11 May. 1987|
Teak oil on varnished wood,how to build a bridge with popsicle sticks,window box plans pdf,outdoor wood table design - Try Out
A couple of coats of Amazon teak oil makes this teak deck shine, but without making the surface smooth and slippery like varnish or Cetol would. Back in the early ’90s, boaters had only a few choices when it came to protecting their exterior wood—traditional varnish, oils, or pigmented sealers.
They don’t tend to protect for long, and the color varieties they come in are anything but natural or wood-like in their appearances. With spring in the air, the idea of relaxing in the cockpit of your boat with a refreshing drink while admiring an expanse of nicely maintained teak sounds inviting. A pure or polymerized tung oil finish is easy to use and will produce beautiful results on any type of wood, inside or out. Other types of existing finishes, such as varnish, must be removed, as tung oil is a penetrating oil. Exterior wood surfaces should be cleaned with water and a scrub brush to remove any residual stains or finishes.
Linseed oil in produced for the US market have not had the proteins cleaned out of them, thus when the pesticides they add gas off, the oil will grow mold. Linseed oil has been a painting medium for hundreds of years, it is the reason we still have the master's paintings to view.
Either method is perfectly acceptable, the beauty of oiling the wood first is that the oil will penetrate much deeper than the thinned varnish, especially if the oil is gently warmed before application. I should like to state, that, contrary to ideas that I have never heard of before, I never use oil or CPES under varnish. The method of varnish application, I mentioned, has served me well, with no failures what so ever since I first started swinging a brush in 1949. For a different opinion, I've been using oil under varnish for almost 50 years and my varnish jobs last as long as any others. I wet sand raw, open-grained wood like mahogany with a boat soup of 60-40 linseed-turpentine with pine tar and Japan Drier added. What kills varnish is UV light and seasonal wood movement, not what's beneath it providing it is compatible chemically.
I always rub out varnish after curing for a silky-smooth feel and semi-gloss appearance, too. In our last blog entry about exterior marine wood finishes, we covered the basics regarding traditional varnishes. That said, I have seen them used to nice effect on toe rails and other large pieces of exterior trim such as sportfish cockpit cap rails, which receive a lot of abrasive wear that varnish or Cetol might not stand up to. Tung oil finishes are usually applied to unfinished wood, but they can be used over oil based stains. This finish does not build a film like varnish, so you need to do most of the sanding before any tung oil finish is applied. Remove light scratches with a light sanding and the addition of another coat of tung oil finish.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. That is for the purpose of getting it to soak in and bond with the wood and the following coats.
In this installment, we’ll discuss some other choices—oils, sealers, and a sort of hybrid coating that mimics some characteristics of varnish, but without all the application work.
They’re generally a concoction of linseed and tung oils mixed with UV stabilizers that protect the wood by keeping moisture out and minimizing sun damage. The way sealers work is by leaving behind a protective coating of solids on the wood after the carrier solvents evaporate away.
Most boat owners eventually find themselves unhappy with either look and decide that some treatment is essential.Paint provides the longest lasting protection but it hides the wood. Perhaps the biggest advantage with Cetol is that it doesn’t require the tedious sanding between coats like varnish does. Takes a few days to dry but the pine tar darkens the natural wood color a wee bit and the congealed linseed provides a nice sparkle to the pores in the sunlight.
With Cetol, you prep the wood, and then apply a minimum of three coats, making sure you wait at least 24 hours between coats—that’s it. That said, oils are great if you have only a few pieces of trim that you want to keep up, or for wood surfaces such as teak decks, where varnish or Cetol aren’t a good idea because of traction concerns. The choices are oil, sealer, or varnish.CleaningBefore teak can be given any coating, it must be completely clean.
Your expensive teak is literally dissolved by strong cleaners, so always use the mildest cleaner that does the job. Leave it on the wood for several minutes to give the detergent time to suspend the dirt and the bleach time to lighten the wood, then rinse the wood thoroughly, brushing it to clear the grain.If the teak is still dark or stained when it dries, a cleaner with oxalic acid is required.
I use Jet Speed varnish for the first two coats and the next being the owners chosen brand. No such problems if you just pick a good spar varnish, thin the first coats, and keep going. Rinse the scrubbed wood thoroughly--brushing is required--and let it dry completely.Two-part teak cleaners are dramatically effective at restoring the color to soiled, stained, and neglected teak, but these formulations contain a strong acid--usually hydrochloric--and should only be used when gentler cleaning methods have failed. The cleaner will dissolve natural bristles, so use a nylon brush to paint part one onto the wet wood. Remove the dissolved surface by scrubbing the wood with the grain with a stiff brush or a Scotchbrite pad.Part two neutralizes the acid in part one, and it usually has some additional cleaning properties. Paint a sufficient amount of part two onto the teak to get a uniform color change, then scrub lightly. Flush away all traces of the cleaner and let the wood dry.OilOiling teak on boats is a time-honored tradition.
Oil intensifies the colors and grain patterns of wood and gives the wood a rich, warm appearance.
Because it simply enhances the inherent beauty of the wood--more like salt than sauce--oiling is arguably the most attractive of all wood finishes, and it restores some of the teak's natural oils and resins.
The sorry truth is that teak will last just as long if you don't oil it--longer really, since repeated between-coat scrubbing wears the wood away.
Tung oil doesn't darken the wood, and it is more water resistant than linseed oil--a notable advantage for boat use. However, a month or two after application, it may be hard to discern that much difference since both oils carbonize in the sun and turn dark. Proprietary teak oils address this problem with various additives, including pigments, UV filters, and mildew retardants. If you are going to oil your teak, make your teak oil selection based on the recommendations of other boatowners in your area.Apply teak oil with a paint brush. Immediately wipe up (with a spirits-dampened cloth) any drips or runs on fiberglass or painted surfaces, or the resins the oil contains will leave dark, nearly-impossible-to-remove stains. The wood will initially "drink" the oil, and thinning the first coat about 20% with mineral spirits or turpentine encourages it to penetrate the wood more deeply.
The wood should have a matte finish without any shiny spots.SealersAnother approach to achieving a natural look is the application of a sealer. Durability and ease of application have made some sealers very popular with boat owners.Sealers don't feed the wood but, as the name suggests, they seal out moisture and dirt, and seal in natural oils and resins.
Unfortunately, the oils and resins may already be lost, so the first step in applying a sealer to old teak is to restore the oil content with a thorough application of teak oil. Now wait at least two weeks to let the resins dry before you apply the sealer.After two weeks, wash the wood and let it dry completely. Sealers need an oil-free surface to attach to, so wipe the wood heavily with a rag soaked in acetone to remove all oil from the surface.
Wood coated with varnish will not dry out and split, will not absorb moisture and rot, is unaffected by dirt and pollution, and will be untouched, thus unstained, by oily or greasy spills.The absence of pigment in varnish means it does not shield the underlying surface from the sun. Ultraviolet radiation penetrates the coating and carbonizes the oils in the wood, causing the wood to darken beneath the varnish. To minimize this effect, varnish makers add ultraviolet inhibitors--sun screens--to their products. For exterior brightwork, select a quality spar varnish (not urethane varnish) heavily fortified with UV inhibitors.
As always, get local recommendations from other boatowners before selecting a specific varnish.Teak doesn't hold varnish as well as other woods due to its oil content, but a long-lasting coating is possible with the right technique.
You may not get that perfect, mirror-like finish on your first try, but as long as the wood is ivory smooth, the weather is warm and dry, and you don't "worry" the varnish with too many brush strokes, you should get admirable results.