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20.02.2015 admin
There are companies out there, like Mirror Mate, who can make it super easy for you – but like the true DIY addicts that we are, we opted to try our hand at making this guy from scratch. I used my miter saw to cut my corners on an angle, but if you are miter-saw-less you can also do a simpler frame that’s kind of like this chalkboard frame that we built instead.
Another challenge of this project was to make the frame rest over the plastic clips that hold the mirror to the wall. I used a Dremel to make small grooves on all sides of my marked notch, just so I’d get a relatively clean edge.
Use a small drill bit to make some not-too-deep pilot holes, fairly close together (see, if all you have is a drill you’re cool). Once all of my notches (four in total) were made, I used my Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and then join my corners together.
Before painting it, we brought it inside to make sure it fit and looked square and everything. Fast forward about a day and I primed and painted the frame white (Decorator’s White by Benjamin Moore in semi-gloss, using a small foam roller for a smooth result). I’ve seen other folks do this project where they simply use some heavy duty caulk or construction adhesive to straight up stick their frame to the mirror itself.
And then just to make sure the bottom of the frame didn’t flap out or anything, we put a couple of dots of silicone caulk between the frame and the mirror just to hold it in place (we taped the frame down along the bottom until the caulk dried so it would hold it firmly for the long haul). When all was said and done caulked and dried, we just filled those two screw holes with wood putty and painted them so they weren’t obvious.
Even for a not-very-fancy frame, we’re pretty darn pleased with how it polished off that big unpolished beast in the room. And now, much like The Talking Dead takes a fond look back at each zombie who is killed (please tell me you guys watch that), we shall take a fond look back at the bathroom that greeted us when we moved in back in 2010 (sorry about the bad lighting, Sherry grabbed the picture right as we pulled up in the moving truck before we carried in about five million boxes).

You can also just use wood chisels to cut out the small sections of wood for the mirror clips if you don’t own a drill (and personally I think it is easier). The exact dimensions are not that important; however, it IS important that both long pieces are exactly the same lenght, and both shorter pieces are exactly the same length.
I used a lot of wood glue, pushed my pieces as close together as possible, and asked one of my boys to hammer in a couple of joiners across the seam. I put heavy books on it to make sure the corners all laid flat and left it to dry for a couple of hours. I stained it, then hated how it looked, so I sanded most of the stain off and just painted it instead. Then I just flipped the foam board over, center the print in the frame, and stapled the foam board right to the frame. You have fans in the UK here at ironmongeryOnline where we also blog about upcycling etc – these look great and would make a great gift too. Love this post, but a little confused how you got the measurements for the frame without mitered corners. Yep, I love how cheap this ends up being, especially if you’re making multiple frames.
After considering some more ornate moldings or window trim, we decided a flat chunky piece of wood would be best (and it’d match the chunky shelf nearby without competing too much with other more interesting items like our patterned window shade or the new vanity knobs).
This picture below gives you a better sense of how my unpretty notches will fit up against the clips (while still not being visible to anyone once the frame is in place). And weirdly enough, in person it makes the room feel taller since it somehow draws your eye up more than the frameless mirror used to. New mirror frame for a total of $14 and about three hours of time if you count all the building, chipping out notches, priming, and painting.

I really want to make another one and pick a better stain, though, because I think that could be gorgeous.
When I want to change the print, it’s easy to pop the staple out, take the print off the foam board, and tape a new one in, with no damage to the print or frame.
I need frames for these gorgeous pictures I have for my bathroom and I don’t want to spend a crazy ton of money. So first I marked where I need to notch out the wood so that the clips would rest inside and the wood could lay flush against the mirror. Oh, and this one goes along the bottom of the frame which is why my notch won’t be seen even though it goes all the way to the edge of the wood. So when we measured and cut our frame we made sure it overlapped the top edge of the mirror (the only edge without a wall, the counter, or some tile in its way). Your idea will allow me to make unique, original frames and it’ll be extremely cost effective. That meant I could drive a couple of screws through the frame and into the wall without being anywhere near the mirror to make sure the frame wouldn’t come crashing down on us. When cutting your pieces, remember that the short side (inside) of each board should be about an inch shorter than the height or width of your print. I figured it couldn’t be too hard to make my own using a $5 pine board from Home Depot.

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    The wooden pieces are already the exact the.
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