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14 Jun. 1982

Applying wood veneer to plywood,build a wood porch swing,free full size captains bed plans - For Outdoors

How to Cover Plywood Edges with Wood VeneerPlywood is great for shelving, cabinets, and furniture; but the plies on the edges are unsightly and need to be covered to give the project a finished look.
Use a household iron set on cotton (without steam) to activate the glue, pressing the veneer firmly in place. After the glue has cooled, use a single cut, mill bastard file to remove the extra veneer from the edges.
Follow this with medium (120 grit) sandpaper to smooth and take the sharp edge off the veneer before finishing the plywood.
Veneer pros discuss vacuum bag and other techniques for making veneer conform to a three-dimensional surface like the gauge panel of a Jaguar automobile dashboard.
I seem to remember a Fine Woodworking article about applying veneer on a demilune table and having the veneer wrap around the curved table edge.
By the way, the veneer I used on that table in the article was birdseye maple, which works fairly well. I would go in a spiral pattern, as you shouldn't be able to bend the veneer, but little by little you can achieve this look. If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Adding veneer to a project is a quick and easy way to add a bit of flair to projects and the application process is very simple. Apply your glue to your veneer allowing it to dry before attaching it to both faces of the substrate to prevent the surface of the shelf from warping.
But some woodworkers hesitate, because they think it will require a bunch of special supplies and equipment to properly apply veneer. To finish the application process, run an iron over the surface of the veneer, this will activate the glue and attach it firmly to the shelving.


You could attach strips of solid wood to the edges using brads and glue, but an easier method is to apply strips of veneer edge banding that comes with a heat sensitive glue on the back. My favorite technique is to use veneer to cover up the plywood, and I use a heat sensitive veneer that has glue on the back. Now you could sand it off, but I prefer using a file because there’s less likely a chance of damaging the veneer on the panel itself. After gluing up the core and veneer with epoxy and bagging the part, the guy sucked out a good volume of air, then stopped the pump. The veneer could be almost flat with a pile of molded resin on top of it to give it that 3D look. I have some fleece backed bamboo veneer, but I'm sure it's not the same thing as this is thick and would break easily. The thing I would add to what you said is to wipe the veneer with a wet sponge in the area where the veneer has to do the three dimensional bending. I have 10 years experience in automotive wood trim manufacture, both at Bentley and currently at Rolls-Royce. So this is a single cut mill bastard file, and you can see how easy and cleanly it cuts the veneer away.
With a little practice and patience I think almost anyone could successfully veneer the dashboard shown in this post. The way we do it, using unbacked 0.5mm thick veneer, is either by a die pressing method which uses a high pressure die press and corresponding male and female tools, or using a membrane pressing method which uses a liquid glue and a lower temperature than the die press, which is around 140°C. This is standard thickness wood veneer which folds down perfectly into the circular gauge bevels with almost no cracking.
Lay thin strips of wood across the glued surface of the ply, then position your veneer on top of the wooden lats.


But if you keep the pieces small, like in the table shelf example below, veneering can be as easy as using an iron. If the edges of the substrate will be exposed after veneering, glue hardwood edging to match the veneer species (here, its mahogany).
The key here is the fleece backing and the flexing, which allows the veneer to conform to these various curves without breaking.
You are also right that burls do this better than regular grained wood, especially walnut burl. There should be around 15% moisture content in the veneer, and burr veneers work more readily than straight grain veneers, which tend just to split. Then select appropriately sized veneer pieces (you must apply it to both faces of the substrate). Sometimes I wonder if that's why almost all dashboards and car components are in this particular veneer. The entire part is obviously made of different pieces of veneer (the top for instance), but the gauge aspect are complete, continuous veneer.
Then cut a small enough hole where you want the hole to be (above the hole in the ply) and start to go around the edges with your veneering hammer, pressing the veneer down. Then, with a standard household iron set to its hottest temperature ready to go, position the veneer on the substrate (glue face to glue face) and then just iron the veneer down.


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