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07 Sep. 1997

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The first time I used a power planer, I was remodeling an old house and needed to level several sagging, uneven ceiling joists to prepare them for new drywall (Photo 1). Work safely above your head by placing walk planks between two ladders, in line with the direction you'll be making your cuts.
Power planers are timesavers that have found their niche with such varied tasks as edge-smoothing and leveling framing lumber and chamfering handrails and posts (Photo 2).
Begin by resting the front shoe of the planer flat on the wood without letting the blade touch the work.


Start the tool, let the motor reach full speed, then ease the plane into contact with the work and push it steadily forward. Balance hand pressure between the tool handle and front knob as both planer soles contact the work. Ensure this no-gap fit by carefully shaving to the wall scribe mark and angling the planer slightly to cut more wood off the backside of the board than is cut off the front. The gauge, with its built-in scale settings, turns back and forth to move the front planer shoe up or down, setting the depth of the cut.


As blades dull, they smoke up the room, the planer becomes difficult to push, and wood debris comes out as sawdust instead of shavings. Like a jointer, the planer has blades mounted on a cutter head or drum that spins at 20,000 rpm, removing wood equal to the difference in elevation between the front and rear shoes.


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