for around 2 hours. At 4-6 months, puppies in this age group can often seem "half" house trained due to their ability to be easily distracted. Acquire a crate or “den.” Just like people, puppies don’t want to eliminate near the areas they eat and sleep. Puppies under 6 months old should never be left in their crate for more than 3 to 4 hours regardless of bladder control. When you come home after crating your puppy, you can immediately take your puppy outside and not give him the opportunity to make a mistake in the house. Praise the puppy after he finishes and don’t interrupt the “flow.” Some puppies are so sensitive that they may stop in the middle of eliminating if you praise them too soon. Puppy will whine instead of going in the crate, so by paying attention, you can help force the proper behavior, allowing you to then reward puppy and show the puppy the extra freedom that comes from the appropriate behavior.
If your puppy does wake you up in the night because he needs to go, keep the trip out short and to the point.
Commercially produced pet mess cleaners contain special enzymes that eradicate the urine odor that attracts the puppy back to the same spot.
The area surrounding the crate does not have to be much bigger that four to six feet around when the puppies are small. Don't be surprised by “reversions." Your puppy may revert to eliminating inside again after you thought he was trained. Some people hold that spreading newspapers suggests that peeing in the house is acceptable. Using newspapers may delay the process a bit, but if you gradually decrease the size of the newspapered area and eliminate messes in undesignated areas of the house completely, you will still be successful. Remember, that if the puppy is “forced” to eliminate in the kennel because of the boarding facility’s schedule, you will have taken a large step backward in the training process.
Watch your puppy like a hawk at all times, especially in the early stages of housebreaking. If you are consistent in your puppy housebreaking in the very beginning, especially when it is inconvenient to you (late at night, while you are watching your favorite TV show, etc.), you will actually help the puppy housebreak himself to alert you when he has to go. Leaving a puppy's food bowl out all day filled to the brim is a bad way to house train him (or keep him in shape).
Start training your puppy with treats like telling him to sit with a treat in your hand and when he does, give him the treat. You might be a little frustrated right now because house training is not progressing as fast as you had hoped. Every puppy presents different challenges, but there are common instincts that will facilitate the house training process.
The section below on "HouseTraining Taxi Service" will tell you WHEN to give your pup immediate access to her toilet area. If your puppy is not sleeping in her crate or pen, and is out in the house, you must follow her around to know what she is doing: chewing a bone, running circles, getting a drink of water, etc. It's very important to put your puppy on a regular and timely feeding schedule; What goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule.
The key to house training is preventing "mistakes" and rewarding the puppy for going in your chosen spot. Taxi your pup for about one month (until the pup is about 3 months old as this should give the pup enough time to develop some bladder and bowel control).
If you have a large breed puppy and can't pick them up, slip on a leash quickly and "rush" them to the potty area, do not stop until you are there !
However, with a poop you might get some warning - sometimes sniffing; usually circling by the puppy. As always, never make a big deal about cleaning up after your puppy when an accident occurs.
Just before you go to bed and turn out the lights, go get your puppy, no matter where she may be, asleep or not, and taxi her to the potty area. Confine your puppy to his, 'puppy-proofed' bathroom or an exercise pen and paper (or wee-wee pad) the entire floor.
While your puppy is confined to the bathroom or his pen, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper.
Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above.
When your pup does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room or pen unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room or pen with you in the rest of your home.
The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. House training a puppy or adult dog may seem daunting, but almost any dog can be trained to wait at the door and relieve himself outside, instead of going in the house. When you first start training your dog to go outside, you're teaching him that when he feels the urge, that means it's time to go outside. Remember to take your dog outside 20 to 30 minutes after every meal and after he drinks water, since he'll likely have to go to the bathroom. If you can't stay home all day to supervise your dog, you'll need to have someone else come over to take the dog out several times during the day.
If you have to leave your puppy for eight hours at a time, the puppy is going to have an accident.
This version of How to House Train Your Dog was reviewed by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS on January 28, 2015. All house training methods will go far more smoothly if you have a fundamental understanding of a dog’s bodily processes. The house training method that best suits your and your puppy’s needs depends essentially on your lifestyle and tolerance level. If your lifestyle allows, the Direct method is the ideal method to house train your puppy or dog.
There are numerous reasons why it could be necessary to house train your puppy or dog indoors. Fortunately there are numerous tools on the market that aid in the Indoor house training method, even if it is a long term scenario. The benefits of indoor house training are obvious, however the possible disadvantages are not that apparent. You will eventually be able to leave your dog out of the crate for longer and longer periods. The age of your puppy has a bearing on the puppy's ability to be house trained and the amount of time you can take between potty breaks. He's likely to want to explore the world, which means chasing a moth might prevent him from eliminating when you take him to his spot.

Hopefully you've established house training long before this age, but if not, you can still do so, even for adult dogs.
