04 Aug. 1986|
Wood router cutting direction,woodworking king size bed,saw cutting wood video - For Begninners
If you constantly wonder which way to feed your router into a workpiece, you better read this.
Routing a groove (a with-the-grain cut in the middle of a board or piece of plywood) in the wrong direction can be dangerous. Routing outside edges and edges on the cutout in the middle of a workpiece isn't all that different from routing straight cuts.
As shown below, when you feed a router in the "typical" (counter-clockwise) direction, the bit's cutting edges lift the grain of the workpiece.
Climb cutting takes a little getting used to, so practice this technique with small router bits and scrap softwood. When you climb cut, your router will want to run away from you, so hold on firmly with both hands. Although you get little splintering with a climb cut, it still makes sense to follow the traditional wisdom of routing the ends of a workpiece before routing the edges.
Under many circumstances, it still makes sense to feed a router in a counter-clockwise direction.
Always remember to feed a workpiece in the typical right-to-left direction when using a router table.
However, if you have the luxury of owning a power feeder mounted to your router table or shaper, climb cutting produces silky smooth moldings with these stationary tools.
With manufactured materials such as Corian or medium-density fiberboard (MDF), there's no advantage to climb cutting. When edge routing, it's easy to see which way the router bit spins so that you can feed against its rotation. Looking down at the top of a hand-held router, the bit rotates clockwise, as shown in the drawing below left. Such is the case with climb cutting--the practice of running a handheld router in a clockwise motion around the edge of a workpiece.
But, in a climb cut, the bit pulls the grain down as its cutting edges enter the workpiece. And climb cutting has a burnishing effect on the wood, leaving an exceptionally smooth routed surface. Simply set the bit to its full cutting depth and remove a little more stock with each cutting pass. That's because the power feeder controls the workpiece for a rock-steady cut, and your hands never come close to the cutting edges.
You'll be surprised at how quickly you can rout edges, and how much control you have over this freehand process provided you take light cuts. This tendency to hug whatever you guide the router against serves you well when it's essential that the router not wander off course. That's because the router table enables you to do things you can't do with a hand-held router. For example, when cutting a dado or the groove for holding a tambour door in the example right, the cut must exactly follow its guiding edge. Here are some simple guidelines to help you know which way to feed your router for any task. If you rout grooves with a straightedge instead of an edge guide, clamp it to the workpiece at 12 o'clock.