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Ebony wood stain on oak,outside boiler plans,woodworing - You Shoud Know>

Our floors look beautiful whether you finish them with clear polyurethane or tung oil, or stain them - with one of our custom-made stains - to dramatically alter the wood's natural appearance and create the perfect color to suit your home's decor. I have a water-popped red oak floor which is to be stained ebony, but the client would like it darker.
If you dye the wood black and then use a black stain over the dye, you can make it as dark as you want depending on how much you dilute the dye. Basically I'm trying to stain 2000 sqft of red oak, as well as 4 flights of tread and riser end caps with cove moulding. If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum.
So this month we thought we’d put together a blog post to answer the most common questions we are asked about choosing, applying and living with dark stained floors.
If you have red or white oak (which makes up the majority of Naperville homes) then there is no problem at all. But if you have an exotic wood floor like Ipe or Jatoba, then we will strongly suggest that they should not be stained for two reasons… 1) they already look nice and dark naturally – these are the woods people try to emulate when they stain oak – so why mess with mother nature, and 2) they have natural oils in them that can make them extremely hard to get a consistent, even look. A lot of this comes down to the finish system you put on top of the stain not so much the color of the stain itself. If you use a high-end professional grade finish system like we do at Tadas Wood Flooring, then you won’t have this issue to worry about.
Dark stained floors will help anchor a room and give you the freedom to put light, bright colors on the walls – or even just white – that will add brightness to the room. In the end, staining hardwood floors is going to come down to personal choice just like a car color.
When you do, if you live in Naperville or the surrounding area, we’ll be here to help transform those beautiful hardwood floors into the perfect shade of stain you’ve been dreaming about. Hi there, I live in Estes Park, Colorado and I’m trying to convince the floor guy that I want a darker finish on my 80 year old red oak floors. Pretty much all of the floors we finish with OSMO we stain first with a different brand of stain.
I’m trying to find a stain for my family room colums and mantle that will match my dark cherry cabinets.

When done with aniline dye a pretty decent black can be obtained while preserving at least some grain detail in the wood. Well that Japan pigment will DEFINITELY take a gel on bare wood down to a dark that should be plenty dark.
They are used before any other finish (except maybe a shellac wash coat on end grain) and die the wood.
They are considered the best way of changing the color of wood without obscuring the grain. Before trying any new finish combination I finish some of the scrap pieces of wood from a project all the way through to check for problems and appearance. A last note: the finish expert I visited yesterday showed me how the stain faded as it dries.
I used 3 coats of General Finishes water based gel stain in espresso - a dark non-yellowy brown. The result a super dark brownish black that I can still see hints of wood grain through - so it looks like wood instead of paint.
We're actually painting portions of our cabinetry a creamy white with an espresso glaze - and staining was MUCH easier IMO than the painting is (with the oak the grain is VERY open, so we've needed to fill it with several coats of wood filler and then are priming with several coats of BIN primer before paint. First of all staining is a one time application,you don't stain things two three and 7 times. If you intend to stain something and achieve the correct results you need to prepare the surface properly.
The basic problem with trying to achieve a black or expresso look from a stain that you buy at Home Depot ,Loews or your local paint store is that the basic consistancy of the stain is that of WATER.
If you use Sherwin Williams S61 dye stain you can mix with acetone and add a little water and it will penetrate into the pores better.
NGR stains are alcohol based and dry very fast, making them difficult to wipe, and are designed to be sprayed. I would go half a step farther and recommend either Behlen's Solarlux or Mohawk's Ultra Penetrating Stain (actually a dye). Oak takes a stain very well and we can stain from a light color all the way up to dark ebony.

The only difference is the scratch in the dark colored floor will show through more noticeably as the color of the natural wood underneath is lighter. We have used Duraseal and Minwax stains so you should have no trouble with either of those. I can still see grain but I also get what brickeyee is saying: it is kind of on the wood not just IN the wood like a stain. You need the ability to control the viscocity of the stain, you really need to be able to make a thick ,heavy bodied stain.
On the far left is unstained wood, dye only in the middle, and dye combined with ebony pigmented wiping stain on the right. It’s because of cheap, poor quality finishes that dark stained floors have this reputation of showing scratches easily. HYPERconcentrated stuff, like the colorants used to mix paints, and my little jar will darken vats of any non water based stain. Hope springs eternal and all, but I am prepared to hear you say you're starting with bare wood. I would wipe off the India ink or the pigment stain to ensure you push it into the pores and remove all excess from the surface. Because of this I would lean towards staining with a regular stain and then finish with good commercial grade finish like Bona Traffic or or Pallmann 98. Out of all the experiments the most striking of all the black oak is the rusty metal and vinegar. A few coats of semi gloss, which helps to even the color a little, and this counter is incredible, is unique, and cannot be replicated with store bought stains.

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31.07.2015 | Author: admin

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