Crate-training your puppy is a great way to help the puppy learn bladder control.[7] The crate also gives security. They need more interaction.[9] If you have to work during the day, hire a dog-walking service to come let your puppy out appropriately. After he has been introduced to his new surroundings, give him a drink of water and immediately take him outside to the predetermined spot.
Your puppy may start to understand that he should eliminate outside before he understands how to let you know he needs to go. Whenever you take puppy out at a designated time, if the puppy eliminates within 3-5 minutes, praise them and place them in the pen surrounding the crate giving them more freedom.
If you turn on too many lights or play at all, then your puppy will think it’s play time and might start to think it’s okay to wake you up for that instead of just potty breaks.[19] Simply take him out and then return him to his bed. Do your best to set the puppy up for success and minimize the opportunities to have “accidents” by using crates, dog pens, baby gates, and leashes to control the areas to which your puppy has access.
The area around the crate will increase gradually as the dog gets more housebroken and as large breed puppies get bigger. This can happen for a number of reasons, such as sexual maturity, change of routine, curiosity overwhelming the need to go at the usual time, etc. A doggie door is great if you have a proper fence (one that a puppy cannot get under or over) and a gate. If you don’t have a backyard, a doggie door, or someone who can come let your puppy out while you’re away, you can still use a paper-training method to get a puppy to eliminate in a designated indoor spot. You will be using confinement to a smaller area to limit the puppy’s access to the whole house.
This will designate the spot as a "potty spot" and the training process will go much more quickly. Keeping the puppy on leash attached to a person or next to a person and tethered to heavy piece of furniture will prevent losing track of the puppy.
As the behavior becomes more solid, you can wean off the treats while still praising the puppy for the correct behavior. You have a new baby in the house, so don’t expect either of you to sleep through the night right away. Every hour or so, take the puppy to the door and holding its paw to ring the bell, say "potty" each time, then take the puppy out to the designated spot to go potty. Remember to take the dog out for walks regularly and be kind to your new little friend and you will have a housebroken pup in no time!
Do not scold the puppy for not listening, continue the steps and never hit the puppy with any body parts. So even if you have the day off, you will still need to get up to take your puppy outside around the same time as usual. This article will detail a training program with techniques that will house train your puppy as soon as possible and foster a trusting and loving relationship between you and your pup.
Check the water bowl frequently to note how much she is drinking and to make sure the water bowl is full. Your pup needs to develop his natural "den instinct" and learn where to eliminate - and where not to.
If you are going outside, put a collar and leash on the pup immediately after picking them up, unless the toilet area is safely enclosed and escape proof. By paying close attention to your puppy when they are out and about in the house, you may get a heads-up. When you first bring your dog or puppy home, plan to spend a lot of time watching your pet to make sure he doesn't go to the bathroom indoors. If you leave your dog or puppy free to roam the house at night, he's sure to end up soiling the floor. If your dog makes a mess in the house (and he definitely will), clean it up right away and use a cleaning solution to get rid of the scent. Contrary to some beliefs, this does not teach a dog not to go to the bathroom in the house. If you'll also take your dog outside to relieve himself, consider filling the tray with soil.
Take your dog to the bathroom mat on a strict schedule, just as you would if you were training your dog to go to a spot outside.
Your dog is learning what is expected of him and can only be expected to "hold it" for so long. Either hire a dog walker or confine the puppy to a place where the mess won't damage your carpets and can be easily cleaned up. This usually prevents the dog from going in "its regular spot" because they can't find it (no smell!). The majority of the rules and guidelines that apply to house training puppies, apply equally to house training adult dogs. However, when house training begins your dog does not have any idea that this is expected of them.
Usually your dog or puppy will circle, sniff, scratch a door, whine or whimper for no other apparent reason. This method is frequently called the Traditional method, without doubt as it has existed forever and does not require any of today’s mod-cons. Older puppies and adult dogs will commonly circle, sniff or scratch on the floor or door, whenever they have the urge, particularly when they are starting to comprehend that messing inside is a “no-no”.
With sufficient repetition, your dog will begin to connect this word with (1) leaving the house and (2) subsequently doing their business. Should you begin kidding around with your pup at this point this, will detract from the lesson, and the learning process can take more time. We have merged all the indoor house training methods simply because all occur or begin inside your home. If the Indoor method is a precursor to shifting things outdoors, your later house training is going to be delayed and definitely will never be as short as the Direct method. Should you be training an adult dog, call, cajole or lead them to the potty area when you see that pre-potty signs. Apart from discouraging your dog from messing in your house, it also teaches a puppy they can hold in the urge to pee or poop. If you are training a puppy you can purchase a larger crate with a divider to isolate the pup.
By now, a puppy of four months can wait about four to five hours before needing to eliminate, while a puppy of six months can go as long as six or seven hours.
Although not impossible, housebreaking older dogs that have developed bad habits generally requires much more energy and diligence on your part than doing it “right” the first time as a puppy. If you are consistent, and do the same thing and expect the same action every single time, your puppy will catch on very quickly. If they do not eliminate within 3-5 minutes, place the puppy inside the crate and close the door.
