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02 May. 2000

How to make a tool rest for wood lathe,how to build cube shelves videos,how to make wood storage bench,furniture making designs - PDF Review

A minor inconvenience is that when grinding different tools at the same time, the platform angle may have to be changed, which means the wheel has to come to a stop for the angle to be reset accurately. CBN (cubic boron nitride) grinding wheels are said to have advantages for grinding woodturning tools. The grinding angle is quite obtuse, like a scraper, and the tool looks like a scraper, but is not used like one. Its cutting action is like that of a traditionally ground bowl gouge, with the wing close to the wood surface. To make a better job of it, I stacked a couple of insulating refractory bricks, also obtainable from Ebay, to make a little hearth. Then I turned an ash dowel to be a snug fit in the tool rest holder (banjo), and made a 25 mm x 25 mm tenon on one end.
A screw is often supplied with ordinary jaw chucks so they can be used as screw chucks for bigger items, but they are usually large. I have a homemade heavy duty ball turning jig that I built years ago to fit my Graduate lathe. There you can see my work, buy great gifts, and find lots more information about woodturning, including pages on tool sharpening, bowl troubleshooting, finishing methods and more. With the angle set, the tool simply rests on the platform while the grinder does its stuff. The method often recommended for setting the platform angle is to match it to the existing tool bevel, inking the bevel where it touches the wheel for greater precision. I removed some small burrs from the old wheel bushes that made them too tight for the new wheel. This makes grinding easier as there is less tendency for careless use to allow a gouge held in a grinding jig to fall off the side.
This time, the cutter and the end of the bar were resting on the firebrick surface instead of being in free air. For a long time I have used a 2HP cyclone system with four felt tube filters hanging from a homemade plywood distribution box. A wooden post is held upright by standing it in a bucket of loose gravel on the floor behind the headstock. Possible improvements might be to make the arm telescopic and adjustable for height, but at present it seems fine as it is. My extractor hose is there at the lathe and works quite well in its normal position, but would probably be better with the intake under the sanding table closer to the downward dust stream.
Many turners use a screw chuck, which is a single-screw faceplate, for small items because it is so quick and easy.
I’ve always made a point of saving odds and ends of metal that may come in handy for jobs like this. The process is extremely simple, and platform sharpening is the best method I know for scrapers, skew chisels and square-ended gouges (some people hone the tools to refine the edge, but most probably use them straight from the grinder). I find the sound of the grind when the wheel is turned by hand more helpful than the ink – when just the heel or the edge is in contact with the wheel, the sound is harsher and more grating than when the bevel rests properly on the wheel.


You need a light touch on the grinding wheel, which is not easy if you are holding the tool firmly in place on the platform. I did that by holding the steel bushes in my woodturning chuck and skimming them very lightly with a graver. As the abrasive layer is very thin, it is not possible to true it up with a diamond dressing tool, as could be done with a conventional wheel. To make things more manageable, I recently fitted mobile bases to some of the equipment, including some big racks I built for materials and part-finished work. The second and third were pairs of rollers of the kind used for kitchen appliances, which I put under the bandsaw and the router table.
The simplest construction is a square of plywood for the item to stand on, secured in place, with a caster under each corner. Some turners use scrapers like that, but only if the tool is turned on its side, never flat on the rest as that could cause a severe dig-in.
But the shape of the fluteless gouge puts the shaft nearly perpendicular to the wood surface, reducing any tendency to vibration.
The tip had been stuck on only by the melted flux, because the steel bar had not been hot enough for the brazing metal to run under the tip. I had a 7 inch pipe running across the ceiling with smaller branches to the lathes, bandsaw and drill press. I cut a hole in the sheet metal of the lower stand and bolted on a flanged adaptor for a 5 inch hose. The suction falls off very rapidly with distance, and has to compete with air movement caused by the spinning wood or sander.
I pressed it face down under weights for a few minutes to get a good bond, trimmed the surplus, then applied the loop-backed sanding disc. I think long jaws with a parallel grip are best for the job as they give good support to the wood. Rests of different lengths are always useful and a short one is handy when you have something held in a chuck with tailstock support and don’t have room for a long one.
A lot of chisels are sold with raw, sharp edges and are almost unusable until they have been fettled, as well as damaging the toolrest. The platform can also be used for other gouges once the knack of simultaneously swinging and twisting the gouge is learned. The tools were sharp after this, but I can’t say they were sharper than the old ruby wheel achieved. In one way, this is helpful as I can sharpen small tools as the grinder is running down, the equivalent of a slow-speed machine. They were less successful as they only roll forwards and backwards and tend to get out of position. For most purposes they don’t need to be braked, unless perhaps the floor is super-smooth and clean, or sloping (wedges can be slipped underneath to lock the item in place).
As the extractor has a 7 inch inlet, I decided to extend the full size duct right to the lathe.


It’s easy to get the inlet close enough for small spindles, but for faceplate work and larger spindles it can be difficult. The post has a projecting arm at about the height of the lathe spindle, at the end of which is a wooden cradle to support the hose, which hangs down from above. It needed a new clamping plate and guide block to hold it in place on the bed, and the tool holder had to be raised by about 75 mm or so. And they don’t make the tools too wobbly, though a vibrating lathe or a mobile workbench would need to be wedged carefully. I used a reciprocating saw to cut a length of 30 mm mild steel bar for the stem, sawing it at an angle.
The sturdy tool rest and firm grip on the blank seems to eliminate vibration and made the cutting effortless. An alternative to a platform for large tools is to use a long arm jig that supports the end of the handle only.
I would rather take it slower when reshaping a tool and have a more gentle and controllable grind when sharpening.
If the platform angle is always the same, any one tool placed on it will always be ground the same, although the bevel angles may not be the same on different tools because the edge of a thicker tool will be higher on the wheel. The wheel creates fewer sparks than the old wheel, which might make it a little harder to judge when the grinding is complete.
Although the grinding angle is obtuse, the wood coming onto the slicing edge sees it as very sharp. I can pull the arm to turn the bucket to any position, or slide the bucket to move the inlet along the lathe bed. This positions the retaining screw, which is also the axis of rotation, directly below the lathe spindle axis, and the jig can slide to any position along the bed. I think the screw fixing is easiest for most purposes, but the single bolt might be needed if fixing to angle iron.
The weight of the gravel keeps the bucket and post firmly in position but it is not heavy enough to make adjustment difficult. If they are wide, the points are easy to keep clear of the wood, so the risk of catches is minimal. All I had to do was make a steel post the same size to fit on the jig, then I could transfer the clamp back and forth as needed.
I turned one end of a bit of steel bar to size in the Atlas, but because my even more ancient large three-jaw chuck is in poor condition I could not reverse it to make the other end match accurately. I turned about two thirds of the bar’s length to size, reversed it in the chuck and turned the rest a little oversize (and noticeably eccentric). I then transferred it to my four jaw chuck on the Graduate and did the rest of the turning by hand using a scraper, finishing with a smooth file.


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