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Whitewashing furniture is a great way to revive an old piece of wooden furniture while keeping the wood grain visible. Similarly, you can make your own whitewash by mixing turpentine into an oil-based paint until the desired consistency is reached. For oak or other wood with large grain and pores, apply the whitewash against the grain to ensure it covers the contour of the wood.
For pine and most other woods, apply the whitewash in the direction of the wood grain for best results.
One coat is often enough, especially if you mixed your own whitewash to the desired consistency. Since you'll be applying paint instead of stain, you do not need to thoroughly remove old finish (sealant) unless it is flaking off. Although this technique is known as whitewashing, it is possible to use any color of stain or mixed paint.
Applying two layers of whitewash in different colors can create the effect of one color "peeking through" under the thin overcoat. Before applying paint to whitewashed furniture, all you need to do is sand the surface slightly to create a rough texture for the paint to adhere to. If you're looking for a way to brighten a room or revive an old piece of furniture, a whitewashed finish may be just the thing.
In contrast to a regular paint job, whitewashing refreshes the look of wood surfaces while allowing their natural grain to show through. Apply the whitewash with a paintbrush, using long strokes in the direction of the wood grain. It’s also called aged oak, grey acacia, pickled or whitewashed, depending on the shade. Leave the tinted stain on for a few minutes before wiping it off, BUT wipe off the White Wash Pickling ASAP! Dry brushing uses ordinary paint to achieve a similar effect, while painting furniture white using more typical methods creates an opaque, even appearance. This will neutralize the stripper and make the wood safe to work with and able to hold whitewash. Gently use a medium or fine grit sandpaper[5] or sander to rub the surfaces you will whitewash.

You can buy this ready made as "wood stain" or "white wash pickling", or make your own by mixing paint and water. The latter is a lime and chalk based paint, which will take much longer to dry and obscure the wood grain.
Use a paint brush, foam roller, or clean rag to apply long strokes to the surface of the furniture.
Before the whitewash can completely dry, use a clean cloth to wipe any excess from the furniture surface.
Applying additional layers (and again wiping off the excess) will create a thicker layer that obscures more of the wood grain. If you find yourself adding more than three layers, you may want to use a thicker whitewash. After the whitewashing is completely dried, apply a clear water-based sealant over the surface. Oil-based sealants may give your furniture a yellow tinge that detracts from the intended color color. Just as though you were actually whitewashing, you should sand and clean the surface to be brushed.
In that scenario, see instructions for chemical stripping under Whitewashing Furniture or thoroughly sand the finish off. If you pause during the painting or make the initial contact between brush and wood too heavy, you will get uneven blotches of paint. One or two coats of a water-based sealant will preserve your furniture without altering its color. Unlike using a whitewash stain, you're trying to (largely) obscure the wood grain and make the furniture completely white. If you need to, thoroughly sand the old finish until it is removed or follow the instructions under Whitewashing Old Furniture for safe use of chemical strippers. 24 hours after the last coat of paint was applied, you may coat the furniture with any type of sealant to protect the paint job. People who tend to have a reaction to chemicals or paints should wear protective gloves while engaged in the whitewashing.
It may not be to everyone’s taste, but in dark or sterile-seeming rooms, the light color and pleasingly imperfect aesthetic of whitewashing can make the space appear larger, friendlier, and more comfortably lived-in.

That being the case, it’s critical that you remove as much of any existing finish—be it paint, stain, or varnish—as possible.
Rest assured there’s no complicated recipe to follow; rather, making whitewash is a simple matter of diluting regular white paint. So long as the whitewash is dry (allow several hours), you can use fine-grit sandpaper to play down any coverage that you think seems thicker than ideal.
Apply tinted stain to one area at a time using a brush – for example one board at a time. Using a clean quality brush, apply a thin coat of Polycrcylic in Satin finish for protection from food stains and spills. The vinegar solution is effective at removing stains and dirt which could cause the whitewash to apply unevenly. As the mixture will dry more quickly than standard paint, apply the whitewash product in relatively small sections rather than attempting to coat the entire piece. This incremental process makes it easy to create the exact combination of color and wood grain that is right for the project. Although its results are out of the ordinary, whitewashing differs only slightly from run-of-the-mill painting. Should you prefer the wood grain to show through more than it does, use a cloth to wipe away excess whitewash before it has the chance to dry completely. I am now trying to remove the Annie Sloan soft wax off of the bare wood, it didn’t give me the look I wanted.
I am just doing the table top with the stain, the bottom part of the table and chairs are going to be painted with Annie Sloan Provence. Before you whitewash the entire surface, first experiment with the mixture in an inconspicuous spot.

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17.08.2015 | Author: admin

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