My poor technique with a single-edged saw guide resulted in many wavy cuts, which led me to develop an improved double-edger.Admittedly, the concept comes from the Festool saw, but for far less $$. I really like this… Is this jig able to be table mounted much like the Festool Multitask table setup for their tracksaw? I suppose you could mount the back-end of this to a table with some hinges – I have thought about it. But, the advantage of this track is that you can slide the track to your cut line – MUCH easier than trying to muscle a full sheet of plywood to match a fixed cut position. Another thing you could add to this is to use UHMV tape to make the edges of the guides that the saw slides against very slick. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Is there a better way to cut 4'x8' sheets than laying them on the ground over some 2x4s, clamping on straight guides, and cutting with a handheld circular saw? Winter is here, and I gotta start cutting indoors in my woodshack, but floor space is slight.
I'd like to build a removable tabletop with spacers or some kind of support for making such cuts. Maybe take that idea and add another layer of MDF to "capture' the top of the saw fence so the saw can't fall away from the work if you cut with the wood vertical. When cutting chipboard inside an appartment (God, how the neighbours hated me) , planks larger than yours, 6x8.5 feet, I propped them against the wall, separated by some wooden struts, and cut them roughly into pieces I could handle. First raised *one* end, to be able to start from below, cutting somewhat over a foot, then lowered that end so the plank was firmly on the ground and finished cutting upwards. Rising the full plank would be very unstable or dangerous, raising only one end and cutting just a little starter first, was reasonable. Do not try to cut definitive parts in that first pass, just split the plank into 3 or 4 useful pieces. I agree that cutting a 4' X 8' sheet of plywood on a home shop table saw is very dangerous. I buy a 2" thick sheet of 4 X 8 insulation, you know, the blue stuff from the big box stores. I have the same problem as you do, a too small shop and a weakness for deals on power tools.
I'm lucky if I complete one amp per year, and I tend to buy ready-made cabinets or just use an old solid-state amp as a donor. The blue foam insulation trick is a great one, I'll remember it I'm not sure if that stuff is available in Europe or what it's called.
This colorful guy (a Spanish Civil War refugee) lived in a black and white world, no grey for him.
I have a great table saw, but I seldom cut a full size sheet of lplywood because it is so hard to control by myself.
As the son of a woodworker who lost a couple of fingers to a table saw (and with very limited shop room), I’ve been exploring alternative ways of ripping and cross-cutting.
I extended the track to hold the saw when it’s not in use and changed some materials to make sure it was as accurate as possible. With stop blocks, my cuts are as repeatable as a table saw, and it feels a whole lot safer to operate. Posted June 21, 2011 by Paul Mayer & filed under Jigs and Fixtures, Plans and Projects, Woodworking Projects. The solution to this problem that can be found in some big-time cabinet shops and home centers is a panel saw, which is an amazing tool for quickly, easily and safely taming sheet goods.
As I looked around for options for breaking down sheet goods in my home workshop, I saw that there are many nice guide systems for circular saws that looked decent.


