January 5, 2015 By Gina Luker 4 Comments For a couple of months now I’ve been joining my buddy Jenna to share the basics of using power tools.
Like I explained in the last PT101 post, a table saw is the perfect tool to use when you need to cut down big sheets of wood (like plywood) or long lengths into narrower strips.
When you’re 12 inches or so from the end of the board, use the tool that comes with your saw to push the board the rest of the way so your fingers are not in danger.
Once you’ve pushed the wood all the way through, then turn off the blade and you’re done!
If you have questions, just let me know and I’ll do my best to answer them in the comments below!
Filed Under: DIY About Gina LukerGina Luker is a writer, photographer and lover of all things quirky.
Today we are going to talk about the parts of a table saw and give some tips that can be used for most portable table saws. Guard: The guard is a metal piece that is as long as the table and slides from one side to the other.
The guard has a clamp so you can clamp down the guard on the measurement you need to cut your material. Blade Angle and Lever: The little red arrow shows you the angle of your blade so you can change the angle and cut miters and angles with your material. When you are nearing the end of your cut pay careful attention to make sure the MDF is tight against the guard. When it is cut, lift your wood pieces straight up, avoiding all contact with the blade (I cannot stress that enough) and bring them around the outside of the saw –and you are done! I know it looks and sounds really intimidating but once you get the hang of it, it is a wonderful tool and you will wonder how you ever did without! So, you want to feature an idea you found here at The Contractor Chronicles on your own blog? The compensation received may influence the advertising content, topics or posts made in this blog.
Sometimes we are compensated to provide opinions on products, services, websites and various other topics. With the addition of a simple shop-made fence, you can easily edge joint on your table saw. Clamp the fence in place such that the blade relief in the fence is slightly behind the saw blade. If the fence is too far to the right, you’ll leave a sliver of wood on the edge of the board. Please Select Username to appear on public areas of the site like community and recipe comments.
An accurate miter gauge and fence and basic wood jigs are the key to perfect table saw cuts. Loosen the handle on the miter gauge and square it to the saw blade with a drafting square, then retighten the handle. Hold a 4-in.-wide test piece against the fence, start the saw and push the wood through the blade. Be sure the side of the triangle against the blade falls between the teeth tight to the blade “plate.” For greater accuracy, have the blade cranked all the way up so you're squaring to the widest part of the blade. Photos 4 and 5 show you how to test the accuracy of and fine-tune your miter gauge setting. Raise the blade all the way and hold a combination square vertically against the blade and the saw table. Start the saw, hold the board firmly against the fence and push the board completely past the saw blade.
Pull the board away from the blade, then shut off the saw and remove the cutoff piece from the other side. To make precise square cuts, start by rough-cutting long boards a few inches longer than the final length, with either a circular or a miter saw. Position the factory end of the board just past the end of the extension fence so the blade will just shave it, and then start the saw.

Now mark the exact length at the other end and align that mark with the end of the extension fence (Photo 1). Hold the board very firmly against the fence and push the board through the blade to make the cut. Mount an extension fence, moving it toward the blade far enough to cut the end at a 45-degree angle (Photo 2). For the kind of extreme accuracy needed for complete squares such as picture frames, cut two test boards, push the miters tightly together and check the assembly with a drafting square. The saw’s motor is built by Emerson Electric who used to build Craftsman motors back in the day. It is a contractor’s saw with the motor hanging out the back and the cabinet open, so dust collection can be a problem.
Since I may have to rout and rip moldings, I also have an auxiliary router table top that I can set up on a Black and Decker Workmate so I can dedicate a station to each task. Hmmm, is it held on to a fixed post off the back of the saw with a fitting secured with a set thumb screw?
I spent a few hours cleaning up my saw and doing routine maintenance today and found the blade and fence alignment to be super easy once you get the hang of it. Having looked at other more expensive and feature rich saws the one place I would argue that needs improvement is the rip fence. The only other issue I see which has been resolved in the newer model of this saw is that the miter slots are not t-track.
The plans were all kinda done on the fly – basically, I have aluminum angle around the three sides that meet with the table and rails, and I ground the heads of some bolts down to fit inside the rail track. I epoxied two pieces of plywood around the table cutout, and screwed a diagonal brace from the stand to a point near where the router sets in. I could take some shots, but just Google “Router Table Ridgid table saw) and there are all sorts of jury-rigged plans out there.
Last month we talked about which saw to use, so this month I’m going to start by talking about how to use a table saw. You want to remember to measure with the line of the tape measure on the side of the saw blade that is towards the guide rail. She's usually found with a drill in one hand and a cocktail in the other while blogging along the way. It follows a ruler that starts at 0 (where the blade is) and measures up from there on both sides so you can cut from the left or the right.
I like that the button is large and easily accessible so you can turn it off quickly if you need to. We are Spencer and Amanda, a DIY husband and Wife team, sharing projects we build and create together for our home. That content, advertising space or post may not always be identified as paid or sponsored content. Even though we receive compensation for our posts or advertisements, we always give our honest opinions and experiences on those topics or products.
Remember that man-made materials like plywood can be hard on steel jointer knives – but not on carbide table saw blades.
Your goal is for the outside edge of the blade to be even with the outside edge of the fence.
Adjust the rip fence so that the blade spins free and the outside face of a tooth is even with the outside edge of the fence.
Screw the fence to the miter gauge with the right side projecting a few inches past the saw blade. Rather than unbolting the entire trunnion assembly and wrenching it the very small distance to get the blade parallel with the fence, you simply loosen a bolt where the manual tells you to, and you can inch everything into alignment – no fuss, no muss.
I really have nothing to compare it to since this is my first table saw but overall I am very pleased with the performance so far. There are so many t-track miter accessories available that would sure be nice to use but alas. Well I went to purchase a delta after market fence and while looking at it and the $150 purchase price I decided to get a little more use out of the old fence.

