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Make wood plank kitchen countertop,diy wood veneer garage door,modern bunk beds canada,wood wagon planter plans - 2016 Feature>

As we have established many times over by now, my kitchen was full of a lot of nightmarish problems that added up to everything being pretty much terrible and disgusting.
I thought briefly of doing this super cool faux-concrete treatment to the existing counters, which seems relatively easy and looks great, but I felt really strongly that the countertops should be wood.
I really wanted butcher block counters, but even at IKEA (which seems to be the cheapest option around, after much researching), the countertops alone would have run me about $320, not to mention the cost of transporting them here. I’m not entirely sure what to seal the countertops with in the long-term, but for now I put a generous coating of mineral oil on them to give them some water resistance and bring out the natural color of the fir. Every time I see the long view of the kitchen I am shocked at how high the ceilings are (sooooooo awesooooome).
I think this is probably a little overboard for countertops (as opposed to artisanal cutting boards), so you could definitely do a faster application over a larger surface. PERSONALLY, if you’re keeping your kitchen longterm and love butcher block, I’d say go for it! We have built a few wood countertops before (we, haha…I mean Adam) and this time he decided to make things simple and create one out of wood flooring.
The unfinished wood was actually a little hard to find, Adam got some maple from a place called S & S Wood Floors in San Antonio. To make the countertop he just cut a piece of plywood to size and started gluing the planks on.
I didn’t want it to look like butcher block, so we played around with several sizes, and types of woods. The corners ended up being pretty sharp, and with little ones that run laps around our kitchen, we had to take those down a bit. I’d love to give you some secret formula, but as with most of the stuff in my house, there was alot of make it up as you go. Make samples for yourself…I would try small cans of stains, writing down what you do, as you do it. While the layer was damp, and not dry all the way through the wood…I took a darker version of the stain (still thinned out), and with the edge of the foam brush I started to highlight areas of the grain. If you missed the other posts on how I built this solid cedar countertop, you can see the actual building process here, followed by the sanding and cutting to size here.
I personally would go ahead and apply the polyurethane to protect the wood while you work on the shelves, and save the final coat until the project is all finished. I love the section of butcher block I have in my apartment kitchen, and given that the rest of the room is mainly black and white, I worried that the concrete would end up making things feel too cold and flat——the kitchen really needs some wood color and texture to bring it to life and inject some warmth.

I bought this thing for a freelance project a while back, and it does a fabulous job of joining pieces of wood easily by helping you drill nice little pocket holes.
I love the way the wood looks with all of the knots and imperfections, and the tone of the wood is so pretty. If the doors are full face and the countertop is flush with the cabinet doors it will look great and have a boxy flat industrial look. The theory is that you are building up a slurry of wood and finish that fills in the little holes and gaps in the grain leaving you with a nice finish.
I’m currently fantasizing about the IKEA butcherblock countertops for our kitchen, but these look beautiful!
Usually you make them out of wood planks (like we did in our other bathroom and for our farmhouse table) but to do it right you need a joiner, table saw, planer (or belt sander), kreg jig and bar clamps.
For this project Adam wanted unfinished solid hardwood, but we used engineered and prefinished flooring (leftover from our floor) for the countertop in our laundry room. Its going to take some customization the make it work and I’m pretty sure the middle drawer is going to be a false front.
I guess for the sake of both of you getting your way, if you’re not committed to the green you could make that dark. I had this big plan, for black leathered granite counter tops for the island, and a beautiful white and grey granite for the other counters.
You don’t want the wood to be completely dry, because the stain would be harsh, and stay right were you touched the wood.
Plus, Alyson is a professional painter and she shares a ton of great painting tips, like how to paint cabinets like a pro, how to paint wood floors, and the ever-so-helpful white primer vs. May I just say that that front piece of wood, the front-most plank in the middle, has absolutely gorgeous grain! I am doing a very similar project and I was waiting to see how you attached the wood top to the wall and cabinets below. The fact that you knew to use wood conditioner before staining, and that you sanded the sharp wood edges shows that you are doing professional -quality carpentry! My Hubs brought home an old wooden ice box that I am refinishing, but I couldn’t figure out what color I wanted to do it.
I forgot that the bond is much stronger if you drill two holes instead of one at each screw placement, so I did that for the second countertop (which I stupidly did not photograph). Nora and I just switched on and off when our arms began to feel like Jell-O, and it probably took about an hour (maybe more) for each countertop.

I actually made a smaller section of countertop for my friend Anna after I made my own and attempted to do this with a circular saw and a rigid metal cutting guide, and that worked pretty well. I think it’s the small upper cabinets and loooooonggggg soffits that make it look a little crazy!
We used waterlox to seal our wood front door, and I’ve heard of others using it on butcher block. We did have to tear out part of the kitchen ceiling and they got covered in some debris, but it was easy to just vacuum off the crevices and stuff and wipe them down.
His family owned a custom cabinet shop growing up so he does appreciate the natural beauty of wood. I paint so many people kitchens, and cabinets on a day-to-day basis, that I knew exactly what  I wanted in my kitchen. So I wanted cheap, fast wood counters that wouldn’t be too precious but would get the job done. First I went to Sherwin Williams with a sample (shelf) from the entertainment center and a piece of yellow pine and they custom made a stain color for me to match then I used a wood conditioner (made by Minwax) before applying the stain which helped with the splotchiness. And he wears it every weekend all weekend long when I make him crawl in attics and do all the man-projects for me. Today’s guest has a fabulous tutorial to show you how to create beautiful *faux* reclaimed wood countertops, using new wood.
My dad, who has way more experience in this kind of stuff, made me seal the wood after staining (cuz I was also painting something over the stain) honestly I can’t tell you more about the sealer it was in an unlabeled can. As you ssid, these are the kinds of things that make a big difference in the finished product. I purchased this at a specialty wood store here in town, it’s not carried at the local hardware store.
Then when I applied the coat of polyurethane on top, it first looked gorgeous while wet, but it dried sorta white and you could barely see the wood grain underneath. It can make soft woods look more like hardwoods, because it makes the grain less contrast-y.

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18.03.2015 | Author: admin

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