03 Jul. 1989|
Wood finishing techniques shellac,corner tv cabinet plans free,tools for carving wood signs,diy cnc plans download - Reviews
American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014.
An acquaintance of mine, Jim Oliver, at my Baltimore Area Turners wood turning club mentioned one evening at our show-and-tell that he liked the kind of finish he got with the Beal Buffing system. I have been seeing ads for this buffing system in woodworking catalogs but never paid too much attention.
My brother-in-law and his family gave me a gift certificate to my favorite local Woodcraft Store and I blew that whole thing on a Beal Buffing System. To back up a bit, I have experimented with a number of wood finishing techniques and have finally settled on what works for me. I read somewhere that if you use a de-waxed shellac that it is compatible with any kind of finish over the top of it.
After going through the sanding steps and ending with 400 grit paper I would spray the surface with the shellac and allow it to dry. Different builders will begin finishing their instruments at different times, and during different stages of construction.
Choosing a finish for a musical instrument brings up a lot of the same issues that we have encountered when we were choosing a glue – the things that work for common woodworking tasks may not be ideal for instruments. Taking into account the hardness of the finish, many woodworkers will immediately think of polyurethane: after all, it is frequently touted as one of the hardest, and most durable of all wood finishes. The same psaltery after only one coat of shellac has been applied – the wood comes alive! He passed around a bowl with a very lovely finish like I had not been able to achieve in my wood working products. Because of the huge surface area of the finish, especially on the critical soundboard area, one important question arises when considering finishes – one that never comes up with other woodworking projects.
Shellac can really give mixed results because of one big drawback: once shellac is mixed, it has a short shelf-life. While the terms varnish, polyurethane, lacquer and shellac are commonly used to reference a final finish in general, these products are not the same, nor are they recommended to be used interchangeably. Accordingly, a lot of the pre-mixed shellac that you buy off the shelf can give poor results because it has been sitting in a store for months – if not years.
Wait a little longer between each finishing step than the manufacturer suggests to ensure that everything is cured, otherwise it may cost you a lot more time down the road. Finishes that are only rubbed into the wood tend to be softer, and offer less protection than film-building finishes.
Polyurethane is widely available at just about any hardware, woodworking, or general store. It dries fairly hard (for an oil finish) and can be built up to a film on the wood surface.