With its flat, circular spinning blade doing the hard work, the tablesaw can make all sorts of cuts, among them grooves, dadoes, rabbets, and a variety of other woodworking joints.
Because so much tablesaw run time is spent ripping and crosscutting, it's especially important to have good work habits while making these two fundamental cuts. Use the blade cover, splitter, and pawls--The saw must have a guard that includes a cover, splitter, and pawls. Kickback occurs most often during a rip cut, usually when the workpiece twists away from the rip fence just enough to contact the teeth of the back portion of the blade; those are the teeth just coming up through the insert after traveling under the saw. With a splitter behind the blade, kickback is less likely to occur because the workpiece can't easily contact the back teeth of the blade.
Ejection occurs most often when ripping a relatively narrow piece, just after the sawblade cuts the piece free. A warped board or a board with uneven edges can be difficult to control when ripping or crosscutting. When making rip cuts, stand to the left of the blade, with your left hip against the front rail. The most common crosscut is made with the miter gauge set at 90° to the miter-gauge slot, resulting in a square cut. A typical miter-gauge fence is relatively short, so it doesn't offer a lot of support to long boards. Push the board through the blade—When everything is aligned, use your left hand to hold the board firmly against the miter-gauge fence until the cut is completed.
Pull back the board—Once the board has been cut, continue to hold the board firmly against the fence, and pull both the board and the gauge back to the starting position. Oftentimes, as the board and miter gauge are pulled back, the spinning blade will slightly touch the cut edge of the board and cause a little extra splintering. To save time, clamp a stop block to the rip fence when you need to cut several short pieces of wood to the same length.
Add a stop block to the auxiliary miter-gauge fence when cutting longer boards to the same length—Make sure the distance from the block to the blade matches the length you want. When you're cutting several boards to the same length, a stop block clamped to the auxiliary miter-gauge fence will ensure uniformity. These tools are a quick way to cut tapers for table legs, or almost anything you want to taper.
I did exactly what spencer did, the oak board kicked back to the left of the blade hitting my left hand which was not near the blade. Most of my ripping is done on a saw with a stock feeder, hopefully soon all my ripping will be done with a SLR soon enough. I don't normally talk to people like I talk to you, however you have the little immature schoolgirl mentality so this is new to me. A ex-coworker set ours up on top of a Werner work platform, on the edge of a 4' retaining wall (uncertain where he expected outfeed to go).


I think it says on the saw, I adjusted mine this summer and remember it being on it somewhere.
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However, the tablesaw most commonly is called upon to do just two basic tasks: make wide boards narrower, a process called ripping, and make long boards shorter, a process called crosscutting.
Most tablesaws have similar types of controls and accessories, no matter if they are small benchtop units, contractor's saws (shown), or heavy-duty, floor-standing cabinet machines.
After all, when used properly, a good tablesaw can produce remarkably smooth and accurate cuts safely and with little effort.
So before making any rip-or crosscut, make sure the saw is in good working order and properly adjusted. When that happens, those back teeth can grab the workpiece, lifting it and instantly launching it, usually right back at the operator.
At that point, if the piece should tip, twist, or bend, it can become pinched between the blade and the rip fence. Not only will you get smooth ripcuts, but you’ll also be able to get them with a better degree of safety. For longer parts that require a narrow ripcut, clamp a short auxiliary fence to the rip fence. A shopmade L-shaped fence mounted to the rip fence creates extra space between the blade cover and the rip fence, making it easier to feed the stock, especially when a tall push block is used. However, when the front of the push block reaches the cover, you’ll have to stop pushing and go to the back of the saw. Use your left hand to hold the board against the miter-gauge fence and slide the gauge forward with your right hand until the leading edge of the board almost touches the blade. The holding force you apply should be straight back, and your fingers should be at least 6 in. Once back to the starting point, you can relax your hold on the board and shut off the saw.
Position the fence so that the distance from the block to the blade equals the needed length measurement.
Also, the table of the saw should be flat, with any deviation limited to no more than 0.010 in. The rip fence, the tablesaw blade, and the miter-gauge slots must be parallele to one another. The cover itself acts as a barrier, helping to block any misdirected hand or finger from contacting the spinning blade. But a splitter behind the blade helps prevent the workpiece from contacting the back teeth, so kickback is less likely to happen. And if the piece is not supported by a push block or pawls, the force of the spinning blade can send the piece straight back at warp speed.


If the flat surface or straight edge is missing, the stock needs to be handplaned or jointed. That’s important, especially when you consider that most tablesaw accidents occur during ripcuts.
At this point, use one or two hands as needed to align the sawblade with the cut line on the board.
Then the fence is positioned so that the distance from the block to the blade equals the length measurement you need. To avoid binding the cutoff piece between the blade and the stop block, which could cause kickback, the block must be far enough in front of the blade so that the board isn't touching the block during the cut.
After that, clamp the stop block to the fence, making sure the distance from the block to the blade matches the length you want. To avoid that problem, use a tall push block, which puts your hand well above the cover as the stock is pushed along. Once at the back, you can complete the final few inches of the cut by pulling the narrow piece through the blade.
To avoid kickback, the block must be far enough from the blade so that the board isn’t touching the block when it starts being cut by the blade. Then, one piece at a time, butt the square end of the board against the block and make the cut. With the shortest edge of the board bearing against the rip fence, the board easily can twist away from the fence and into the side of the blade, an invitation to kickback. A handle on top helps you push the sled while making sure the edge of the sled stays against the rip fence. Use your right hand to push the gauge toward the back of the saw, and feed the board at a steady speed. Once the end of the board has moved past your left hand, it is a good habit to remove that hand from the saw table. Stop pushing once the cut is finished, but continue to hold the board firmly against the miter-gauge fence. So if I’m cutting a big board while in splinter-phobic mode, I simply shut off the saw before removing the board and pulling back the gauge. But because most people are right-handed, the majority of tablesaw users push the miter gauge with their right hand, so the gauge has to go into the left slot.



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