What Hand Planes Do I Need,Wood Planter Benches,Rotary Tool For Wood Carving - Downloads 2016

14.07.2014 admin
Nothing in handplaning is more frustrating than tear-out – which is when the wood rips up in small chunks instead of being sliced clean away.
Early planes had thick irons and didn’t have chipbreakers, even during the age of mahogany, which is hard to plane well.
Jointers, power planers, and sanders can all do the same job as hand planes but they can be too heavy handed for delicate woodworking tasks. Stanley is the first name in hand planes and they number their planes according to size from the smallest being a number 1 to a number 8. To dial in a hand plane for use, you need to set the lateral (side to side) blade adjustment and the blade depth.
A proper lateral adjustment ensures the blade cuts equally on both sides and should be fine tuned using the lever located at the top of the rear handle.

Grasp a hand plane using both hands, one holding the rear handle and the other gripping the top front knob. Watch the video linked below for a more in-depth explanation on the variety of hand planes available and some more tips to use them. Over the years, I’ve collected solutions to eliminate it and found the following ones to be the most useful, especially when first learning how to use a hand plane.
If the grain reverses on itself through the plank a good deal, then I skip the board or saw it into short lengths, which might not give me trouble. A thick shaving will get you done with fewer passes of the smoothing plane over your workpiece. In my view, the chipbreaker’s primary purpose in a modern plane is to mate with the tool’s blade-adjustment mechanism and to aid in chip ejection.

From shaving the bottom of a door to smoothing a desk surface, a hand plane will get the job done easily, while providing the the most comfort. If I get tear-out with a beefy shaving, I retract the iron into the mouth of the handplane and extend it until the shaving looks like the photo at right-center.
Tightening up the mouth aperture of your plane is just one of the weapons you have in your battle against tear-out. But I firmly believe that a sharp iron is the second best way to reduce tear-out when handplaning.

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