Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity so they can develop confidence. Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it purpose, and make it tolerable.
Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you are not above your dog, you will be below it.
You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew whatever they can get at in your absence.
There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus aid in your training. For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it with your fingers. During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be exposed to a variety of social situations.
Your puppy doesn't seem to pick up the idea of whining at or going to the door to tell you it needs to go to the bathroom. The first thing to teach your new puppy is that human flesh is much more sensitive than other puppies and that it really hurts us when they bite.
Puppies that cannot sleep in the bedroom for whatever reason may be comforted by a ticking clock nearby, and a t-shirt of yours from the laundry. IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4 months) to be SURE that dam's antibodies have not gotten in the way of the pup building up its own immunity (read the label of the vaccine!). Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself) ice cubes and give them to the puppy. Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it (rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on. If the crate is too big (because you got an adult size one), you can partition the crate off with pegboard wired to the sides to make the crate the correct size, and move it back as your puppy grows.
Try to keep the first couple of days at home low key as your new puppy gets used to it’s new surroundings. Before you put your new puppy in it’s crate for the night, play with puppy a lot and wear puppy out.
20121 Kings 8:28 -- But please listen to my prayer and my request, because I am your servant.


This is a thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it.
You should think of it in the same way as child-proofing your house but be more thorough about it. You need to pair verbal praise with physical praise for a few months before your puppy understands and appreciates verbal praise.
After that, it should be DHLPP (Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus). If you know that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize.
Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions above). Since you know when your dog has to eliminate, you take it out and it eliminates immediately, and is praised immediately. Use the same spot each time if you can, the smell will help the puppy remember what it is to do, especially after 12 weeks of age. In fact, waiting until your pup is 6 months old to start training it is VERY late, and will be the cause of a LOT of problems. Having two puppies needing house training at the same time can make that process go on for much longer. The single most effective way to do this is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand. You should not depend on these products to keep your puppy safe, but use them as a training aid. Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its life.
When you take a puppy from the litter and into your home, the puppy will play bite and mouth you.
Thus, if you scold your puppy for doing things you don't want it to do, and ignore it when it is being good, you are reinforcing the wrong things. This is at minimum: you may need to add other vaccinations appropriate to your area, such as Lyme, Heart worm (actually a preventive medicine), Rabies (most places), and so on. Then the molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those erupting as well).


You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy loses, as puppies typically swallow them. Scheduled feeding gives the dog food at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of time, such as a half hour. Instead, concentrate on general behavior, getting its attention, introducing things that will be important later in a fun way, and some other preliminary things, such as discouraging it from lagging or forging on the leash (but not making it heel!). She talks about canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy. Consider the analogy with a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are not holding it. They then launch into a series of useful chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general care.
If you can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a shock from chewing a wire you are doing a great job!
Since it is very common for puppies (even from the best breeder) to have worms from the dam's dormant worms, you must take care to have your puppy checked regularly when young.
You'd be amazed at all the activities you can do with your dog once you and the dog learn the basics! When puppy proofing your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if possible) and consider things from this angle. Another way to think of it is getting your dog to be a Good Citizen: it doesn't jump on people, or run off, or indulge in other obnoxious behaviors -- because it knows what you expect of it.
Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a good place; dog shows are another. If a small child falls on your adult dog and sticks a finger in the dog's eye, you should not be surprised if the dog bites. If you do a good job teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you should get a grab and release without damage.



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