08 Nov. 2014|
Free router table fence plans,refinishing birch plywood cabinets,powermatic 20 planer review - Reviews
Yes, this post WAS inspired by our very own KnotScott: 6 KnotScott Forum Finds: Router Fences, Cleaning Router Bits + Clamps, Clamps, and More Clamps!
Router Table Fence StorageWhenever I’m working at the router table, I always seem to spend a lot of time looking for bits, wrenches, and collets.
This gives you a place for the dust collection port, but more important, it provides real estate for adding some storage options.
The problem with most router tables is that the fence won't adjust more than a few inches from the bit. To improve the situation, this two-way alternate fence works with both the length and width of your table.
The fence is made from medium-density fiberboard (MDF).MDF is dense, hard and flat,which makes it a great choice for this fence and other shop-made jigs. Making superfine adjustments to my router-table fence was hit-or-miss until I came up with my own microadjustment system. To add a turnbuckle to your fence, use the hardware shown to add a pivot bolt to both the fence and the starting block.
The turnbuckle works best on the "push" stroke, so make all your final adjustments by driving the fence away from the starting block to take out any slack in the threads.
Download PDF of illustrationFor more in-depth information on routing, visit the Routing Techniques section in the WOOD Store.
This is a cool idea, but, I still think that just using a hammer to gently tap the fence into place is a lot faster and easier. While that's fine for edge work and a few other situations, it doesn't make full use of the table (for example, when fluting a wide workpiece). Depending on the table size, you may be able to firmly position the fence up to 20" away from the bit. Tall or short, it’s easy to swap between the faces of this fence, so you always have the right one for the job. It’s a breeze to adjust the faces to surround the bit and make a tear-out-limiting, zero-clearance fence. Two simple clamps hold the fence to the table,making fence adjustments simple.Plus, you won’t have any trouble clamping featherboards to this fence.
Cut all interchangeable faces (C and D) to finished size.Take advantage of your tablesaw setups to make extra faces. Place the guard in its slot and use a felt-tip marker to transfer the locations of the guard-pin holes to the guard. Bolt a pair of faces to the fence,hook up the dust collection, clamp the fence to your table, and you’re ready to rout!
With this system, I simply clamp one end of the fence and make fine adjustments to the other end, before or after, with the turnbuckle.
To ensure that the fence doesn't move once you've got it perfect, clamp the turnbuckle end of the fence down.
The side arms automatically align the fence with the table, and a pair of bar clamps hold the fence solidly in place.
Then you can cut a dado at the bottom of the fence to hold the piece of L-shaped aluminum in place. This allows the aluminum strip attached to the fence to be moved forward and backward one thread at a time when you make fine fence adjustments.
Use silicone caulk to seal the dust collection box where it doesn’t fit perfectly around the fence. When not in use, you can leave the pivot bolt and eyes in place and simply remove the turnbuckle. The fence requires about a half sheet, so you could share a sheet with a fellow woodworker.
A straight board clamped to the table is all it takes.You don’t need to have a good router table fence already in order to make one!