Treating dogs with severe separation anxiety

Personal protection puppy training
I will never take a pup out of a crate when he is fussing, as that only teaches if he fusses enough, then he can come out.
The real reason for crate training, besides preventing problems, is to help you predict when the pup will need to eliminate, so you can take him to the correct spot. Kennel style crates are hard plastic crates that are enclosed (except for ventilation holes) on all sides except for the front, which has a wire door. A puppy pen, which has wire walls but no floor or cover is another option for very young dogs, but be aware that older dogs may be able to move the pen across the floor or even flip it over, so it should only be used under supervision. Put a piece of plywood on top of the crate that extends about one foot beyond the sides of the crate, then draping a towel or blanket down the sides.
Always remember only to let a dog out of his crate when he is not crying; otherwise, he will learn that crying opens the door.
Start saying the command on its own, and when the dog goes to the crate, drop a treat inside to reward him.
Remember, only release the dog when she is quiet, so that you reward the good behavior, rather than teaching her that whining gets her what she wants. Slowly and incrementally increase the time until you have built up to about 30 minutes of content crate time. Note that with the exception of nighttime, you should never crate your dog for longer than 4 hours at a time. If you choose to let your puppy run around the house, take him back outside in 20 minutes to prevent accidents.
In case of accidents: Be sure to use a stain and odor remover so that your dog does not eliminate waste in the same place.
When you first get the puppy don't immediately put him in the crate it will just scare him. It becomes a familiar and secure place, whether in the car, at a motel or a dog show, visiting, or just at home. Place the crate in an area so he is with you, and part of family activities, even as an observer. Not only does this provide comfort to the puppy, but your own sleeping patterns will encourage the pup to slumber on and form instinct.
The idea is to make the crate the dog's go-to safe place, which he associates with pleasant things. The crate should allow enough room for standing, sitting, and stretching out, but you don't want the crate to be so big that your dog has enough room to make one section of the crate the bathroom and the other the sleeping area. Many of these are airline compliant, so this may be a good option if you plan to travel with your pet. If your dog has a favorite toy or comforter, place that in the crate in order to give the dog the idea that it is a nice place.
As part of crate training you will seed the crate with tasty treats, again so that the dog associates it as a great location where nice things happen. There will be nights when your new dog is not fully crate trained, but you need to keep him safe overnight.
You may want to place the dog, particularly a young puppy, in a large cardboard box beside your bed for the first couple of nights, while you get busy crate training him during the day.
The maximum time you can leave a young puppy overnight is 4 hours, so set your alarm clock (ideally for every 2 - 3 hours). You want the dog to "find" the crate of his own accord so that he is more likely to return to the crate.
When introducing the dog, set the crate up in the desired location and leave the door open. You can place special treats such as cubes of cheese or pieces of chicken (depending on your dog's likes, dislikes, and allergies) inside the crate sporadically.


