Ok well I have a home made table saw and I'm using a craftsman 10in 13or maybe 15 amp motor and the blade I have now is way to hard to push threw the wood now it is a little dull but I think it's because I bought the incorrect type for what I need because it's hard to cut threw even regular pine. And I understand the science behind the tooth count and what not and less teeth =more room for chips whilst in the cut. If you can afford two blades, the one above, and a 24 or 30 tooth thin kerf rip blade would be a good combination. The higher tooth count blades are really finishing blades, intended for cleaner cuts when crosscutting plywood, etc.
As Jim mentioned, ideally you would have two blades: One for cutting across the gran (crosscuts) and one for cutting in the same direction as the grain (ripping). Ninh i have a Craftsman table saw and it dont have a huge motor so to get the best power i use thin kerf blades. You have seen how safety orientated us old geysers can be but believe me we have many posts here were you can witness mistakes on the saw that resulted in injury even with guys who know better. What the insert is going to do is support the wood under the edge thats getting cut and prevent tearout. Your saw will have the easiest time with a 6" dado set, but Vaughn's suggestion for a box joint set is right on the money if you'll mainly be doing box joints with it. A consumer who comes into contact with a spinning table saw blade equipped with SawStop will suffer a slight nick or cut, as opposed to a serious injury or amputation. Large tool manufacturering companies have refused to incorporate the SawStop technology into their saws, claiming it is too expensive. Recently, a federal appeals court upheld a $1.5 million verdict for Carlos Osorio, a Massachusetts man injured in a construction site accident involving a Ryobi table saw. The Consumer Product Safety Commission has taken recent action that may force saw companies to adopt the SawStop technology. According to the CPSC, there are about 67,300 table saw injuries annually, costing about $2.36 billion per year. Power tool manufacturers say that most of the safety measures would raise the price of saws significantly and in some cases may quadruple the cost of the tools. I have to say that if you wear eyewear protection, earmuffs, gloves, stay concentrated, use TWO push sticks, use a feather board, and keep all the anti-kicking devices in place the risk of a finger injury is null. The Legal Examiner offers both bloggers and readers the opportunity to share their thoughts and opinions on all things law. The one I use makes it fairly easy for me to take the whole assembly off, if I need to run something extra tall through the saw.
I further modified the shoot by adding some broom hair (taken from a shop dust broom) to the inside of the shoot.
I might one day go for a overhead guard mainly for the dust collection that's built into them, but in my 23 years of shop experience in Canada I've never seen a guard on a tablesaw! If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question.

With this one all purpose blade you can RIP & CROSSCUT 1? - 2? ROCKHARDS and SOFTWOODS resulting in a smooth as sanded surface virtually without splinters. Northern Tool + Equipment, Generators, pressure washers, air compressors, power tools, trailers, heaters, stoves, food processing, go karts, and more! We elect new Moderators every April and October and vote on any new or revised forum rules. But I just need something that easily cuts threw the wood and a name brand that's not retardely hard to find. To get a really good cut and incedible bang for my buck i use the Freud Diablo 50 tooth combination blade most of the time. I am a weekend warrior, were i retired and had more time to devote to woodworking then i would be looking to buy higher end blades take more time doing my projects and attain better results.
Do you have plans to change that or do you never have the intention of using a dado blade or blades of varying thickness? The splitter will stop a board from binding on the blade and possibly getting thrown back in your face or worse. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, there are nearly 60,000 blade injuries every year. They also say that the safety features already standard on most table saws should provide adequate protection. Please consider leaving a comment or subscribing to the feed to have future articles delivered to your feed reader.
From news on current legislative efforts to practical guidance on everyday legal issues, The Legal Examiner will have it covered. Depending on your dust collection unit, I'd expect all to be effective at picking up dust for cuts that allow for material on both sides of the blades.
The hair sticks down about an inch or so below the shoot in front and wraps around each side about 3 inches. Being a man who likes to get creative with my tools, jigs, fixtures, etc, I was quite impressed with your guard. I use the factory insert as a template and use a pattern cutting router bit to duplicate the factory insert.
The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.
My question is what type style brand whatever should I get I don't need a ridiculous clean chip free finish.
Both blades produce very smooth cuts when used in the right direction, and the 24 tooth even does a presentable job on crosscuts. It also helps to keep the wood against the fence if you are cutting something like sheet goods and if you do this (ROB!!!! This suit reminds me of an attempt a few years back to make manufacturers of light aircraft to be liable for their products for up to 25 years after sale. I've used the Excalibur and it seems to do the trick, but there is the Delta, Pennstate, Beismeyer, and that new HTC Brett Guard.

If you make a slight trim cut, the width of the blade or less, the wood chips and dust will not be drawn into the dust shoot. To save time and stock up on inserts, I make them a dozen or so at a time, laminating a large sheet of Baltic birch with any solid colored leftover laminate, before ripping and crosscutting several oversized blanks. The insert is machined to be a whisker over the thickness of the saw blade kerf and is beveled along the length (height) of the front edge so that the stock doesn't catch a square leading edge of the splitter as it is pushed past the blade and into the splitter.
The other day I was cutting oak stair treads on the saw while my partner was varnishing stair treads about twenty feet away. But when you cutting ply, if you an idiot like i was and forget to change your insert on the table saw and then cut ply expect to have tearout no matter the blade. What you can also do is given you have access to precision is to make your own splitter like you can see in the picture below. I’m a life-long woodworker from a family of contractors and I teach in a university scene shop. How could the manufacturers be responsible for a plane after 25 years of use and maintanence at the hands of potentially many owners?
The Diablo set is a solid dado choice if you want to buy it from HD, but I'd advise against waisting $50 for the Avanti set. Certain cuts require temporarily disabling safety features, especially those using special jigs. I modified my guard so that when it is down and the blade is fully raised, there is only the blade and about an inch to the front and about two inches to the rear, past the blade which is covered.
To make the kerf for the insert to fit into, I first set the saw fence up so that when the new insert blank is pushed along the fence and into the blade, (as in ripping) the saw kerf will be made precisely where it needs to be after the insert is installed into the saw table. I made it shorter in front so that I could see the leading edge of the blade better and so that I could keep control of the stock for a little longer, while feeding, yet still have the protection of the guard to keep me out of the blade zone. Of course, you'll have a different insert in the table before you rip the kerf in the new insert and you will need to make this a "stop" cut, shutting down the saw motor when you reach the place on the new insert where you want to stop cutting. I made it shorter in the back so that I wouldn't have to push the stock so far past the back of the blade before clearing the back of the guard.
Two identical table saws with identical dust collectors doing equal material processing jobs daily - dust collector bag hooked up to Excalibur needs to be emptied every 3 days, whereas dust collector bag hooked up to Exactor need to be emptied about every 10 or more days. The original guard was so long in the rear that I had to walk around to the back of the saw to retrieve fed material. As time passes and more people buy SawStop, its own deficiencies and accident rate will become visible.

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