The fence itself is pretty simple, two pieces glued together with holes drilled to allow sliding along the threaded rods. It comes together very nicely, allowing the fence to be adjusted right up against the blade. Resawing lumber is a part of many projects, from big long boards for the hulls of boats, to fine hardwood boards for boxes.
The rest is a matter of careful assembly, lots of gluing and clamping, lots of planing, a bit of drilling and fitting. The work holding capability is better than I aimed for, and the fit and finish is a big step above the previous version. Nuts for the front vise screws are mortised in very snugly, and then epoxied to prevent any wiggle.
Work holding - This one is hard to hold well, but this works, a good test for moderate sized 'in the round' carvings. Work holding - typical joinery cutting - 22 inches between vise screws gives lots of capability.
Popular WoodWorking & WoodWorking magazine editor, Chris Schwarz, is in my view the most prolific and influential writer on working wood today. For starters, I disassemble the saw by lifting the spine from the sawplate with a vise and a stout screwdriver. Here are some products I use to clean the sawplate: Medium and fine Sandflex blocks, Oxystrip rust remover, and a fine sanding sponge.
This turned out to be the lengthiest process of all with the amount of bows along the toothline and a twist in the metal at the toe. Then it's back to the Disston 3D Saw Vise, where I lightly joint the toothline again, and conduct the secondary sharpening entirely by hand. If Ia€™ve established good gullets between the teeth, I can apply minimal set with my Stanley 42X Saw Set to promote a thin kerf while maintaining smooth cutting action without binding.
We now have a much better toothline, though therea€™s still a slight bow toward the toe where that end of the sawplate suffered the most abuse. The saw is now razor-sharp, and slices through the cut in just a few short strokes with a much straighter blade, thinner kerf, and far better action.
DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. During his review of a Bontz saw, he mentioned an Art Deco feature in how the saw’s back was shaped.

Tom Fidgen planed off the bottom piece at an angle, providing a way of resting the plane at an angle which keeps the blade off the bench. I’ll cut the threaded rods down some after I decide how far I might really want to extend the fence.
The idea is to produce a kerf of reasonable depth on all edges of a piece of lumber, and then use that kerf to guide the saw. The 044 plow plane was good at removing waste, but only after the groove sides were cut ahead. Looks like the handle and split screws are replacements (note the two screwholes of wider diameter than the smaller two). I use a Burr retoother, a 50a€™s-60a€™s vintage machine made by Max Manufacturing, San Jose, CA. I use an Acme Saw Filing machine to establish a consistent 20-degree fleam and 5-degree gullet, without changing the rake the retoother cut. I tap the spine lightly across the top of the sawplate until I achieve even clamping pressure, which keeps the newly flattened sawplate straight. It's gone from a beat-up old saw gathering dust to a saw that will last at least another generation. While I’m never satisfied with a carving, this one is done enough to set aside and wait for its partner.
That sparked an old interest and I was off to re-explore the genre and come up with a couple of designs. I follow the usual technique of sawing from all 4 corners and flipping frequently to stay on track, or for a very long board, still flipping frequently side to side. Slicing is the key to success, and that little knife is kept razor sharp for marking, and now for slicing cedar. A pronounced taper travels from heel to toe, a chip mars the upper horn, and there are the aforementioned (British) bows along the toothline. This machine stamps out the old teeth with a punch and die, and cuts a new toothline anywhere between 4 and 16 TPI.
Back to the saw anvil now for more hammeringa€”retoothing bows the entire sawplate, but ita€™s quickly remedied, and doing it in this order makes sure bows appear that I might have missed when straightening the sawplate earlier.
Following this I return the sawplate to the saw vise and gently file any teeth with minute flats remaining on top that I missed earlier. I reattach the handle to line up the holes in the sawplate and wood before screwing the sawnuts into place. While mine isn’t a thing of beauty, it works so well that I wanted to post it here in case anybody else has been considering making one.

The combination of cap nuts and lock washers mean that the finger-joint hinge has absolutely no play, which makes it really easy to make fine adjustment to the position of the saw.
Longer hand saws or rip saws might be better served by a vise with two vertical supports; in other words making a frame. He sent me the crappiest saw I've ever seen—a beat-up old Groves 12-incher with more bows along the toothline than a formation of English archers facing down the French at Agincourt. Unlike the more automated Foley hand saw sharpener (which can grind a tooth off with no hand control), this tool lets me move the saw vise one tooth at a time.
After lightly stoning both sides of the toothline to remove any burrs, I have completed the sharpening process.
I left them round, rather than putting flats on the sides, because they are easy enough to grip and don’t need much torque to do their job. Fitting something like this is when one learns to really appreciate how well Michel Auriou’s rasps perform  (the one on the right, not the rat tail). The following narrative reflects how I restored his old saw, and showcases the various techniques I use in any major restoration project.
I control the amount of pressure the file exerts in the toothline by hand with a lever that drops the file into the gullet. I was careful to chamfer entry points, to lube the tap with BLO, and to soak the dowels overnight in BLO before threading.
Even though the specific type is unknown, it was straight, free of knots and a joy to work. The front vise itself grew to be a bit floppy, the result of installing the vise screw nuts loosely in softwood sockets. I can’t justify the tooling cost for making just one of those wooden screws, and for what it costs to buy one ready made, I can buy a couple of top of the line carving gouges. I’ll keep the full width front vise and the excellent screws with adjustable handles. Lastly, the excellent Gramercy holdfasts were rarely useful due to the smaller size of most of my work pieces.

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