12" Sliding Table Saw packed with the features you want in the size you need and at the price you can afford. Delta table saw fence systems are one of the most important power tool accessories you can add to your shop. We are looking for another table saw and we are going to use the saw we have now for dadoing only. It?s a big decision for us and it needs to be the right choice and that?s why I?m asking for your assistance.
If you are using dowel construction, or if you are building frameless cabinets, a slider is a must.
After reading your opening statement, it got me to thinking about this one company that I worked for in the 1960's. A shooting board is a straight edge attached to a surface that allows a hand plane to ride on its side.
The shooting board is for cutting down a full sheet of material resulting in smaller pieces that are easily pushed through the TS.
I recently bought one of those track systems mentioned above and have to say it's better than I expected. If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum.
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The fence allows precise and quick adjustments while the silky smooth sliding table makes cutting accurate panels a pleasure.
Without a quality fence on your table saw, it is difficult if not impossible to produce quality projects. I can spend $2,000 on a saw and I have found many saws used on auction and various other places but can?t find a happy medium between getting the Rikon sliding table for $2,000 or a used 3-5 hp sawn and then a sliding table add-on. All of our sheet good has clean edges so would it be feasible to trust that crosscutting off the fence would result in square panels?
I do faceframe construction and have 8' in front of blade and 8' across right now so I would put the dado saw at the opposite corner and a 4' x 3' sled for squaring.
They had an air operated sled that moved over the dado blades and it was fast and made clean cuts.

I use a pair of them, one set up to do ripping and the other has a slider attached to do sheet goods.
My first saw, a 54' Uni which I bought many years ago cost me $200, plus another $200 for a replacement fence. This allows you to use the straight edge as a reference so you can hand plane a perfectly square and straight line, or in some cases set up for planing a perfect miter. It?s the same as the planer model mentioned by contributor L except that it uses a circ saw in place of a planer. It extends right up next to the blade providing a zero clearance, splinter free cutting action similar to the commercially available track saws that are the latest trend in panel processing.
The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.
If this would work I could afford two used saws for under $2,000 and make a large melamine table for a sheet-goods saw. If you are building faceframe cabinets, and using traditional joinery for the carcass (dados or nails and glue) I do not think a sliding attachment or saw is justified. No doweling, so basically what I need is more table on the left of the saw to accommodate a full sheet handled by one man. I understand the walking around the extra table on right and actually more table is more friction. You can pick them up pretty cheap and as long as there's no damage, cracks, broken parts chances are you'll be fine just replacing the bearings and going to work. In the 15 or so years I've had it I replaced the motor, the bearings, and the belts and it's still running great. If I survive the economic downturn I'll be looking into a used vertical panel saw to improve my sheetgood processing.
Using a shooting board may seem like a PITA, but if you are alone it is better than wrestling a full sheet onto the saw. I bought the Festool saw with two sections of 55" track and it cuts dead on very cleanly with almost no splintering. The Rikon saw itself is probably durable and it comes with a two year warranty but how durable is it?s slider?
I was looking at the Grizzly pro cab 5 hp and was going to use one machine for ripping and sheet goods but now that I think about it two different machines would speed up production a lot. It may be short rail for ripping and long for sheets, and then I would be much under $2,000 and have money for nice new blades.

For your primary sizing saw you definitely want a melamine out feed table that extends at least 60" behind the blade.
So between the two saws I've spent less than $1,000 even with the replacement parts and they've made me money for years.
My outfeed and side tables are laminate face and I keep them waxed usually so friction is not a huge problem. So on a job of 20 linear feet of face frame cabinets I would have fully assembled cabinets ready for finishing two to three days after the client made the down payment.
It?s not as powerful as my old Porter Cable saw, but so much faster and cleaner it's worth the expense. You can now have Sliding Table Saw performance in your shop all at incredibly reasonable price! As I?m typing I thought of maybe two used saws, one to rip lumber with an out feed roller and one for sheet goods. Would two 3 hp saws be efficient enough or would the weight and the large cast iron surface of a big machine be better? It is the faceframe that accepts the hardware and doors so the carcass has a lot of tolerance for out of square. When you hear the owners of large sliders talking about the time savings their saw offers them it is because of features and details that the add-on?s do not have. That way a ripped sheet can pass through the blade and not fall off (teeter-totter style) the outfeed table.
For 90% of the cuts (maybe 99%) it was in the way so I just used an outfeed roller to help support the panel.
In my shop we can process material faster and cleaner using a manual slider than the 150K CNC we used before.
Plus there were no mistakes, less waste and faster assembly due to the blind dado construction. Also if some day you get crazy enough to ignore all the dowel construction nay-sayer?s you will only need a boring machine. Remember that even if you have the extra 20 or 30 inches left of the blade it is still very difficult to push the panel through and keep a good cut - especially towards the end of a long day.

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