If your puppy lives in a house with more than one person, make sure that everyone is taking the steps to make the house training process quick and easy.
Even if you do have a proper fence, be aware of area wild animals that might eat your puppy such as coyotes, etc.

This is just an extra precaution in case the puppy needs to go and cannot wait for you to return home. If you cannot keep an eye on your puppy for some reason, put him in a safe and secure puppy-proofed spot (such as a crate or some other small room with easy to clean floors, such as linoleum, closed off with a baby gate so you can peek in as needed).
Consult your vet to learn the correct amount to feed your puppy and limit the puppy’s intake to this specific amount at the recommended intervals. Puppies have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
Successful house training depends upon your diligent supervision so you can be there to show your pup where to eliminate.
This means that though you may be making tremendous progress housetraining, there will be "mistakes".
If you cannot watch her continuously, you must put her back into her pen or crate to prevent potty training "mistakes". To potty train our puppy we must condition a desire in the pup to avoid soiling the "den" - your house. Well, he may not make it all the way to the toilet area, potty or poop in the "wrong" place and you have missed a housetraining opportunity!
At the same time you will train a stong preference in your pup to eliminate in your chosen spot. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your puppy and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area. While it may seem excessive, try to take him outside as frequently as possible, about every half an hour. Having a feeding schedule will make it easier to predict when your dog will have to go to the bathroom, making house training easier. Again, a puppy should be given more opportunities to go outside, since it has a smaller bladder.
If your dog shows signs that he needs to go to the bathroom, take him outside right away, even if it's before the designated time to go out.[2] Include a verbal cue, such as saying, "outside" before you take him out. Dogs need plenty of exercise and playtime too, so you should never leave them crated for more than a few hours at a time or overnight. Never raise your voice or take on a menacing tone, because your dog will start to associate his bodily functions with punishment and fear. He'll eventually come to associate going to the bathroom on the mat with positive feelings, and he'll start going there without your help before too long. Even if your dog does connect your angry behavior to the mess on the floor, it may backfire. His favorite article he’s worked on is How to Watch Star Wars on Command Prompt, but the first edit he ever made was a spelling correction on How to Test for Diabetes in Cats. Get it right and your dog or puppy will likely be doing their business in the proper place earlier than you could expect. The more attention and focus you can give your new puppy or dog in this crucial training stage, the quicker the messy part of your partnership is going to be. Your puppy does not have complete control of their bladder or sphincter muscles until about Six months of age. If you feed your dog or puppy at the same time each day, you will be able to predict when it is time for them to do their business. Toilet training in a high-rise apartment does not leave many alternatives and puppy bladders are small and have to work frequently.
And when all else fails, good old newspaper also do the trick, but does tend to leave a certain amount of odor. The idea of caging a little puppy or worse a fully grown dog seems unnatural and restrictive. This can often make the puppy try to eliminate in hidden areas around the home away from your presence.[2] Serious behavior problems beyond housebreaking can develop when you don’t use positive training methods. The idea is to use the natural instinct to avoid sleeping in your own mess to help with the housebreaking process. If your whole family has gone, have somebody who knows about puppies come down and babysit. So, if they potty in the wrong place, you didn't take them to their potty area soon enough - plain and simple. Urgency is key here - you want to startle the pup just a little as you move towards them to pick them up, but you DO NOT want to scare the pup.
Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time.
When he makes a mess in the house, just clean it up and stick to the routine, since punishing a dog will simply make him afraid of you. Your dog might conclude that you don't want to see him eliminate at all and go to greater lengths to hide it from you, making house training even more difficult. The single thing you will achieve is teaching your dog or puppy that carrying out normal bodily processes is bad. Pre-treated pads or comparable products contain attractants so your pup will seek out the pad each time a need comes up. If you have a large breed puppy, there are crates designed to “grow” with your puppy, so you don’t have to waste money buying bigger sizes as they age. After the short waiting period, take the puppy outside again, if they eliminate, they get more freedom in the larger area. If they can still smell the urine or feces, they will continue to eliminate in the same spot.[20] This is also why the dog should remain on leash inside the house for many months before allowing free range of the whole house.
So many times when housetraining, a puppy is led to the door and on the way they just stop and do their business. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire area. Not every dog is going to take to crate training, in particular those who have pre-existing anxiety issues. And second, she will not necessarily associate you as the provider of her food (see our article on being a pack leader and winning a puppy's respect and trust). This usually happens because the puppy has not developed enough bladder or bowel control yet to "hold it" until they get to the toilet area or they simply don't know where the toilet area is yet. Not only has the pup made "a mistake," but you have lost a chance to reward for going in the right place.
At the start, it might take a while for your dog to understand exactly what it is about, but they all get it in the end. They will not get the reason why you are yelling for something they did half an hour before. If you crate train properly, your dog ultimately looks at their crate as their den or safe-haven, and will not do their business there. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the house to one spot outside the house.

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