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Vermicomposting nutrient content eggs,zombie survival experience texas,what foods can cause joint swelling,store bought prepper food network - 2016 Feature

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We know you’ll find Marle Worm Grower’s Red Wigglers, SoilBoost and Liquid SoilBoost are of Superior Quality! Composting and the reduction of waste is a sensible way to help the environment and keep landfills free of excess organic waste. Worms are remarkably un-fussy and just need organic food to eat, a moist earthy bed and warmth.
You can build a small wooden box or simply use a plastic bin with a few adjustments to house your new composting buddies.
The perfect container should be 8 to 12 inches deep to accommodate the food scraps, worms and bedding. Lightweight items, like lettuce, are easier for worms to make short work of and turn into castings. Under sink composting with worms may take some trial and error to get the appropriate amount of food for the bins size and food scrap level. Worms eat kitchen scraps and create worm castings, which are a valuable soil amendment and plant tonic.
Here’s what you should know before you start: A worm bin is a supplement to a compost pile, not a replacement for one. While you can buy worms from online suppliers, it’s more fun to get them from a friend who keeps worms or to hunt them in your own garden. Red worms (Lubricous rubellas) are the worms you most often find in leaf litter and garden beds, but they also hang out in compost piles. Although you can buy or build elaborate multilevel worm composting systems, we’ve come to believe less is more when it comes to worms. Using the drill or the sharp nail and a hammer (the latter is much more difficult — use a drill if you can), create two rows of ventilation holes around the top edge of the bin, starting beneath the lid.
Wet the newspaper strips by placing them in a bowl or bucket and drizzling water over them and stirring until they’re all equally damp. After you’ve added about 4 to 6 inches of newspaper to the bin, add the cardboard pieces and about 2 cups of soil. Theoretically, worms can eat their weight in food scraps each day, but in practice, the amount they eat is highly variable. Put the bin in a safe, quiet place out of direct sunlight, otherwise the sun will shine through the plastic walls and irritate the worms. Aim to keep the contents of the bin always at that magic consistency: moist as a wrung-out sponge.
The deeper the contents of the bin, the greater the danger of the bottom portion of the bin turning swampy and anaerobic.
When the contents of the bin start looking more black than anything else, it’s time to harvest some castings.
Add fresh wet newspaper and soil to the bin, just as you did at the beginning, to rebuild after harvest. These days it is easier and cheaper to buy unhealthy junk food than it is to find and buy healthy, nourishing foods our bodies need and crave. Dirt Dynasty is now home to approximately 160,000 African Night Crawlers, aka Eudrilus Eugeniae.
They spend their day foraging around in their bins and consuming more than their body weight in organic matter. Worms aren’t exactly fussy (OK, worms can be fussy), but they do require daily feeding and the right conditions in order to thrive. Since worms are cold-blooded, we carefully monitor the temperature to keep it in a comfortable range.
Kitchen vermiculture allows you to create a nutrient-rich fertilizer from worm castings that you can use in your garden.
The first step to this easy and economical waste removal system is the creation of worm composting bins for indoors.
They like a dark, warm area with moist, fluffy bedding like damp shredded newspaper, straw or leaves. If you cover the bin, make sure there are air holes for vermicomposting under sinks or any area that is appropriate. Over a few weeks you will see that the food scraps and bedding are broken down and clean smelling.

