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Working With Wood Veneers,woodworking plans for bar stools,small woodworking shop layout plans,woodworking tools atlanta ga - PDF Books

17.10.2015 admin
Applying wood veneer was once rumored to be a difficult task, reserved mainly for seasoned professionals.
Cut the substrate (the material that the veneer is actually applied to) to the exact finish size.
Select the most appealing section of the veneer pattern, which will be visible in the finished piece, keeping in mind that any excess will be trimmed. Center the selected pattern section over the substrate panel and apply the contact cement, following the manufacturer's instructions, to both the veneer and the substrate.
Using maximum pressure, roll the veneer smooth by starting in the center and working out toward the edges using a veneer roller. Still using maximum pressure, smooth the surface with a smoothing blade to verify that the veneer is completely adhered. Turn your piece upside down and use a razor knife to trim the excess veneer, using the edges of the substrate as your guide. One way to ensure the proper positioning is to cut a piece of waxed paper to the size of the veneer, leaving some excess on one side and placing it between the substrate and the veneer. If, after smoothing and re-rolling the veneer, you are still encountering bubbles, you can release any remaining trapped air by making small, subtle slits in the veneer.
Welcome to the second installment of our Working With Wood series, where I'm sharing my best tips for restoring wood furniture.


It's very common for antique and vintage furniture to have missing, chipped, or peeling veneer. Another way to repair unpainted veneer is to cut new veneer to size, glue it into the gaps, and stain to match the rest of the piece. Once it's dry, use your medium grit sandpaper (I used 180) to sand the filler level with the surrounding veneer. With your artist's brush, apply a base layer of stain in the lightest color to the patched area. Your patched area and the surrounding veneer will need a coat of two topcoat to give the piece a uniform finish to the piece and help to conceal the patched area. These days, since tools and supplies are readily available and many of the methods are so simple, even a novice woodworker can easily master the process.
This way, you can cut just the excess veneer with a razor knife and avoid damaging the finished product by using a table saw. The drawback of this is that you need to be perfectly accurate when aligning the veneer and substrate. In case you missed it, be sure to check out the first post in the series, my Essential Tips & Tricks for working with Gel Stain.
When furniture will be painted, lots of folks (myself included) remove the veneer entirely, or patch it with a filler product and paint over it - here's an example of how to do it.


It can work well for straight cuts, but on pieces with lots of jagged, awkward edges, it can be hard to cut the veneer to match exactly without creating more of a mess.
Press the grain of the sandpaper into the filler just a bit to mimic the texture and direction of the veneer's wood grain.
Allow each coat to dry completely, and add as many thin layers of stain as you need in one color to get a good match for the veneer before moving on to the next color. The goal with applying the next layer of darker stain is to try to mimic those colors in the patched area.
As with your lighter stain colors, apply as many coats as you need of one color before going on to a darker shade.
It's a great way to repair missing pieces of veneer without feeling like you have to paint your entire piece. There are as many techniques for application as there are varieties of veneer, but contact cement is commonly regarded as the most practical method. It can be a great solution for painted pieces, but not so much for those that will be left in their natural, wood state.



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