Although I didn’t mention this to Susan, there are ways to cut aluminum materials with blades designed to cut wood.
Years ago I purchased a now-discontinued Freud TK707 non-ferrous blade, and it’s served me quite well.
Freud and Diablo are my preferred miter saw blade brands, but I would trust Oshlun too as a 3rd brand choice.
Since you are cutting aluminum (soft metal) you could definitely get away with it but I still wouldn’t recommend it. Would something like that, or a non-ferrous blade on a radial arm saw work for cutting aluminum soffit?
If it’s thin material that you could potentially cut with tin snips, then a non-ferrous saw blade on a radial arm saw should work well. A fine tooth steel tooth plywood blade mounted in reverse will also cut corrugated aluminum pretty well. You can cut up to 5 sheets at a time, but make sure to keep a FIRM HAND on the saw—it will want to jump and buck. I watched a long conveyor line made up with nothing but aluminum L brackets cut with a miter saw. I recall us buying Freud and their Diablo brand blades too for aluminum field cutting of extrusions – but we cut most heavy plate on a dedicated plate saw in the shop.
One issue with soft metals is the tendency of chips to weld onto and get stuck on the teeth or saw blade. Back in the dark ages when I started my career – aircraft factory tool rooms often had pots of hot lye to clean off aluminum from tooling. Cutting standard aluminum extrusions on a miter saw is easy and safe if you use the proper blade. One site that discusses how stuff works advises against using a metal-cutting blade in the same saw as the type used for wood.
Re: my comment regarding differences in motor housing between wood-cutting and metal-cutting saws, please note that that comment pertains to circular saws. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. This portable circular saw blade sharpener allows any craftsman to sharpen multiple blades in one sitting! I do have a small Evolution metal-cutting chop saw (here are some general opinions of the brand), but continue to use my Freud blade for certain things.
The correct tool to use would be an abrasive chop saw, a metal cold saw, a metal band saw, a sawzall (with metal cutting blade), a jigsaw (with metal cutting blade), or a hand saw.

In the best of all possible worlds (to quote Voltaire) we’d use the right dedicated tool for the job.
Also make sure to wear safety glasses, as there will be a large amount of aluminum sawdust flying around if you’re doing quantity.
Not sure if they had a specific aluminum saw blade, but it worked just fine even for a big job like that.
Constructed of a die cast aluminum base and indexing arm, this saw blade sharpener is durable but lightweight. Morse Metal Devil blades for both aluminum and steel and can vouch for their clean and cool cuts. While a metal-cutting saw has a collection bin to prevent metal chips from getting into the machine, a woodcutting saw isn’t designed this way. Features include a motor block that tilts 25 degrees left and right to adjust for different blade tooth configurations. From reading these, it seems that you have to be a master machinist to even have a chance to make it work. If not it is very dangerous if the blade suddenly stops-the saw blows up-breaks off the base with cheap castings.
I put an MK Morse CSM860AC Metal Devil 8″ on an old Ryobi miter saw and added a plywood support table to cut structural aluminum struts up to 3 inch square. This saw blade sharpener is great for any metal or wood worker that wants to make sure their circular saw blades last! Two things changed my mind.First, I recently had some engineered wood flooring installed by a pro at my house. Since I have my woodworking shop in the garage, the installer asked if he could use my saws.
I only use irwin marathon 40 tooth thin kerf blades 15-20 bucks and they will last over 300 cuts in solid 3″ aluminum bar but only if you add 1 drop of oil before each cut on center of blade bolt. By the time I got back to my shop, two of my good blades were shot (a 12-inch 96-teeth and a 10-inch 50-teeth). I tried to hone them, but they were too far gone.I was even less happy when I was told my my local sharpening shop that it would cost almost $60 to sharpen these two blades ($20 for the 10-inch and $34 for the 12-inch, plus tax). Thanks to him for this great video.So I took my chance (not much risk for $32 after using a 20% supercoupon), and I am delighted.
It took me half an hour to go through the basic adjustments and set-up the sharpener as shown on the video, and less than that to sharpen the first blade. After looking closely at the blade, I saw that the teeth faces were clean but the edges still ragged.

This time I changed my method and used the click-stop to pre-position the blade, then simply rotated the teeth into the diamond wheel for 2-3 seconds (instead of using the click-stop and bringing the diamond wheel into the tooth).
I later honed the teeth with a small diamond file to eliminate some of the roughness created by the coarse diamond blade, but that did not really improve the cut quality, so I would not worry about it (and the diamond blade will get finer as it wears). I then went on to my expensive 96-teeth blade, and it came out perfect, with no scoring at all on the cuts. Overall, it is a lot simpler to initially set-up than most power woodworking tools, and the setup required to adjust the grinding angles for each blade are simple to do and would be required even with the most expensive professional sharpeners. Only after looking at the box at a local HF store did I determine it was also capable of sharpening carbide. I waited for a sale price and could not wait to get my sharpener home to try out.Yes, the machine is a bear to set up for a particular blade, but once you get everything in order, the sharpening part goes fairly quickly. I picked out a pretty dull 80T 10" blade and, using the carbide wheel, put a nice new surface on each tooth. I even wire wheeled the blade beforehand to remove the built-up sawdust resin that accumulates on a used blade. Instead of each tooth surface being smoothly polished as it was when new, the newly sharpened surface looked like it had been sharpened with 80 grit sandpaper. I realize it was finer than that, but keep in mind I was looking at it under magnification.
Bottom line is that the sharpener did not work on carbide blades as I had expected and I packed it up and returned it a few days later. One would be to make the set-up a simpler process and make it so that you can dial in specific angles instead of trying to eyeball it and then tighten up some screw. Second, and more importantly, would be to have a diamond wheel with a much finer grit to actually polish the carbide instead of coarsely grind it.
You can't do a good job using just one stone.I had to give this sharpener only one star because I found it totally useless. I marked the front of each tooth with a marker to tell if I was sharpening the tooth evenly and completely.
I next sharpened 3 12" carbide toothed compound table saw blades worth about $40 each.

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Comments to «What saw blade for hardwood»

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