Portable swing blade sawmills buyers guide, A swing blade sawmill circular blade swings vertical portable swing blade sawmills 2. Portable mills- advantages swing blade mills, Portable mills- advantages swing blade mills band fast sharpening. During the next cut there are no nails encountered, but the cutting rate has slowed somewhat and there’s a little more heat on the finished cut. There are two basic ways to sharpen bandsaw blades, mechanically, with the use of a machine, or machines designed to sharpen and reset bands, and manually, with the use of hand tools, or hand power tools. However, in the spirit of D-I-Ying, it is possible to hand sharpen your bandsaw blades with either simple hand tools or hand held power tools. The basic anatomy of any tooth on any wood cutting saw blade is pretty much the same, be it a circular saw blade, a jig saw blade, or in this case, a bandsaw blade. For the accompanying image we can see the various parts that make up the cutting edge of a blade. For our purposes we are going to be concerned with the TIP, the FACE and the FLANK of the teeth.
The FACE of the tooth are those portions on either side of the tooth just back from the tip.
When you are sharpening any tool, bandsaw blades, circular blades, even axe blades, it is important to try and maintain the integrity of the blades original edges without changing the angles or geometry.
Sometimes when you are sharpening, you will only need to address portions of the band that have been dulled through encounters with foreign, non-wood objects. When sharpening a bandsaw blade there are five parts of the cutting edge that need to be addressed.
We’ve already mentioned the sharpening stone method for squaring the cutting edge of the tip. On a more powerful and efficient note, using a small hand held pencil grinder, Dremel™ tool, or flexible shaft tool, can speed up the process considerably once you get the hang of it. Once you’ve got your tooling together, the next thing is to determine how to secure the blade so you can actually work on it. Depending on the blade and your sawing regimen, sometimes you only need to sharpen the tip and the outside faces of the cutting edges.
Wear eye protection – The bits being removed may be small, but your eyes are still no match for steel. Wear a dusk mask – A respirator works too, but a simple dust mask will keep you from breathing in the metal dust and the other contaminants that are also removed in the process.
Another good tip is to put a thin strip of wood or soft plastic on the table that the blade can bite into while you are holding it for sharpening.
Use good lighting and get a chair or stool to sit on, this takes some concentration and the ability to sit for a period of time. Whether you sharpen the blade on or off the saw, the process is the same so it can often come down to what you’re more comfortable with.
Although you may have already run the sharpening stone against the topside of the tooth, you will still want to hit each one briefly with a file or a Dremel™ tool, at a slight, backwards angle from the top of the tip, to expose new metal not just on the very top, but down the backside of the tooth, towards the gullet, as well.
If you are using a Dremel™ or other tool with an abrasive, if you can find a small, appropriately sized sanding drum, that would work well. Typically, you will probably not need to address the gullet unless you have sharpened the band to such a point that there is a change in the gullet depth and the tooth rake angle.
If you do dress the gullet area, keep the edges of it flat and perpendicular to the sides of the band.
Hello Mark, Thank you for interest I have forwarded your contact information off to our account sales team. I've been trying to find time to get involved in this thread and figure out what everyone was talking about.
My own personal experience with wood and hand planes cutting at York or middle pitch indicates 20? of clearance is barely adequate unless you want your depth of cut severely limited to less than a couple thousands of an inch or so.

