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I created the jpeg below to show you how I drilled the pocket holes and dowel holes for the breadboards.
To build the base, I begin by cutting all my wood down to size (the picture also shows the bench legs that I cut at the same time). I use the same tools as I used on the tabletop and distress on the exposed faces of the boards that will form the base. I start by staining the underneath side of the tabletop and then every nook and cranny of the base, bench, and extensions. I sand down the tabletop with 22o grit sandpaper, wipe off the dust, and apply my first coat of Briwax. The other day I was browsing projects on Ana White’s website and came across a dining table I had to have. I’m working on an updated post that will have the measurements used for the table in the video. Alison GooteeAdvertisement - Continue Reading Below(Photo by Alison Gootee)There's no better way to give thanks than to gather family and friends around an enormous table to share a feast.
Illustrations by George RetseckTIP: If you like our table but want something that looks a little more polished, just expand the finishing step. One of our readers recently made an amazing table and used dowels so I decided to give that a try for the first time ever on this table and I loved it. I found the easiest way to do this is to use the extensions as a way of helping me align the center of the tabletop.


The table will have a more protective finish and you’ll be able to even out some of the spots that absorbed the first coat. When the steel wool and vinegar combine it seems to release some sort of gas and so it would build up a little pressure if there was a tight lid. I’d like to build one of these for my deck and would like to build a pair of benches to go with it.
Here is a photo of a table a friend made and they used longer brreadboards and scooted the legs in just a bit.
I’ve looked at both and might have missed them but figured I might have to go to builders supply.
You’ll notice I distressed the table a bit by scratching it, hitting it with a hammer, and using a punch tool. Find out where your local building contractors buy materials for building homes as they are sure to have them. Once it’s in place, I clamp it all down, climb under the table, and screw it into place using all the pocket holes created in the aprons and a few screws through the supports. I want the table to look rustic but I also want it to be a high quality table that will last for years and years. Farmers used to build these tables themselves, not furniture makers or carpenters, so it's okay if it turns out a bit rustic. Chairs with arms should be able to easily slide under the table's aprons.Crosscut both short aprons but don't cut the long aprons yet.


If the top shifts as the glue dries, trim it with a saw, using the breadboard ends as a guide.Use a doweling jig to bore holes in the ends of the tabletop and on one side of each breadboard piece.
After test-fitting the breadboard ends, spread a little glue on the dowels, attach the ends, then use three ratchet-strap clamps to apply pressure as the glue dries.Next, use right-angle brackets to mount the tabletop to the base. It’s still rough after this so I take it back to the table saw and swirl it around to smooth out the cut. This will make the stretcher extend ⅝ inch past the surface of the leg when the table is finally assembled. Elongate the bracket holes in the top a bit to allow for the wood to expand and contract with changes in humidity.Sand the table smooth. I finished the table with two coats of Jacobean-tinted polyurethane, then buffed on a couple of coats of wax after it was dry. The dark tint hides any scratches or nicks and also makes it look like it was built a century ago. On that note, you can give up your coasters—a little wear will only make your table look better.



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29.06.2014 | Author: admin



Comments to «How to build a farmers table»

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