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There are certain techniques and standard practices I use in cabinet making whether I’m building built-ins, stand alone furniture or household cabinets. I generally never build a cabinet or built-in wider than 32″ and that is with a face frame which provides a little extra strength to the span of the board length.


Although both plywood and MDF will most likely bow eventually at that length if they are loaded down with a ton of books or heavy items, they should hold up under normal use.
As I said in point #3, sometimes I build a separate base for a cabinet to achieve the desired height I want while maximizing materials. I ¬†only do a separate base if the cabinet side is going to be hidden in the end whether it’s going to have applied breadboard or its going to have another cabinet nested up against it or some other situation that will hide the sides of the cabinet. SPAX screws do all that (almost always without splitting any wood) as you drive them so it’s only one step which is why I almost always refer to SPAX screws in my tutorials. SPAX is all I use any more unless I’m using KREG pocket hole screws which you have to pre drill because they go in at an angle and that is nearly impossible to do without pre drilling. 6-8″ from the top of the cabinet and the above the placement of the bottom shelf is sufficient.
Make sure you drill the holes in exactly the same placement on both sides of the cabinet so your shelves don’t rock.


I like to draw a line (with a pencil) ON BOTH SIDES of the sides of a cabinet to mark the BOTTOM of a fixed shelf.
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03.08.2015 | Author: admin



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