I wish it a had a different splitter, mine tends to get loose and I have to retight it all the time. I’ve been around lumber my whole life, because one of my grandfathers owned a sawmill. A fast blade plus the light board means that sometimes the blade spins the board off and makes it kind of fly out of the saw. After doing some searching we decided to just borrow this little beauty from my dad – this Skilsaw Portable Table Saw from Home Depot.
Since buying our home in 2007 we have had the saying that Spencer builds it and makes it work and Amanda makes it look good. The kerf of the blade determines how much you’ll be removing with each pass, so thin-kerf is better than full-kerf. If the blade projects past the fence you’ll need to move the rip fence to the right and skin off a little more material. And, because you’re using a carbide-tipped blade, you can edge joint nearly anything, and get great results.
By swapping right and left for inside and outside, and taking about half of the pictures from the front and the rest from the back this is more confusing that it needs to be. Follow these tips, tricks and techniques to make straight cuts and angle cuts in almost any sized lumber. Obviously, you can’t use a splitter when you dado or rabbet, so it has to be removed for these operations.
Well besides the factory miter sled which is terrible cheap and like you I replaced mine as well with one I made from some plans. I also do not care for the rip fence’s requirement to clamp onto the back rail which makes it much more difficult to add on an extension table. I had always sort of ignored the fence as useless due to it’s flimsy appearance and all of my t-track hardware did not work with it so I assumed it was non standard t-track that I could not really take advantage of without buying some accessory kit from rigid. My uncle worked there, my brother worked there, even my other grandfather worked there during the farming off season. Hold your MDF tight against the guard the entire time you cut and going at an even pace, run your MDF over the blade. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question.
After each cut, slide the board away from the blade and turn off the saw before you remove cutoff pieces. In general, it's best to make all your miter cuts first, and then any square cuts at the opposite end, where it's easier to be accurate. I have considered replacing the rip fence and front rail with an after market fence to eliminate this problem.
When I got home and started playing around with it and looking at the t-track it dawned on me that I could use standard #18 hex head bolts and after about 1 minute of searching I found one and lo-and-behold it works perfectly. The guide rail will have a clamp on it (in some way) to release it from the table and adjust it, then clamp it back to the table so it will be secure and hold your wood in place without a problem. Fix this by cutting the rest of the way through the fence and repeating the setup and cutting process. All of those times I wanted to use the t-track on that fence have now come rushing back to me and I see unlimited potential in what I can do with some #18 bolts and the existing fence.
I put the wooden angle brace on the table and bolted it to the saw base so there would be no sag.
I’ve never been scared to use one because I was taught proper safety from a very young age, so let’s fire up the saw and get to cutting some lumber!

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Comments to «How to use table saw video»

  1. pff writes:
    Misfires, the user have to hold the that the drill you.
  2. sex_ustasi writes:
    FYI for any person else who saw.
  3. FB_GS_BJK_TURKIYE writes:
    MAX Li-Ion LED work light, two have to buy the optional bit supply of cold water directed.
  4. 032 writes:
    Come with a leather sheath, and m18.
  5. Ramil_Seferov writes:
    You can often make the cuts resemble spur point bits, but can.

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