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You can love a dog all you want, but when they seem to be barking constantly, all the love in the world won't help. If you tried all the patience in the world and nothing is working, TV's own dog whisperer, Cesar Millan, says that there's nothing wrong with seeking the help of a professional. How to Get Your Dog to Stop Barking and Lunging on Leash Many dogs bark and lunge at other dogs or at certain people or objects. Leashes and collars are not a natural thing for dogs to wear, and it is important to acclimate your pet to these tools from a young age. When teaching a young dog to walk on a leash it is helpful to let him burn off his energy first. If your own dog is behaving appropriately you can let him say hi to the other dog in a calm manner. If your dog is not behaving appropriately, use the leash and collar to redirect his attention forward and continue your nice calm walk. If your dog is already at the point where he is exhibiting leash frustration it is not too late. The easiest way to overcome bad habits is to have a set schedule where you have a successful encounter with another dog at least twice a week.
Give yourself plenty of training time so that you can walk your dog past the new dog over and over until he starts showing appropriate behavior. Follow the same advice of always giving him plenty of exercise before his walk to tire him out, and then focus on making your walks uneventful by staying calm when you encounter other dogs along the way. Every time you end on a good note your dog will start to associate new dogs with calmness and not frustration. Dogs are loyal, funny, smart, and love nothing more than cuddling up beside you for a session of napping and maybe some butt-scratching.


Once you've figured out what's causing the behavior and learn how to address it, the whole barking dilemma is a thing easily solved! Help them spend time with others dogs, go to dog parks, or have supervised visits with other pet owners. If your dog is strong and fast and catches you off guard, you can wind up with a sprained shoulder or faceplanted on the sidewalk. Leave her to her own devices and she won’t settle down till the other dog is far enough away.
And you can punish your dog hard enough to shut down her explosion, sure--but you can’t punish her hard enough to make her feel the world is peachy keen in proximity to other dogs.
In addition, from your dog’s point of view the aggressive display seems to work pretty well--after all, the other dog always goes away. Several factors can affect it--the other dog’s size, appearance, and behavior, for three. A big dog with a naturally high tail and an intense stare might as well have a target painted on him--and in fact, that intense stare suggests he’s a little reactive himself. How many close encounters your dog has already had that day will affect his stress level and thus his propensity to blow.
Your job as your dog’s guardian is to look out for his welfare, and that means helping him out of tough spots. If you’re blindsided--say, a dog comes around the corner--and he does explode, then just hold that leash till you can get out of Dodge. I know some people will be happy to give you the evil eye and tell you you should scold or hurt your dog. Remember, this is damage control till you get help.Desensitization and Counterconditioning for Reactive DogsThere are two scientifically sound and humane approaches to behavior modification for reactive dogs.


In this process, you start with the mildest version of the problem stimulus that your dog will notice.
As soon as your dog notices it, you deliver something your dog loves--usually, this will be a superdeluxe treat, roast chicken let’s say.
When desensitization and counterconditioning is done right, your dog learns that the sight of other dogs reliably predicts that roast chicken appears in his face.
Over time he comes to tolerate or even look forward to the proximity of other dogs, because they are such excellent predictors of succulent dead bird.The Constructional Aggression Treatment for Reactive DogsThe second approach is called the Constructional Aggression Treatment, or CAT. One is that though aggressive displays may start in a moment of panic, dogs learn over time that aggression works. The second premise is that most dogs are friendly in some contexts--so the trick is to teach her to import those friendly behaviors into the problem situation. In a CAT session, the learner dog is presented with a mild version of the problem stimulus--for the purposes of this podcast, another dog. As soon as the learner dog offers any non-aggressive behavior, the other dog moves further away.
Also, many dogs benefit from appropriate behavioral medication--ideally, prescribed by a vet board-certified in this specialty.Dogs do better when we guide them and help them succeed.



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