I do understand that I gave up some capacity by not going with a radial arm – but I figured anything that is too big for this saw can be cut on the table saw. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. The 2 A?" dust port connects to standard dust collection systems, and helps get rid of the dust and trash that accompanies every carpentry job. One of the best features of the 10 Inch Rigid Saw is its extra tall left side table extension.
As a carpenter, many different elements must be considered before deciding on a good miter saw. A sliding Miter saw is a specialty tool, in that you can do everything it can do with a skill saw and a table saw.
I will warn however that if you are new to using tools, you need to learn how to use a table saw safely. Anyway, my first miter saw, purchased three years ago, was a little Ryobi unit that I paid $99 bucks for at Home Depot. My second miter saw was a 10-inch slider made by GMC that I picked up at Lowe’s for $190.
My third miter saw was the one I am reviewing here: a Ridgid, 12-inch model MS1290LZ sliding compound model.
My first two miter saws were mounted on a $100 Wolfcraft stand that had folding legs and two almost useless wheels. The MS1290LZ itself has some great features, most notably the ability to miter out to 62 degrees on either side. The upper parts of the fence are adjustable for width, which is a good thing, since the offset, belt-driven motor can still bump those sections on the left side when doing extreme miter or bevel cuts. The saw comes with a depth-of-cut adjustment cam mounted on the side, and although I have not used mine, I can see that it is easy to adjust and seems to be built with a reasonable degree of precision. Rather than just have dust spew out of the port in the back (or go into a bag that clogs up almost immediately) I have a 2.5-inch shop-vac hose running from the saw down to a fitting on my shop-built stand. The only other minor problem I encountered with the saw involved the flip-up bevel release lever on the back side. Overall, even though I am a relative newcomer to the hobby, as best I can tell this is a superb miter saw.
Incidentally, I just found my old sales receipt and the price I said I paid in an earlier comment was not $400. Home Depot did locate another saw in the area for me shortly after I had written for my first comment. With the exception of the Festool sliding miter saw, I think that all miter saws, dust collection engineering could use vast improvement. I think a lot of reviews are done too quickly in that we buy a tool and love it, totally happy with it and a month goes by and the problems start. This dust port does an excellent job directing the debris into the dust collection system of your choice, be it the standard dust bag or another receptacle, and is easy to remove when not needed. Injuries can happen when a carpenter needs to stop the blade immediately for one reason or another, or thinks the blade is off when it actually isn't. No longer will you have to continually measure and space out the same cut, checking for a precise length. Dual Bevel Sliding Miter Saw has a powerful 15Amp motor with a soft start and constant speed control for stable cutting in high load conditions. A miter saw is potentially much safer than a table saw, but it will not replace all of the functions that a table saw will do. If you are cutting lengths of shelving narrow enough to be cut on a sliding miter, then it will suffice. Once I retired I told my wife that I wanted to get a few tools so that it would be easier to do home-improvement projects. While not a pro-grade woodworker or carpenter by any means, I do have an ability to spot quality in consumer products. I ended up removing the top part of that stand and installing it on a shop-built stand made of 2×4s, with four 4-inch caster-style wheels on the leg bottoms.


