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Although there are a variety of styles, four basic planes include the fore plane, jack plane, smoothing plane and block plane. Planes have many uses; however, their primary purposes are surfacing or smoothing wood surfaces. Although there are several styles, the four basic planes include: block plane, jack plane, fore plane and smoothing plane. Block planes are small, intended for use with one hand, and used for doing end grain work, beveling edges and other small chores. Woodcraft Supply’s bull-nose block plane allows you to get into tight corners and cut right to the edge. Smoothing planes are also sometimes called “bench planes.” They range from 9 to 10 inches in length. Many metal planes also have a “curling iron,” sometimes called an “iron cap,” that is held to the blade with a screw. Position the blade and iron assembly in the plane body and adjust the depth with the turn screw.
Make sure the plane blade is locked square in the housing by using the lever on the handle. If at all possible, always plane with the grain of the wood or with the grain slanting in the direction of the stroke. Begin your stroke with the blade off the end of the surface and with downward pressure applied to the front knob or handle. Maintain your planes in good shape by an occasional light oil application to the bed and adjustments.
The slight curve (camber) in the edge of the plane blade is visible as a light gap against the straightedge. For jack planes, more camber lets this workhorse take thicker shavings without producing gutters.
RobPorcaro writes: I do most of my sharpening freehand, so to produce a mild camber such as for a smoothing plane blade, I just lean a bit more on each side of the blade on the stone and work the pressure smoothly toward the middle. The math is tangential to the main points which are to use differing cambers according to the task of each plane and, to realize that bevel up and bevel down blades, all else equal, require different approaches to producing camber in the sharpening process. The more pronounced camber also makes it easier to direct the plane’s cut at the high spots on the surface of a board being dimensioned.
After a lot of experimenting I've developed an easy and quick method of sharpening and cambering my smooth plane blades. I am comparing the camber you observe when you look at the edge 90° to the face of the blade ("c") with the camber that the wood "sees" - i.e. However, since the middle of the blade is thus destined to dull first, it is easy to reduce the camber on the next honing. I use sandpaper sharpening on a stone surface plate with the Veritas MK II honing guide and camber roller.

I'm going to send Rob an email to make sure he chimes in but I can tell that my method - also the method of our art director whose blades cut shavings fine enough to see through - is to simply apply more pressure on one side of the iron (in a honing jig), then switch pressure to the other side, then even pressure, repeat, etc. Think of it this way: if the blade were laid flat and you viewed it toward the edge, there would appear to be no camber at all. Wood can be smoothed by other means as well, including power planing, hand sanding and using scrapers.
Kind of “jack-of-all-trades” planes, they can be used for almost any purpose, making them a good all-around choice for a single-plane owner.
These run from 18 to 24 inches and are also sometimes called “jointer planes.” As you can guess, one of the main uses is for planing the edges for edge jointing.
The curling iron not only adds stiffness to the blade, but also causes the shavings to curl up and out, rather than clogging the mouth of the plane.
One method of adjusting for depth is to place a piece of thin cardboard or stiff paper on a flat, smooth surface and under the plane.
Place a piece of thin cardboard or stiff paper in a flat surface, position the plane on it, then adjust the blade to that thickness.
The slight convexity or "camber" in the edge of a smoothing plane iron should allow the production of airy shavings that are thickest in the middle, say .001", and feather out to nothing at a little less than the width of the blade. When grinding and honing a plane blade, I check the camber by setting the blade’s edge on a small aluminum straight edge and holding it up to the light to look for the tiny gaps that gradually enlarge from the center to the sides of the blade. I think the point you want to make is that you have to have a greater camber on a bevel down plane than a bevel up plane for the same depth of cut. The camber that you observe sighting 90 degrees to the face of the blade will mostly disappear when you install the blade in a 12 degree-bed, bevel-up plane and sight down the sole to observe the camber.
The important thing is to observe the plane's performance and let that guide your perception as to what is "enough" camber next time at the sharpening station.
Our hand plane service includes the sharpening of the plane blade and a free plane sole base check, if minor sole flattening is needed, it is included!!! I find no need for a special rig, though I suppose that could help for a blade with a pronounced curve such as a scrub plane. A more direct approach during the sharpening process is to check the camber against a straightedge with the blade tilted at the bed angle.
If the plane digs in or “chatters” and is set to the correct depth, you are planing against the grain. A similarly small, or perhaps a bit more, camber in the edge of a jointer plane blade allows one to bring down the "high" side of an out-of-square edge without tilting and destabilizing the heavy plane.
Therefore, I sharpen more camber into a blade for a low angle bevel-up plane than for a bevel-down plane to achieve the same functional amount of camber. At the Sharpening Shack, we professionally hand and machine sharpen most wood chisels and hand planes.
No problem: The center of the blade will take the most wear and you can hone away some of the hump to resharpen the blade and reduce the camber.

This post will discuss factors in the amount of camber in the edge of a plane iron with attention to an under-appreciated trigonometric quirk. I put pressure with one finger in the middle of the blade and make five strokes pulling toward myself but not pushing forward. A bull-nose block plane has the blade at the front edge, and can be used for smoothing in tight places, or up against another surface.
Although these are no longer being made, the old Stanley planes are still around, if you can find them, but the cost is high. Woodcraft Supply has a chisel and plane-blade sharpening guide that helps to maintain a consistent angle.
The blade is positioned for the depth of cut and the wedge tapped in place to hold the blade.
This prevents an arched edge caused by the plane rocking up at the beginning and down on the end of the stroke. There are undoubtedly other factors affecting shaving thickness, such as blade sharpness, blade edge deflection, and wood grain, so it is most important to monitor the performance of the plane and make adjustments when you resharpen.
We can also slightly round the corners of your plane blade at no additional cost if you so request.
When this blade is installed on a 45° frog in a bevel-down plane, the actual functional convexity is reduced.
Once the angle has been sharpened, turn the blade over to remove the slight “burr” left on the back. The camber should be positioned at the center of the blade projection so the plane can be shifted toward the high side of the board’s edge to remove a slightly thicker shaving there.
Planes come in a wide variety of sizes, styles and designs for specific woodworking purposes. Some craftsmen like to slightly round the corners of the blade so the corners don’t dig in. Planes can range in price from about $25 for new, economical models to planes that cost several hundred dollars. A circular plane has a flexible steel sole and is used for planing concave surfaces such as chair bottoms. A plough or tongue-and-groove plane has an adjustable blade guide allowing you to cut dadoes and rabbets for tongue-and-groove joints.

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16.02.2015 | Author: admin

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