I'd sure like to see locate the source saying 7? is all that is necessary for a hand plane.
Also, it is not so easy to take images that convey the info in a clear manner since the surfaces are so reflective. To obtain this camber I applied 25 extra strokes on the 1000 Shapton stone to each side of the bevel (then moved on to a few strokes on the 5000, 8000, and strop). And while we are here, anyone like to give a rundown on blade camber or stright for BU jointer, BU jack and the two smoothers from LV.
With the current camber you have on your LA jack blade, do you think you can pull a 5-6 thou shaving and still have the edge feather to nothing? Wood-Mizer is the world leader in the portable sawmill industry, also providing resaws, edgers, saw blades, and industrial equipment for forestry professionals. Wood-Mizer offers a wide range of portable sawmills, secondary processing equipment, sawmill blades, and sawmill blade maintenance equipment. Sometimes faster than others, depending on the material you are cutting, even if there are no nails or other foreign objects involved. Done correctly, by hand or machine, you can typically get 4-5 sharpening out of a single band before the tooth geometry changes significantly. On a onesy-twosy basis, buying a dedicated sharpener and the resetter that usually goes along with it doesn’t really make sense.
That is to say they should all have the same distance from the back edge of the blade and strike the material at the same point.
They usually run from just behind the tooth tip to a point where the face disappears behind the set of the teeth in front and behind.
When sharpening by hand, while you have care and patience on your side, you also have to reply on good tools and a good eye to keep things straight. Other times you’ll want to grab one of your favourite bevvies, hunker down and do the whole blade.
In addition, you’ll need a flat-edged tool for grinding or filing the cutting faces of the tip, plus a cylindrical grinding or filing tool to sharpen the underside of the tooth tip, and the gullet area.
Some users suggest leaving the blade in the saw (disconnect the power, of course), while others remove the bands and have a simple, homemade jig to hold the blade during sharpening. Other times you’ll want to sharpen the whole blade, tooth-by-tooth, cleaning up the gullet and the underside of the tip.
If you perform these operations on the blade while it is still on the saw, you know what’ll happen if it starts accidentally.
The edges of these areas is feathered from the thicker middle of the tooth to the thinner, inside edge of the gullet. Please contact me by email and i can provide detail on the size of double bands we need to sharpen.
This method is not suited to the traditional BU method(if one could call it that with such a short history) that involves very specific microbevel angles via a honing guide.
Maintaining adequate clearance is necessary in both wood and metal working because of something called visco-elastic deflection. This one is used to assess camber as per David Charlesworth's method, that is, when dragging a wooden edge over the blade, I cannot make a shaving at the sides but I can make a .002 shaving at the centre. In addition to an experienced and growing team of sawmill consultants and customer service technicians, the Wood-Mizer Headquarters provides a 17,000 square foot showroom for visitors to see live demonstrations of Wood-Mizer products from portable and industrial sawmills to blade maintenance equipment.
Woods with a lot of pitch, dense hardwoods, frozen wood (it happens!) some wood is even more abrasive than others.
So one rule of thumb to consider would be that coarser blades with larger, fewer teeth probably make more sense to sharpen than those with smaller, finer teeth which are far more time consuming not to mention hard on your eyes and your body. One might think that the time required to resharpen dull blades might be a false economy or a lost cause, but with a little practice and the right techniques that work for you, it can be quite quick and save a lot of money. The GULLET of the blade is important in that it is what removes the chips and sawdust from the cut, keeping the way clear for the teeth.

One effective method of doing this is to hold a sharpening stone up against the toothed edge while moving the blade backwards by hand. The cutting edge of the tooth FACE is the edge that is on the inside of the gullet, not the FLANK or trailing edge of the tooth. Then there’s the underside of the tip, to the point where it joins the gullet, and each side of the tip and finally, the gullet itself. Both of these operations can be done with flat and round hand files, some people have even adapted chainsaw filing jigs to accommodate their bandsaw blades.
Either way, keeping the blade in position will allow you to use both hands; One for the tool, the other as a rest or steady. Dressing the gullet with a cylindrical abrasive can maintain the gullet geometry and remove any build up to ensure smooth chip and sawdust removal. The science is that the tip of the tooth digs in, followed by the cutting edges just behind it. This can be removed either with a little solvent during the sharpening process or by using a small wire brush on the Dremel™ tool.
This is deflection caused by resistance to the cut which results in materials being compressed and deformed ahead of the cutting edge. I've worked a lot of metal and have no doubt that even aluminum deflects less than wood ahead of a cutting edge.
I also once honed a 40? micro bevel on my own low angle bevel-up type smooth plane and tried to take a heavy cut. I've been wondering if cambering obtuse BU irons on these planes would allow a deeper cut or just limit the width of cut. In addition, my digital caliper's battery is dead, so I can only estimate the thickness of the shavings.
The location is also home to the Wood-Mizer museum where you can see the very first Wood-Mizer sawmill ever sold! When performing a sharpening, check the gullets for sap and other foreign debris buildup, remove and clean accordingly. The main purpose of the tooth FLANK is to support the thinner cutting edge FACE against the pressures of cutting. If you use hand files, make sure that the round one you choose (for the gullets), fits or matches the shape of the existing gullet.
Meaning, if you are sharpening a tooth that sets to the right, start from the left side and go across, to the right.
Keeping the gullet clear and gum-free will increase blade life and make for smoother cutting. After the material is sheared, it returns to close to its original shape standing back up and growing slightly in height. These relief angles would be greater for A-2 or O-1 steel given the lower red hardness of these steels. Both are bevelled (hollow ground) at 25 degrees so that I may hone them freehand on my Shaptons. Armed with this information, have a look around the shop and you’ll likely find the tools you need to get things up and running smoothly, again. If I just let it ride on the surface the spring back from visco-elastic deflection made the depth of cut self limiting. The second (and the subject under the spotlight) is cambered for use as a traditional jack plane. Actually, I have a third blade as well, and this is bevelled at 50 degrees so that the plane may be used as a high angle panel plane.

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