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26 Jul. 1982

Scraping plane insert,metric toy box plans,arbor plans with swing,wood veneer suppliers san francisco - Test Out

The Veritas Scraping Plane is used for the final levelling and smoothing of large, flat surfaces, even if they are highly figured, prior to applying a finish. Given the fine cutting action of the scraping plane, it is used after the surface has been prepared as well as possible with a smoothing plane, not in place of the smoothing plane.
At first glance the scraping plane, or indeed even scraping itself, can appear odd or mysterious. Sharpening the scraping blade is the most critical and difficult part of learning to use a scraping plane. The body of the Veritas scraping plane is ductile cast iron and comes treated with rust preventative. We recommend that you initially, then periodically, apply a light coat of oil to seal out moisture and prevent rusting; this also has the added bonus of acting as a lubricant for smoother planing. If storage conditions are damp or humid, planes should, in addition to the treatment outlined above, be wrapped in a cloth or stored in a sack.
Long-time toolmaker Paul Hamler has developed a new device that can turn many handplanes (both vintage and new) into a scraping plane that is easier to set up, tune and use than any other scraping plane I’ve used. I’ve been working with a pre-production version of this scraping insert , which simply replaces the frog on your plane , for about three weeks now. In fact, one of the first questions is why bother with this scraping insert when there’s another one available from Lee Valley Tools. The insert fits into the wide-bodied Bailey-pattern and Bed Rock-pattern planes made by Stanley , the Nos. To install the insert you remove the entire frog assembly of your plane and replace it with Hamler’s device.
Intuitive Controls The way you adjust Hamler’s scraping insert is truly ingenious and improves upon more than 100 years of doing things the hard way. But About That Length…¦ The other curious aspect of the insert is that Hamler made it for (and demonstrates it in) a jointer plane body. Another objection that some woodworkers might make is that you can convert a bench plane, HNT Gordon plane or bevel-up plane to a scraping plane using various tricks (such as large back bevels, turning the iron over or honing a very steep secondary bevel).

Because it has the same configuration as a bench plane, it is comfortable to use for extended periods of time and the large sole ensures the surface of a workpiece is accurately flattened. What the scraping plane does replace, however, is the need for sanding prior to applying a finish. The beauty of the Veritas scraping plane is that you can either change the pitch of the blade or apply camber to it in order to obtain the best possible cutting action. The cutting geometry of the rolled edge on the scraping blade is not that much different from the cutting geometry of a bench plane with a well-set cap iron. An angle of 20° or more will result in too much scraping and not enough cutting (producing dust, not shavings).
Typically, I’d try to deal with a top first with a jointer plane, then a high-angle smooth plane, then a card scraper to deal with localized tear-out, then sandpaper to blend the planed and scraped surfaces together. Because the scraping plane cuts the wood fibers rather than tears them, it will further bring out the wood grain, rather than mute it as sandpaper would.
When making larger changes to the blade angle, be sure to reset the blade flush with the bottom to avoid moving the cutting edge too far below the sole of the plane. For corroded plane bodies, we recommend you first remove the rust with a fine rust eraser, then treat as described above.
Some readers might even wonder why anyone should spend money on a scraping plane when a card scraper can be had for $7 to do the same job.
The interesting answer is that the Veritas Scraping Plane Insert was invented by Hamler (he, Leonard Lee and John S. With the Hamler insert I can go from jointer plane to jointer scraper to a bit of hand sanding. Use the scraping plane blade like a hand scraper to find the angle that produces the smoothest scraping action. Another technique you can use to set the initial blade projection is to place a single sheet of paper under the toe of the plane and set the cutting edge of the blade so that it is just resting on the work surface. Sighting along the sole of the plane, begin to tighten the thumbscrew in small increments that will put a slight curve in the blade.

You adjust the cut of a traditional scraping plane by pitching the scraper backward and forward. So you can flatten the top with a jointer plane and then follow up with a jointer-sized scraper with no problem. So, as the blade wears, you can tilt it forward, making it possible to keep scraping without having to stop and re-burnish the blade. At this point, if the plane is no longer producing shavings, the blade must be resharpened and the frog adjusted back to the 5° starting point. Hamler says he thought the design and materials of the original could be improved upon and so he developed this new insert and is producing and selling it himself. In other words, just skip the smoothing plane when the deck is stacked against you and go right to the scraper plane. Plus, the Hamler insert can hold scrapers of different thicknesses so you can choose a thick one for aggressive work or a thin one for light cuts in tricky burls.
It works and feels much more like using a bench plane than the torture device that is the No. Plus, the longer plane will result in a flatter surface than a shorter plane or the washboarding that comes with a card scraper in inexperienced hands. Insert the blade with the bevel facing the rear of the plane and the cutting edge resting on the work surface.
Lightly hold the blade in place against the frog and tighten the lever cap knob (a quarter turn should be ample do not overtighten) to secure the blade.

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