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23 Jan. 1996

How to glue wood veneer to plastic,custom hand plane makers,powermatic wood lathe for sale,wood carving 3d models - .

When it comes to high quality, flexible wood veneer sheets and wood edgebanding you have choices at WiseWood Veneer.
When your project calls for all wood veneer sheets 2-Ply wood backed veneer is the product for you. WiseWood Veneer is pleased to offer our reconstituted veneer as an environmentally friendly alternative to some of the more rare and expensive exotic wood species. WiseWood wood veneer edgebanding is the perfect compliment and finishing touch on your veneered panels and edges.
One gallon of glue should cover between 175 and 225 square feet of substrate material which is roughly both sides of three 4x8's. Veneers have a tendency to curl up quickly when they are placed upon a glue-prep'd substrate. Note: Once under vacuum, the blue tape really sticks well to the veneer so removal can be tricky.
A good test to see if you have applied the correct amount of glue is to place a pencil mark on the substrate and apply the glue. Flash Time - The amount of time you need to wait before setting the veneer onto the glued substrate.
Open Time - The amount of time between when you apply the glue and when the material is placed in the press. Pot Life - The length of time in which a glue can be used after it is mixed (PPR's are mixed with water. Yellow glue (PVA) is probably the first glue that comes to mind when you say "glue" to a woodworker. Iron-on veneering is the latest craze in woodworking because it's easy, convenient, and inexpensive.
Contact cement is only good for paperbacked veneers and 2 ply wood veneers because the backing minimizes the veneer movement.
To the best of my knowledge, the most user-friendly adhesive for an outdoor project is Ultra-Cat™ veneer glue. If you are planning to use a raw wood veneer, you may not find an adhesive specifically made to bond to plexiglass, glass, or plastic.
Paperbacked veneers can often be succesfully bonded to these substrates if you order the veneer with the PSA (or pressure sensitive adhesive) option.
A few woodworkers have sent me email indicating success only with paperbacked veneer and solvent based contact cement (water-based contact cements will not work). For premixed veneer glues such as Better Bond Cold Press Adhesive and Heat Lock, your nose will tell you the condition of the veneer glue.
When powdered veneer glues such as Ultra-Cat PPR are past their shelf life, you'll notice that the powder is lumpy and sometimes crystalized. With a cold press glue, the bond is set inside the vacuum bag when the air inside the pores of the veneer and the substrate is displaced by the adhesive. There really is no easy way to remove veneer that has been applied with common veneer adhesives. The problem with solid wood is that it will expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes in the house.
If you are using a burl veneer that has some voids, it's best to use a veneer glue that matches the color of the wood cells around the voids which are frequently darker than the rest of the veneer.
If the substrate surface is porous, a PPR glue (such as Ultra-CAT™) is ideal because it cures rock-hard and it's moisture and heat resistant.
Veneer pros discuss vacuum bag and other techniques for making veneer conform to a three-dimensional surface like the gauge panel of a Jaguar automobile dashboard. I seem to remember a Fine Woodworking article about applying veneer on a demilune table and having the veneer wrap around the curved table edge. Contributor J, you have a good memory, as your description of how it was done in that FWW article is pretty close to how I did it.
By the way, the veneer I used on that table in the article was birdseye maple, which works fairly well. I would go in a spiral pattern, as you shouldn't be able to bend the veneer, but little by little you can achieve this look.
If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum.

