05 Apr. 2011|
Box joint router jig,wood motor yacht plans,plans for wooden shed ramp,wood shops for rent in nyc - Test Out
As a new adventurous into box joint, joinery and after study and research I optioned for the router table version The MLCS Multi Joint System as for me swapping out a router bit is much more to my liking apposed to swapping out a tablesaw blade plus it’s easier and leaves a cleaner cut.
I’ve had this system for a good while and after trial and error during the learning phase, I now have a good grasp on how it works, am pleased with how it preforms, it’s ease in use and ready to write a review on it, once I got the hang of it I’ve been making flawless joints that look very professional, the bits I use are Whiteside up-spiral bits, I’ve learned that practically all of the box joint jigs work on the same principle be it tablesaw or router table it’s just a matter of ones liking and preference be it tablesaw or router table though I have heard that a router bit leaves a cleaner cut as mentioned earlier, I believe that all jigs share the same principle in that they work or use a key and spacing system and in order to have a smooth joint the spacing has to be precise any minute fluctuation in the spacing can leave for a bad joint, 1. A gap between each pin (box joint) and slot is caused by a key (spacing) that’s too close to the bit meaning when first setting up for the cut depending on the size of your joints when spacing between the bit and the guide pin or guide bar the spacing was to close between the two, 2.
If the pins (box joint) won’t fit in the slots at all, the key was setup too far away from the router bit when spacing between the guide pin or guide bar, 3. 24" base constructed with sturdy MDF and durable laminated surface works on most router tables. If you have an offset from the top and bottom of the box sides this is caused by not having the workpiece fully seated against the key before making the cut.