The cycle is virtually unbreakable as long as you keep the bin clean, food scraps small and appropriate, and have a healthy colony of red wigglers.
Though castings are often called fertilizer, they’re actually not very high in nitrogen, but they are full of plant-supporting nutrients. Worms don’t consume indiscriminately the way a compost pile does, and they can only eat so much at a time. Worms thrive in temperatures between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and those conditions are usually found in the cool parts of a house instead of outdoors.
The worms you want aren’t the big, fat night crawlers; they’re the smaller red or purplish worms that live close to the surface of the soil, usually in leaf litter or in cool compost.
Compost worms (Eugenia fetid) are about the same size and can be red, too, but they also come in purple and tiger-striped varieties. Use plain newspaper, not shiny inserts, which may contain harmful dyes, and not office paper, which has been bleached.
Add the shreds to the worm bin by the handful, squeezing them first to make sure they’re damp, not sodden. In the first few weeks, you may have to use a spray bottle to mist the paper to keep it from drying out. Spread them out on a tray and let them air-dry for a few days, and then sift them through a screen or colander. With Grow REAL Food we're on a mission to find and share easy and inexpensive ways to grow healthy, organic, non-GMO REAL FOOD at home!
Subscribe to our newsletter and receive occasional emails loaded with ideas and tips about growing your own food. Worms are not pests, they are the reason the best-tasting crops taste as juicy and fresh as they possible they can. One of the reasons you can count on the quality of Dirt Dynasty worm castings is the fact we feed the worms some of the best organic soil in the world – black organic peat humus. And you can bet if some researcher shows worms poop more if they’re read bedtime stories every night, Kris and Hardy will get out their Cat in the Hat books and read to them.
In no time you will be feeding the little guys your kitchen scraps, reducing waste and building a soil amendment that is of amazing benefit to your plants. They can eat their body weight in food daily and their castings are a rich fertilizer for plants. On average, you need one square foot of surface for every pound of material you collect for under sink composting with worms. But, as we said above, castings are a fantastic resource, so it’s well worth keeping both a worm bin and a compost bin. If you’re willing to be patient, you only need to hunt up about a cup of them to get started.
If you have a paper shredder, run the newspaper through that, because the finer the paper shreds, the better.
A new bin doesn’t eat nearly as much as an established bin, no matter how many worms you start with.
More often than not, the seeds will end up mixed in with the castings and thus could sprout wherever you spread the castings. Keep the lid on tight if you have dogs in the house — canines don’t have discriminating palates.
If you’re having trouble keeping the bin dry enough, you could cut a window out of the lid, and then use duct tape to secure a piece of window screen over the hole. The simplest way is to stop adding fresh food for a while and let the worms finish up the little scraps and bits dotting the bin. This will catch any remaining food scraps and give the castings a nice granular texture that’s easy to spread. The humus, along with a carefully formulated food ration, form the backbone of our castings. Mail-order worms are understandably freaked out on arrival (as freaked out as worms can be) and will often try to escape from the bin their first few nights before they’ve calmed down. Make a trap for them by burying something tasty in your garden beds or in an area rich with leaf litter. Eugenia fetid is the type sold for worm bins, but Lubricous rubellas adapt to life in the bin very well. To make sure the bin doesn’t leak and can be kept anywhere, don’t put any holes in the bottom of the container.

Our dog once nosed off the lid on our worm bin and ate half of the contents before we stopped him.
If you have a ton of worms and 6 to 8 inches doesn’t seem like enough room, it’s time to start a second bin, give your extra worms to friends who want to start their own bins, or feed some spares to your chickens. If all is well, eventually you should see tiny baby worms in the mix, as well as the little lemon-shaped beads that are worm cocoons.
When there’s not much recognizable food in the bin, put a big portion of something delicious — a proven favorite such as squash — at one end of the bin. The worms feed on the ration and organic matter in the humus, and the nutrients are then digested in their intestine and excreted as worm castings. If they did, you can increase the amount, but be careful not to overfeed or you will have a stinky mess.
They can also be mixed with potting soil, in concentrations of up to 20 percent castings, to make an extra-rich growing medium. If you don’t have yard trimmings to worry about, worms can handle a good deal of your day-to-day food waste — such as coffee grounds, wilted lettuce, stale bread and so on — and give you castings in return that you can apply to container plants. Lack of bottom drainage means you’ll have to be vigilant to make sure the contents don’t get too soggy, because there’s nowhere for water to go.
We don’t know whether he was more interested in the worms or the rotten food, but he swallowed it all. Dilute the resulting liquid at the ratio of 1 part tea to 4 parts water and use it to water container plants and fruit trees. Worms are also light-sensitive, so we keep their bins covered so they can feel comfortable coming to the surface of the dirt once in a while. It must be bare cardboard, not paper coated, because again, that paper may contain bleaches or inks.
If you add more food than the worms can handle, it will lead to bad smells and possible invasions by undesirable insects.
Proceed cautiously, even if you have lots of worms, because they may not want to eat much at first. If your bin is outside, lock down the lid with a bungee cord to keep raccoons and skunks and other insectivores out at night.
If it seems to be getting soggy and dense, mix in a few handfuls of dry shredded newspaper to dry it out and fluff it up.
Wait a few days, then scoop out the material on the opposite side of the bin and pile it on the bin lid. You can use it in your vegetable beds, but they should already be well nourished by compost and thus don’t need it as much. If you have cold winters and mild summers, the worms could spend the summer outdoors and the winter indoors. If lots of worms are hanging out on the sides or lid of the bin — or trying to wiggle out the air holes — it’s definitely too wet. As your bin matures, you may find that other critters — decomposers such as mites, pot worms and tiny black beetles — will make it their home as well.
Or in the opposite situation, they could come in for hot summers and stay out for mild winters.
Bury these offerings about an inch under the soil or leaf litter and come back in about three days. If you start with only a handful of worms, they’ll start breeding as soon as they settle into their new home, and you’ll be up to speed in a couple of months. Worms really like corrugated cardboard — they snuggle up in the channels, so tear it into worm-size chunks roughly 4 inches square. While it’s important to feed them plenty if you want them to breed, don’t worry much about them going hungry. There will still be worms in the mix, and they’ll dive down to the bottom center of the mound to hide from the light.
You can then harvest the castings from the top and sides of the mound and transfer them to a bucket or bowl. All of the newspaper, cardboard and food scraps will be reduced to black gold: worm castings.

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