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02.10.2015 admin
I was hoping to make this thread not only informational for myself, but that other information regarding drawers could be collected together.
Though wider cabinets are highly prized here, why did you choose narrower cabinets, instead of the widest available that would fit in your kitchen? If there is anything else, I haven't though of to ask to have this thread be as complete as possible regarding drawers, please feel to add. While I like deep drawers, I think you can have a lot of wasted vertical space unless you really plan what you are putting in them. The usable interior measurement of a drawer will also depend on what type of slide is used. For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. As catbuilder said, the useable space for inset would be the same, depending on which you use. I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to more fully use the inside of the cabinet box. The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves.
What I have found in the bazillion of kitchens posted on GW is there is no right way or wrong way. We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize our drawer interiors.
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Please specify the type of cabinets you have (framed, frameless or inset) your manufacturer (or custom), the size of the cabinet, and what the entire TOP drawer INTERIOR measurements are (width, length, height). It would be great if a thread such as this could end up being a 'sticky', since drawers seem to be a recurring issue. Side mounted slides will allow drawers to be taller, but also they will be narrower (side to side).
This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. In other words, it doesn't matter if the framed cabinet above on the left had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same no matter what door style was used on the framed cabinet.
I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove.
I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, elec skillet, crockpot, etc.
The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The front of my fridge is even with the edge of my base cabinets and I ordered the uppers over it to come out as deep as the fridge & base cabinets.
I have my lowest two shelves closest together, then the higher shelves a little further apart. I have never seen a kitchen where I thought the handle choices someone made looked odd or bad.
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I stated top drawer only for comparison purposes since only the height should change from drawer to drawer.
How did you deal with the "horizontal lines" differences between your 3 and 4 drawer stacks? This is right where I'm at in the planning so I'll be watching this thread with great interest.
I am anxious to see some of the comments posted here just in case I need to switch my sizes somewhat! The width (side to side) of the drawer box does not change if the drawers are installed inset. Under mounted slides result in drawers that can be wider (side to side), but they are not as tall. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless.
I was already used to my drawers not pulling out for the back 4 inches anyway with the cabinets I already had. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.
The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc.
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Also, it's so helpful when people post pics of the interiors of their drawers (!) but what would be supremely helpful is if they'd also state what the dimensions are of said drawer.
We lined up top drawers in frameless and didn't worry about lower drawers, except that we have Shaker style cabinets and made the rails narrower in the four-drawer bank for aesthetics--cabinetmaker's idea I think.
Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior.
Similarly, if the frameless on the right had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same for that cabinet. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. This can be accomplished two ways - by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a few inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. We maybe would have used different widths for the wider drawers, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. I am thinking about putting can racks in them, but I am not sure if they are sturdy enough.
The height of the drawer will remain the same, because there are always intermediate rails on framed cabinets, whether inset or overlay. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! You want to know how much clearance you have from the floor of the drawer up to the next drawer or the stile between the drawers (or interior cross brace if there is one).


I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer.
The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.
And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer.
Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. As I said above, it is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep.
With drawers, you just pull to open; with ROTS you have to open one or two doors, pull out the shelf, then to close push the tray back in, wait for it to close completely, then close the drawers. This makes the bottom shelves very easy to reach, and the higher shelves are easier to reach as well because they aren't quite as high up.
Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ?
Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is ordered larger.
Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen the same so the drawers line up all the way around for a continuous horizontal line. If they were on their edges in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.
When it's just a few things, I like to wash in the small side and lay out on the sink grid in the large side to drain. Sometimes you may ding your door hitting it on the ROTS, the doors have to be opened fully to be able to access it, and the shelf has to be pushed in fully to be able to close the door(s). I'm only 5'2" and can pretty easily reach items on the 3rd shelf up in all of my cabinets. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer.
Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. When you have your shelves as close together as they can be for the items you want to store there, you could very easily end up with a tall space leftover at the top of the cabinet.
One for silverware, one for baking needs such as rolling pin, wooden spoons, measuring cups etc.
I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. But she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less. That's when an extra shelf or two would be great to store those seldom used items way up at the top.
Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. The others will hold fry pans, ebilskiver pans, shallow casserole dishes, towels, coffee and tea stuff etc.




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