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02 Feb. 1979

Woodturning chuck jaws,outdoor wood boiler reviews 2015,tenon jig plans pdf - For Outdoors

The Longworth chuck was developed in the late 1980’s by Leslie Douglas Longworth of the Hunter Valley Woodturners in Australia. Once the faceplate is attached to the disks put it on your lathe and turn the disks perfectly round, removing as little wood as possible to maximize the size of the chuck.
Because of the size and weight of the chuck, and also because I am just using it to finish off a bottom of a piece I usually use it with a speed of between 500 and 600 rpms, though I have had it as high as 750 rpms. Also, the April 2010 issue of Woodturning magazine has an excellent tutorial which I followed pretty much verbatim. Sometimes on budget chucks the scroll is pulled round using tommy bars to open and close the jaws. On better chucks there are small pinions or bevel gears which engage with gear teeth on the reverse of the scroll.
The other picture shows a Patriot chuck with one dovetail jaw removed to show the mounting jaw at A. At B you can see on the cut surface of the jaw section that the jaws are angled like a dovetail inside and out. Scroll chucks designed for woodturning have four jaws (metal turning ones are generally three jaw) so it is possible to grip square section wood.

You might imagine that all that is necessary with any chuck is to push the piece of wood into the chuck jaws and tighten up. Engineering metal gripping jaws do not work at all well on wood because the jaws would crush into the material long before they generate enough friction to grip securely - see the first diagram here. The chuck jaws have a dovetail on the outside so that they can be expanded to grip the inside of a dovetail shape recess in the base of a bowl. The faceplate will be permanent so you need to get one specifically for the Longworth chuck.
Wood is a weak, soft material compared to metal and, to grip it securely, the chuck jaws must clamp over a large surface area. When the scroll is rotated, all four jaws slide inwards or outwards in unison in their Tee slots so they are always concentric. To grip properly the jaws must be wider to fit all round the surface of the wood (middle diagram). Very good article by the way, a little hidden gem in the midst of a google search for ‘homemade chuck’! Better yet, if you turn a tenon on the faceplate you could simply chuck it instead of threading it on to the lathe’s spindle.

So for maximum grip you have to turn the spigot (a short tenon or projection) to the correct diameter and dovetail angle to suit the jaws of your chuck. Then I tighten the wing-nuts and follow this up with more tightening using a wrench when the chuck is mounted on the lathe. However, one thing to keep in mind is that these types of chucks are primarily used to finish the bottom of a project and not for any heavy turning. The picture shows the dovetail spigot being cut with a beading tool (square section chisel)Of course if you do not need maximum grip you need not be that fussy and the jaws will grip short cylinders and squares without any preparation if you take care not to take heavy cuts.
A fellow turning club member is wanting to get together with me to build a couple Longworth chucks so maybe we’ll find some suitably flat material.

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