My solution was a dirt-simple work around; an hardboard guide system that is made custom for my circular saw.
If I have successfully sold you on the idea of building one of these, let’s get started. This topic contains 75 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  supimeister 1 year, 6 months ago.
Well I finally got a little bit of time to make the long awaited jig that I’ve been talking about for my Bosch cordless circ saw. As far as making it for 2x material John there wouldn’t be enough blade depth for that with this design. True Mark – but I like the idea of having some sort of pre-set jig that will (hopefully) give me more precision. I still have to work the idea for the 2x cutting jig around in my head a bit but I’ll let you know when I have something concrete. I guess it won’t work, it says that the file type is not permitted for security reasons.
I just cut up my first sheet of plywood with a single edge guide and the tear out on the unsupported was pretty bad, I’m sure this would help a lot.
Perhaps even a vertical mounted jig on the wall where I can put a sheet and cut it with my circular saw. I have a decent 12 inch table saw, and I can cut smaller sheets with it as well as trim the cuts made with the hand held. So I often cut the sheet down to a manageable size with a hand saw then get the piece on the table saw. I also widened the track enough that my first cut trimmed the edge, so between the edge of the track and the edge of the saw kerf, I have a precise cut line defined.
I got in a hurry making sides for a two-step dog stair, and one of my track cuts went a little wide.
The guide would just need to be closer to the cutting edge (router radius minus largest bit radius) and you could eventually add a second guide on the other side to stabilize the router. My design was a bit different and it allow me to cross cut by pushing the saw or rip by pushing the wood.Unfortunately I have no photos of it as it was dismantled for its parts. Even on my cabinet saw, equipped with ample outfeed support, I dread man-handling those behemoth sheets. But two simple reasons prevent me and most other hobbyist woodworkers from taking the plunge into panel saw ownership.
Some guide systems even come with a circular saw, and these look like a great alternative to a panel saw.
With many circular saw guides you have to accommodate the distance from the fence to the blade. Leave the edge overhanging enough so that your saw blade will not cut into anything that you don’t want it to. Carefully hold the saw tight against the fence and flat against the base for the length of the cut. If everything was set up correctly, your sheet should be trimmed perfectly to size, with a chip-free edge where you made your cut.
Be sure to find a good blade for cutting veneer plywood, and not just go with the junky blade that came with your saw, which is typically designed for cutting framing lumber.
Just had to make another as I switched to a thin kerf blade so there was a gap between the blade and my previous jig.
I dissed Fans invention and now I am sitting here looking at pile of cove casing that needs cutting.
Before I got the Festool (I have the older model) I made one similar to this but it only had a guide on one side.


I’m cutting parts for a horizontal panel saw, so my rips will soon be faster and cleaner. In the first picture you can see the two sides mounted in the jig, where I trimmed the oversized piece to match the other one perfectly.
If you rest your router on a plexiglass sheet, you can even spread the guides a little more to increase the visibility of the bit.
The first problem is price, and for me there don’t really need to be any other problems. As an alternative to weighting it down, you might choose to use short brads to secure the two pieces together.
Hold your saw base carefully against the fence as you make this cut, leaving you a base that is perfectly matched to your saw, with a zero clearance edge that will deliver a chip-free cut on veneers. Place the non-fence side of your base against the fence on your saw, and adjust the fence so that you will remove material from both the base and fence of your guide for the entire length of cut. Then lay the guide directly on the line, placing the guide on the side of the line that you will keep.
Look for a blade with a high tooth count, in the range of 50-60, thin kerf to minimize resistance as you move through the cut, and carbide tipped teeth to maximize the time span between sharpenings. To make a cut I just line up my mark with the saw kerf in the fence and I know the cut will be right on the mark. I have another idea for making a jig that will work with 2x material though…the jig would be taken to the work rather than the work taken to the jig like this one.
It really brings a whole other level of precision to the circ saw with cuts that are on par with my sliding mitre saw. The jig I have in mind for cutting framing lumber would be very similar to a speed square, the only difference would be a thin base that the saw sits on top of so that you know the edge of that base is where your cut is so it speeds up the cut since you can just set that edge to your mark similar to a track saw. I dont cut enough to invest in a larger table and want some jig for my hand held circular saw. One of the reasons for this jig is to cut some of the small pieces needed for the panel saw I mentioned above. At $900 for a basic model (and they go way up from there), I wouldn’t use it enough to justify the indulgence. But could I rig something like this up for my own circular saw, which cost $49 some 15 years ago and had mostly been used for building decks?
That’s enough material to make an 8 foot long guide for ripping, a 4 footer for cross-cuts, and have lots of leftover material for future jigs.
Then cut a strip of hardboard 5″ wide and the same length as the base, which will be used as the fence for your cutting guide.
Whatever you choose, be sure to keep the pieces held against a flat surface while the glue dries. This will prevent chip out from occurring on the project itself, because the base of the guide system will serve as a backer board for the cut.
A quick lick with a file cured it, but I was still out the $ 375 for the Festool, but it does many things that the Milwaukee could not do because of its ability to plunge. Between the infeed space and the massive size of the tool itself, it is like having another stationary table saw for a specific task. I wanted something that would deliver a chip-free edge on veneered plywood that would rival what a panel saw or high end guide system could deliver. These tools are impressive and a great asset for a shop, so if you have the space and the money, don’t let me talk you out of getting one.




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Comments to «Circular saw track jig youtube»

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