After the dog has become accustomed to eating in the crate and goes into the crate all the way while eating, begin to close the door whilst he eats. Once a dog has gotten used to the door being closed whilst he eats, start gradually increasing the amount of time the door stays closed. For example, leave him in the crate for 2 minutes after eating is finished for 2-3 days before increasing the time to 5 minutes. At the same time as the dog gets used to the crate, it helps to give a command that the pet associates with going into the crate. It is important that the dog does not immediately associate his crate with being alone or abandoned.
As your dog gets used to it, instead of staying with her all the time, get up and briefly leave the room. Repeat the crating and leaving process several times each day, whilst building up the amount of time that you spend out of the room before returning to release him. When your dog feels comfortable being alone in the crate for 30 minutes, you can start leaving him there while you leave the house for short periods of time. Ignore the dog in the crate at least five minutes before you are due to leave and slip away quietly. Although you are not training your puppy to be comfortable alone necessarily, you do want them to feel as though the crate is their home. Once your puppy is extremely comfortable with the crate, you can confine her there while you are in the room. If she does, immediately reward the puppy with extreme praise, treats, love, play, and perhaps the ability to run free about your house for a little while. While it sounds silly, keeping a journal of the time that your puppy actually goes to the bathroom will help you out.
As your puppy continues to understand that she should use the bathroom outside and not inside, you can work towards eliminating the crate altogether and just take your puppy outside regularly.
To dogs, ammonia smells like urine, and thus these products can encourage increased use of a specific spot as a bathroom. Some dogs with protuberant eyes, such as Pekingese, have been known to hurt their eyes on sharp crate edges. Otherwise, you will create issues where the dog feels confined and trapped, seeing the crate as negative. When done correctly, crate training is beneficial to the dog and helps to decrease his stress.
Some are even made to look like furniture and can be used as a side table as well as a crate. This may be a high-traffic area where your family spends a lot of time, but you may also want to provide the dog with some rest time removed from activity, especially at night.
Play with the dog so he is tired, then put him in the crate, give him a treat to distract him, and shut the door. The pitfall with this is that if he becomes too used to being at your bedside he will kick up an even bigger fuss when you move him from the bedside to the crate. When your alarm goes off, take the puppy from the crate or box and pop him outside for a toilet break.
Keeping him restricted to the room that contains the crate will make it more likely that he will find and explore the crate on his own terms. Ideally, put a blanket that smells of his mother and littermates into the crate, so there's a reason for him to investigate. Each time he goes into the crate, drop what you are doing and give him lots of attention and encouragement. Therefore, you should not use the crate when you're away from the house until you have built up to a longer period of time.


If the dog whines, you have pushed too far too fast, and you should cut back a little next time. On your return, ignore him for several minutes before letting him out of the crate (when he is quiet). However, if you're planning on crate training to housebreak, you should start this process as soon as you bring your new puppy home. This is the feeling that will prevent your puppy from going to the bathroom inside the crate. Assuming you have a regular feeding schedule for your puppy, he'll also have a regular bathroom schedule.
Eventually, your puppy will understand that it is appropriate to use the bathroom outside and she will begin waiting for you to take her outside to eliminate. Many people punish a dog like mad for messing in the house, and then virtually ignore the good behavior when they eliminate outside. Many people take their pups for a walk, and as soon as they eliminate, they bring the dog home, thus sending the message that they are going home because the dog eliminated. Some dogs can be quiet, and stand at the door and look at it, some will let out a little yip, but others rely on you to see them standing at the door.
In addition, because the dog's instinct is not to soil his own nest, the crate is a great tool for housebreaking.
You don't want the dog chewing a lump off when he is left alone, swallowing a fragment and getting a bowel obstruction. Be aware, however, that any covering such as a blanket or towel can be pulled in through the sides of the crate and chewed up by a bored or anxious dog. Fit, healthy dogs do not need water overnight (the longest they will be left in the crate) unless the weather is very hot. Remember, the crate is not a prison where he goes when he's done something wrong, but a space where nice things happen and he goes because he feels safe there. If the dog only goes into the crate part way, put the food bowl as far in as he is comfortable with.
Not only does this help mitigate accidents in your house in the moment, but it will also reinforce the idea to your dog that going to the bathroom outside results in praise. This will mitigate the amount of accidents your puppy has before he is completely comfortable in his crate. Supervise your puppy at all times, and give him plenty of opportunities to use the bathroom outdoors.
If you want to start your walk right away, do not turn around and head home as soon as he poops. Adult dogs can wait longer, but if they are not housebroken, you may want to follow this guideline even for an older dog.
When the timing is completely consistent, you can let your puppy run supervised around your house for most of the day. Perhaps let the dog eat in the crate or give it a bone or toy to play with inside the crate with the door open.
This goes against the main principle of crate training, which is to create strong links between pleasant things and the crate. Close the puppy in the crate at regular one-to-two-hour intervals, and whenever he must be left alone, for up to three or four hours.
This is a general crate rule that applies to both puppies and adult dogs, not just when in training, but every single time you put a dog in a crate.



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