It can also bevel 45 degrees to either side, and the movement of the unit during set ups out to those angles is quite smooth.
While I am sure that it works OK, I passed on installing it, because it is not something that would work well for me with the daytime outdoor work I usually do. Most competing versions require the user to wind and wind the clamp knob to get it into position.
The cam also doubles as the lock-down clamp when transporting the unit via the handle on top of the assembly.
The location of the feed end of the dust port and the fact that the blade always sits in the same relation to the workpiece and the port allows for good dust routing. These vary in length and I can quickly remove or remove and replace them by means of a drilled hole and wing nut I installed in the bottom of the dust port entry. I can connect a small, GMC dust-collector unit to that fitting via a 4-inch hose and it will blow the dust out into the grass-free, wooded lot that surrounds my workshop. The fitting it snugged down against was not machined all that smooth, so the lever was a bit stiff to move.
It is not small enough and light enough to be a tossable, do-all jobsite tool, but for those who want a shop miter saw (or one that can be rolled out onto a deck), it is probably pretty much a state-of-the-art item.
Incidentally, the photo of the unit fairly clearly shows that dust scoop I mentioned in the review.
I could probably live with the off-center characteristic (which I guess all lasers of that rotational type exhibit), but my main beef is that in order to use it and get the wood aligned properly you have to have the blade spinning.
It may be that Ridgid (or the Chinese outfit that makes this item) cut some corners to save money with later production unts, which might explain the low-price involved with this sale. One magazine specializes in fine woodworking, and their people are not particularly fond of miter saws in any form.
Along with all of the standard features of a Ridgid saw, there are a few new additions on the 10" that users might want to take note of: the dust port, the table extension, the blade brake and the marking surface.
This blade brake eliminates the problem, and gives users yet another reason to get this miter saw. Make fast and precise adjustments with the upfront bevel lock control and miter lock lever for quick angle adjustments. You may also be ripping lumber to different widths provided you don't use off the shelf pre-milled lumber which I do not recommend. My opinion on this matter is that you will get more mileage out of a table saw especially if you are ripping stock. I used it (along with a number of other tools, of course) to build a ramp up to a pre-existing deck so that the disabled lady who owned the deck could drive her wheelchair into her back yard. This is a large item and not a miter saw for users who are not serious about crosscutting, cutting angles, and cutting bevels. This is a heavy, sturdy, non-folding stand that can easily be rolled out onto the big deck adjacent to my small shop out in the back yard. The bevel and miter scales are easy to read and the unit even has a special guide attached to the miter scale that offers settings for cutting crown moldings.
The sliding rails holding the saw assembly are plenty stiff and that assembly moves smoothly as one uses them for longer cuts. In addition, it only turns on when the blade is spinning, which makes it awkward (and maybe even a bit dangerous) to adjust workpieces for accurate, laser-set-up cuts. While the Ridgid has a clamp knob, too, it also has a quick-release feature that allows one to get it into position quickly before tightening the binder.
Note that with its 70-pound weight this saw is not in the same portability category as my little Ryobi unit, or most other miter saws, either. Things are different with sliding-type saws, because the dust-port entry has to be able to clear the workpiece when sliding cuts are done.
I partially dismanted the control and, using a file and an oil stone, managed to polish the contact surface to the point where the reassembled lever works very smoothly. The reason I did not use their stand, other than the cost, is that my home-built stand works just fine for the purpose I use it for.
While the lower guard prevents problems, the noise and spin tend to make it hard to carefully concentrate on the initial alignment work.


The other magazine is more carpentry oriented, and in both cases the Ridgid did not have the kind of blatant defects you outline. Well, the thing had a list price of $595 when it first appeared and later it went down to $549. What attracted me first to this saw was the size of the fence, its massive for a miter saw, my Makita LS1013 had far to small of one. I was actually was looking for a 12” Non sliding saw due to my limited space, but with the stand I can move it around to use.Do you think this is a good price for the two units and are you still happy with your saw? These special features make the 10 Inch Rigid Saw unique and original, and definitely make it the saw of choice.
The quality of the 10 Inch Rigid Miter Saw is impressive; the added features make it an ex cellent tool to have in your carpentry arsenal. But for a beginner to cut only to length with angles, The miter saw would be the tool of choice.
If you are ripping, you have to feed the stock correctly and keep your hands out of the blade.
The CSMS is ideal for cross cutting so if you expect that to be your primary type of cut then the CSMS is idea.
I even know a contractor who owns one, because it is not as likely to be stolen out of his truck as a more upscale unit. I normally just move the blade edge into position just above the workpiece with the saw turned off and determine my cutting point by simple line of sight. It is more of a shop miter saw (or deck miter saw in my case) than an easily transportable tool. The Ridgid was not really that far out of square for coming out of a box, within a half hour is was dead on the money.
The thing tapers at the attachment end and it is held in place by a wing nut running through a hole I drilled in the dust port. As noted, the scoops are easy to remove and replace, thanks to the wing-nut attachment feature.
The saw can do cross cuts in 2x4s or 4x4s, and the carbide blade is the best on the market. It is ideal for the professional user in a wide range of specialties including general contractors, woodworkers, cabinetry and flooring. While not record breaking, this reach is certainly a bit above average for saws of this type. Stupid me should have bought the one that I originally bought 10 years ago that worked flawlessly (except for the fact that I dropped it and broke it) but nooooooo, I thought I’ld save 50 bucks.
In any case, I ended up giving the thing to a neighbor, who manages to get good use out of it.
I passed on getting that, opting for my shop-built version instead, because in my small shop I store my folding jobsite saw under the shop-built stand and the Ridgid version would not allow that to be done. The MS1290LZ is so large and heavy that the company probably figured that most users would mount it on a stand that had its own outriggers. Of course, all bets are off when doing bevel cutting, and you have to be careful that a deflector that works OK at 90 degrees does not get skinned up when the blade is tilted over for bevelling. I’m bringing it back tomorrow because of the extreme blade wobble when it first starts and it sounds like a bucket of nuts and bolts grinding when it runs. With the 12” I do have more versatality when cutting bigger framing material and I do think it is more soliid when doing this type work. I was always always a little apprehensive cutting bigger stock on my Makita do to the scimmpy nature of the fence on that saw.



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Comments to «Review of ridgid miter saw review»

  1. BOY_FIESTA writes:
    With higher carbon heat treated steel both do the same thing.
  2. BubsY writes:
    Bevel (ATB) ground into the for my hammer drill and impact batteries or as a bare tool if you.


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