We offer a wide variety of flexible veneers for almost any budget, application or purely aesthetic value. It’s also a great option for those projects where veneer color and consistency is critical from start to finish.
Quality wood veneers are expertly joined to create continuous rolls of ready to use trim to finish off unsightly edges.
Wood veneer is a versatile, organic material that reacts to changes in environmental conditions.
If you have a vacuum press and the substrate material for your project is porous, then certainly a cold press veneer glue is ideal.
For those woodworkers who dont have a vacuum press, there are several options which can yield exceptional results. Veneer softener won't work and sometimes spritzing the top surface with water creates problems in and of itself. The rule of thumb is that the surface of the substrate should look evenly painted with veneer glue.
If you can barely see the pencil mark on the substrate (through the adhesive), you have the right amount of glue. For standard cold press veneer glue, this term is not used because the veneer can be placed onto the panel immediately after the glue is applied. Despite the recommendations of many woodworkers, I have never found yellow glue to be suitable for veneering. Some users have reported excellent results using TC-20™ copper adhesive for bonding backed veneers to some types of non-ferrous metals. If it smells moderately funky (but tolerable), the glue is probably close to the end of its shelf life. Ultra-Cat veneer glue is urea resin glue which has a reactive affect when mixed with water. The nature of the veneer glue is to make an exceptionally strong bond thereby making it very difficult to remove a veneer intentionally.
When a solid wood substrate is needed, you'll find that quartersawn lumber is ideal since it has less seasonal movement than flat cut lumber. Generally speaking, it is preferable to go with a darker tone if you have both light and dark colors in your veneer.
True bleed-through that comes through a clear (non-void) part of a veneer is usually caused by using too much glue and in that case, it really doesnt matter which tone you use because any bleed-through of that nature will not look good.
After gluing up the core and veneer with epoxy and bagging the part, the guy sucked out a good volume of air, then stopped the pump. The veneer could be almost flat with a pile of molded resin on top of it to give it that 3D look. I have some fleece backed bamboo veneer, but I'm sure it's not the same thing as this is thick and would break easily.
The thing I would add to what you said is to wipe the veneer with a wet sponge in the area where the veneer has to do the three dimensional bending. I have 10 years experience in automotive wood trim manufacture, both at Bentley and currently at Rolls-Royce. This is an excellent alternative to traditional laminate backed veneer which is stiff and more susceptible to breaking or splitting.
The perpendicular grain between the two layers adds stability and flexibility to the veneer sheet and the extra thickness helps to protect against substrate telegraphing. Made with fast growing renewable natural wood sources, reconstituted veneer is produced by laminating different colors of dyed veneer in alternating layers. If the material is non-porous (such as glass, plexiglass, plastic, or metal), you may find it difficult to bond veneer to your project. This type of glue never fully hardens, and thus allows the veneer to "creep" or move during seasonal changes in humidity. Wood veneer is just as prone to seasonal movement as regular lumber and the ability of veneer to expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes is greater than the strength of the contact cement bond.
In some cases, you may be able to heavily sand the panel to remove the veneer and adhesive. With a little practice and patience I think almost anyone could successfully veneer the dashboard shown in this post.

The way we do it, using unbacked 0.5mm thick veneer, is either by a die pressing method which uses a high pressure die press and corresponding male and female tools, or using a membrane pressing method which uses a liquid glue and a lower temperature than the die press, which is around 140°C.
This is standard thickness wood veneer which folds down perfectly into the circular gauge bevels with almost no cracking. Lay thin strips of wood across the glued surface of the ply, then position your veneer on top of the wooden lats. The all wood construction of wood on wood sheets also helps to camouflage edge lines giving your project a cleaner appearance.
For professionals and non-professionals alike, you won’t find an easier more trouble free solution to almost any wood veneering project. This process produces natural looking wood grains and colors thought only to exist in nature… until now.
Each kit comes complete with a sheet(s) of peel and stick veneer, hot melt adhesive edge banding, a veneer scraper, a snap off blade utility knife, and other useful accessories.
When you receive your veneer it needs to acclimatize to conditions in your environment to reach equilibrium. Ultra-Cat can be used for wood to wood bonding and is especially useful for bent laminations because it dries rock-hard and minimizes spring back.
And because of its thin consistency, yellow glue also has a tendency to bleed through and discolor the veneer. I have tried every contact cement I can find and nothing offers the permanent bond required by a raw wood veneer.
So if you purchase veneer glue, keep in mind that it could go bad even if you never open the container. However, if the glue smells extremely offensive and has a thick, lumpy, or oily feel, then it is past its life and should be discarded. Ultra-Cat veneer glue generally is the easiest to sand off because it doesn't gum up sand paper as much as other adhesives. The key here is the fleece backing and the flexing, which allows the veneer to conform to these various curves without breaking. You are also right that burls do this better than regular grained wood, especially walnut burl. There should be around 15% moisture content in the veneer, and burr veneers work more readily than straight grain veneers, which tend just to split.
PSA veneer is ideal for cabinet re-facing, re-doing speaker cabinets and general veneering on a variety of surfaces. The ideal environment to achieve equilibrium with your veneer is defined as 30-55% relative humidity at a temperature range between 55-85 degrees F. Either method will allow the moisture in the veneer glue to transfer the bonding polymers to the paper backing and will give you the quality bond you expect. However, in most cases you'll probably find it easiest to just remake the substrate panel and start fresh.
Sometimes I wonder if that's why almost all dashboards and car components are in this particular veneer. The veneer and edgebanding will accept stains and finishes well so customizing and matching colors is also a snap. Prior to application, allow your veneer a minimum of 48-72 hours lying flat out of the box within the range of conditions stated. It’s also important that your substrate be acclimatized in the same conditions as the veneer to have greater success and avoid problems.
The entire part is obviously made of different pieces of veneer (the top for instance), but the gauge aspect are complete, continuous veneer. Then cut a small enough hole where you want the hole to be (above the hole in the ply) and start to go around the edges with your veneering hammer, pressing the veneer down.
Being that burl is mostly end-grain no matter how you slice it, it's amazing how much it will stretch. I've cut plenty of square panels only to watch them turn into parallelograms once I get them wet with glue.

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