Manuel Sonnino, 22, is just one of the Jewish “Centurions” who work outside the Colosseum.  Marie Telling / Religio.

At first glance, the men in leather sandals, pleated tunics, and armored breastplates who pose with tourists at the Colosseum in Rome look like what they hope to be taken for: Roman centurions. Clustered in groups of two or three, these sword-brandishing would-be warriors have become a staple attraction on the ancient cobbled streets of Rome, where they animate the city’s history and pose for pictures with eager tourists. But what’s under the embroidered red sleeves of an astonishing number of them is a little more surprising: tattoos of Hebrew words, Stars of David, and Israeli flags.

By many estimates, well over half of the 40 or so street performers who work in and around the Colosseum are Jewish. Many are proud and practicing Jews. Some even claim to be descendants of the Jews who were enslaved or killed by Roman centurions—the real ones—two thousand years ago. But while the tattoos are there to stay, the centurions themselves might not be.

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Monk Massimo Coppo prays after taking communion. Marie Telling / Religio.

Massimo Coppo is a monk from Assisi. He came to the inauguration mass barefoot, wearing a habit that looked like it had seen several decades. He spent the mass beaming, singing and praying — ignoring the cameras directed at him. He was very enthusiastic about Pope Francis. “We are exalted in Assisi because his name is Francesco,” he said after the mass. “It means poverty, it means peace and it means taking care of creation. This is everything we need right now.”

Massimo Cotto came barefoot to the mass. Marie Telling / Religio.

Virginie Seguin

Viriginie Seguin under the French flag during the Inauguration mass. Marie Telling / Religio

Virginie Seguin came from Paris for the inauguration mass. She loved Benedict XVI and said his departure was wrenching, but she was impressed by Pope Francis’ first days. “I was very moved by his humility when he came out on the balcony for the first time and asked if we could pray for him,” she said.

Patricia Daste

Patricia Daste came from Buenos Aires for the inauguration mass. Marie Telling / Religio.

Patricia Daste came from Buenos Aires just for the inauguration mass. She arrived yesterday in Rome and will stay for only two days before going back to Argentina. Pope Francis used to be her archbishop. “He is a very humble man, a kind person who is very close to the poor and the lonely people,” she said.

Johnny Medina

Johnny Medina stopped in Rome to see Pope Francis on his way from Puerto Rico to Jerusalem. Marie Telling / Religio.

Johnny Medina had planned a trip to Jerusalem when he heard about Benedict XVI stepping down. He decided to stop on his way from Puerto Rico to the Holy Land to attend the inauguration mass. “I’m very happy that the pope is from Latin America and that he is a Spanish speaker,” he said. “It means a lot for us.”

Douglas Lilley

Douglas Lilley came from Norway for the inauguration mass. Marie Telling / Religio.

Douglas Lilley is a Canadian living in Norway. He came for the conclave and stayed for the inauguration mass. He liked Benedict XVI because “he kept the orthodox teachings of the Church.” But he thought Pope Francis will be more of a people’s pope, like John Paul II. “He is a servant of the heart,” he said.

Urs Heinz

Urs Heinz came from Switzerland for the inauguration mass. Marie Telling / Religio.

Urs Keinz came from Lugano in Switzerland with his clarinet and a crown of thorns, a gift he made for Pope Francis. He was at St. Peter’s Square in 2005 when Benedict XVI was elected pope. He understood Benedict’s decision to step down and now believes that Pope Francis will be “one of the greatest popes.”

A Woman cheers during Pope Francis’ first Angelus. Marie Telling / Religio.