Adjustment of the high speed adjusting screw(H)not only affects the power output but also the maximum off-load engine speed.
When the engine is tested at the factory the carburetor is set to obtain a slightly richer mixture to ensure that the cylinder bore and the bearings receive additional lubrication during the break-in period.
If you have no means of checking the maximum engine speed, do not set the high speed adjusting screw (H) any leaner by turning it (clockwise) beyond the basic setting Above! David thanks for your input it is helpful I changed this guide because of your comment, and I urge readers to look over all the comments on this page you’ll find lots of useful information. Change the fuel line and filter if the fuel line has a pin hole in it, the engine will suck nothing but air. HEY ALL, NEW HERE ALTHOUGH NOT NEW TO TROUBLESOME TWO STROKES I GOT A O25 PUT A KIT IN THA CARB AND IT HAS OLY OE ADJ SCEW AND A IDLE SCREW A THE THIG WILL CRANK FAIRLY EASY AND IDLE BUT WHEN U REV IT UP IT BOGS DOWN CANT SEEM TO GET IT RITE IT RAN FINE AT FIRST SAW SET UP SO I REBUILT THE CARB OR REPLACED THE DIA. I have a ms 390 the carberator need something I put a carberator from my 310 on the 390 and it works. The carb with cleaner off sprays a lite mist of gas sprays on my hand then stalls out running nicely at high RPMs. CC on (h) also check the screen in the exhaust, Air filter, Fuel filter, Collapsing kinking or week fuel line, clogged screen in the carb, or a vacuum leak. Hi I have an 046 and it has worked fine but after a time in the shed with new fuel and clean filters it s impossible to start and run.
Before I went to rebuild it, it started just fine but bogged REALLY bad and acceleration with the chain clutch disengaged (no load at all) was poor at best with it taking about 5 seconds to get to full speed at all full throttle. I have had my MS290 for 4 years started cutting out at idle, replaced air filter and started messing with idle adjustment that worked for a day.
It fired right up upon reassembly but the problem remains I can get it to stay idle by backing off the idle speed adjustment but afraid to keep messing with the adjustments.
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Then turn screw back one quarter turn and check that engine still accelerates smoothly when you open the throttle.
If the setting is too lean (screw turned too far clockwise), the maximum permissible engine speed will be exceeded. A little air-borne humidity has gotten into your engines cylinders causing the pistons to seize up.
If you can run an engine on full choke, you definitely have an air leak somewhere, you would have to have the mixture screw bottomed out to run that lean.

I rebuilt the walbro carb on my stihl 026, new gaskets, replaced the screen you were talking about.
I’ve rebuild the carb several times, cleaned it out, and it still only runs when I spray gas in the carb. Pay carefull attention when dis-assembling it so you rebuild it with correct gasket placement. I started it up ran two tans a half tanks of gas through it and all of a sudden it started bogging down when I tried to rev it up to cut. Immediately the decompression is off the timing seems to be so advanced that it is impossible to operate.
I used 2 stroke oil to lubricate the new bearings, crankshaft, and piston for insertion but not to excess. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship.
This can cause engine damage, brought about by lack of lubrication and overheating in particular.
If you have spark and a new plug with the correct gap, use a small squirt bottle of mixed fuel and, squirt a little gas directly into the carburetor. So I got a new piston and cylinder (non stihl) and took it too a stihl dealer and they put it together.
It will let you get some gas up every once in a while or the fuel filter in the gas tank is clogged. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. Corrections to the setting of the high speed adjusting screw may be carried out only if an accurate tachometer is available to check the maximum engine speed of 13,000 rpm (with bar and correctly tensioned chain). Get a good penetrating lubricant and spray it into the cylinder and let it go to work, after several hrs-days try to turn the engine over. Also replace needle valve and make sure the spring is centered under the metering arm and the screw is tight that holds down the metering arm. After checking the air filter and a cool down, it starts up fine but again I can not get it to roar to life just idle.

Notice that when it runs and dies there will not be any gas in the primer bubble after it dies. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. Note that even slight alterations on the adjusting screws have a noticeable effect on the engine”s running behavior.
An old trick to find a vacuum leak is to get it running and spray choke or carb cleaner around it–when the revs go up listen for a change in exhaust note. If you still have problems check your fuel tank vent and make sure spark screen in the muffler is clean. I can’t seem to find how much the throttle screw (touching carb butterfly) enters the equation.
Someome suggested cutting a new keyway on the flywheel but this shouldn’t be necessary as it worked perfectly earlier.
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Only carry out carburetor adjustments after cleaning the air filter and warming up the engine. So made and used oblong punch to set Welch plug followed by tiny amount of old bottle of clear nail polish around edge.
Sounds like the needle valve is not closing and opening properly letting fuel run down thru the intake manifold.
Should it just be barely touching to keep engine idling or screwed in further which will speed up chain even further?
Actually, it’s suspiciously clean with hardly any darkening of the spark screen let alone any carbon deposits. If yours is an older stihl you may need the straight fuel line, not the one with the pre-bend in it.
Also when looking at your carb from the handle make sure the impulse line (right side bottom) is fully attached to the carb.

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