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A pure or polymerized tung oil finish is easy to use and will produce beautiful results on any type of wood, inside or out.
Other types of existing finishes, such as varnish, must be removed, as tung oil is a penetrating oil.
Exterior wood surfaces should be cleaned with water and a scrub brush to remove any residual stains or finishes. Providing all the desired qualities of a finish, the oil's of an unassuming nut penetrate through the surface of wood, bonding within the cellular structures to form a protective barrier.
The bond becomes permanent without loosing flexibility, unlike many modern finishes this elastic nature allow a piece to expand, twist, and contract without shattering the bond of the finish - causing the well known flaking and peeling found throughout the mass production furniture industries. Draft Format Article on Tung Oil Padding Techniques, we're developing this article to present some of our finishing practices. There is an old saying that says there is more then one way to skin a cat; ergo the methods one uses in the application of tung oil varnish vary from artist to artist. We use the padding method to apply all our oil finishes, especially Waterlox a high-grade tung oil varnish. Shellac also raises the grain better, penetrating the wood pores deeper better then oil sealers, which do not raise grain. Let the final coat cure for the recommended 24 hours, then rub with 0000 grade steal wool between coats and you have a world-class satin finish any museum would be proud to display. A common myth is that using tung oil on butcher blocks is unsafe because of tree nut allergies, but pure tung oil is generally regarded as food safe. Citrus solvent is a environmentally safe and non toxic solution to other solvents when applied over tung oil.
Safecoat Durostain is a premium quality, fast curing low sheen finish semi-transparent stain for interior and exterior surfaces.
North American Ash wood decking harvested from well managed North American sustainable forests that is resistant to rot and decay for over 25 years. Tung oil finishes are usually applied to unfinished wood, but they can be used over oil based stains. This finish does not build a film like varnish, so you need to do most of the sanding before any tung oil finish is applied.

Remove light scratches with a light sanding and the addition of another coat of tung oil finish.
Other oils attempting the same, linseed, olive, danish, etc never truly dry and although they provide some color and protection form the elements they act as dust magnets always having a damp feel to the surface. Family protected recopies for hand mixed variants of tung oil products and various dryers and solvents offer sealing, satin, and gloss finishes matched to any interior or exterior need, even marine applications. Raw Tung Oil and Danish Oil - Waterlox dries better and forms a film that's strong enough to walk on.
Linseed Oil - Waterlox provides deeper penetration to seal wood fibers beneath the surface.
Shellac - Shellac is the standard finish on Early American furniture, providing a penetrating seal and flexible finish that can be polished and refreshed for touch ups or revitalization However shellac is easily damaged by water or alcohol.
However, the rules for reproductions and collectable furniture restoration are far more flexible allowing a tung oil finish option to provide a functional alternative to shellac often applied over a two thin coats of dewaxed shellac to maintain the distinct finish appearance. Preparation is a key factor; sand, or better yet scrape, the wood surface as you normally would before finishing. Two thin coats serve to seal the piece and raise the grain of the wood as it's exposed to the solvents in the sealer. Deep penetration and higher rise in the grain results in more sanding; but here is the kicker, shellac takes to wood like no other substance. The tung oil offered by most are typically a thinned down varnish to polymerized tung oil, and most have petroleum distillates added. Tung oil takes some time to cure, but once it is fully hardened with proper application, tung oil can create a water impenetrable surface. Half & Half (half tongue oil and half citrus solvent) is also available as an elegant one step solution.
The pad leaves no brush marks, only a thin film that dries in half the time of a brushed finish. Application at this phase is usually bushed on, as the grain of many woods will catch the tiny fibers of a cotton pad as they rise. Apply a liberal amount to the pad and wipe on in a circular pattern working the finish into any remaining open grain and spreading it evenly.

Clean off the wax, steel wool down the surface and apply one or two more thin coats of tung oil.
Pure tung oil will not build a gloss finish or heavy finish, but will penetrate deeply into the wood to enhance character and water resistance while creating a great wood finish. We at Artisans of the Valley are formally trained eighteenth furniture makers and finishers, so the "old time techniques" prevail in our shop. Multiple thin layers build an antique satin luster, a finish almost lost to antiquity in modern mass production. Sanding with 220 grit paper or 000 grade steal wool will level the grain and remove any dust or imperfections settling in the finish as it dries.
With shellac, you can get your seal coats on in about an hour, while oil sealers take 24 hours to dry.
This wonderful product of nature being digested tree sap is what makes it so compatible with wood fibers. The result is a finish exhibiting the characteristics of a well-preserved antique, a finish character that serves our trademark. It was the finish of choice in the eighteenth century and if you want to make a real looking antique reproduction you had better use shellac. Tung oil does not change the appearance of the shellac antique look, and Waterlox's formula dries very well over shellac. You can apply another two coats and be done with your finishing or you can use a tung oil varnish to finish. Many formulations forced by the EPA air pollution standards act do not allow tung oils and varnishes to properly cure over a shellac sealer. The thinner the better; you will need three to six coats depending on the density of the wood.

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07.02.2014 | Author: admin

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