Hilti’s new hollow hammer drill bits help lead to cleaner holes in brick, block, and cement with less fuss and effort.
After drilling a hole in brick, block, or cement, workers will often have to clear it of loose dust before an anchor can be properly seated.
With one of these hollow drill bits, you simply attach a vacuum hose to the port near the mounting point and go about your boring business. We can understand how these bits could boost the efficiency of the whole drilling-cleaning-anchoring process, but can these bits improve anchor strength and safety?
These new hollow hammer drill bits will be available in a multitude of sizes with SDS Plus (TE-CD) and SDS Max (TE-YD) connection shanks. It looks to me that the carbide tip is more robustly built than typical bits, perhaps to compensate, and the absence of helical flutes might mean a thicker shank diameter for extra support. I was looking at the Milwaukee universal vacuum attachment, but if the price is right these might be a decent alternative.
Anchors I install don’t typically require adhesive, so my primary use for these bits (or the vacuum) would be to minimize both dust inhalation and the mess made with the debris, when drilling holes to establish a cable path. For exact delivery times and prices simply add the required products to the cart and this will be shown.
The hollow channel in each bit extends from the tip to the built-in vacuum port positioned just ahead of the mounting point. But I’m not convinced that these bits will create a perfectly dust-free environment, but there are no flutes. Jigs were mentioned earlier in this list, and their use for tenons, tapering, panel- cutting, and many other uses.
Hilti claims that these bits not only improve hole-cleaning efficiency but also lead to safer anchor installation.
It could be that residual dust is extracted during bit removal from the freshly-drilled hole. Open Holes outside exposed to rain is a nightmare, Especially if the dust is still in them. The saw blades make the side of the groove straight while the chipper removes the large part of the material between the saw blades. This Epoxy is also tempermental to temperure if it is cold you have plenty of time to work with it before it sets up. However, nothing beats the precision of a good compound miter saw for those combination cuts.A miter saw can be set to bevel up to 45 degrees, and will cut at a 60 degree angle in both directions.
Not only that, but you should be able to lock the saw at any angle you wish.The bevel on the saw is the ability to tilt the saw to compound the cut – hence the name. The 12” blade is nice, but few people really need the extra size, although they appreciate it if they have it. This will start and end the cut at the same depth that you set before you make the cut.A plunge router allows you to plunge the bit into the wood, make your cut, then lift it back out.
You can use your stationary router in a router table, making long cuts with ease using a fence.
Some woodworkers even convert their table saw to accept a stationary router so that they can use the rip fence and feather boards.You should get a router with at least 2 HP, or it will be underpowered for hardwoods. You’ll also burn hardwoods, if you can’t slow down the router speed.Consider the size of the collet, too.
They balance out their cost and rarity, though, because they are more stable than the ?” bits, and won’t chatter as much during use.You’ll need to decide between grips on the router. Some of them have pistol grips that you hold with one hand, others have 2 handles on opposite sides.
You shouldn’t have to move one of your hands to switch it on or off.Some of the newer routers have sensors that evaluate the load. But, what a lot of woodworkers don’t realize is that the band saw is a powerful ally when cutting rabbets and tenons. You can also rip small pieces of wood and even make your own laminate strips with a band saw.
There are free-standing, or cabinet band saws and table mount models that you can attach to a work bench or a dedicated stand. The depth of cut is the distance between the cutting plate and the upper guides on the blade.
There are some saws, however, that can have risers attached to make it possible to cut thicker materials, so you can go from 6” to 12” with the use of a riser.The throat is the distance from the saw blade to the back frame of the saw. A cabinet band saw will have a deeper throat, usually about 18”, while the bench models have 12” to 14” throats. When you see information referring to a 12” band saw, it’s referring to the throat.The size of the motor will matter. More expensive ones will have variable speeds, but the woodworker doesn’t usually use the different speeds. They may come in handy if you’re planning on shaping exotic woods such as acacia or bamboo.
Just be sure to check the moisture content levels in these woods before you make any fine applications, or they’ll change size and mess up your work.The cutting surface, or table, should be made of steel alloy, aluminum alloy, or cast-iron.

The measurements of the cutting surface should be about 16” x 16”, with miter marks.The saw blade of the band saw is actually a continuous band, like an alternator belt, with teeth on one side. You’ll need to change out the brushes once or twice during the lifetime of your band saw.Between the band saw blade and the wheel is a tire.
You have to glue the rubber ones onto the wheel, while the urethane doesn’t have to be glued down. The tires you choose for your saw should be a little smaller than the wheel – again, it’s like an alternator belt.
If you have a band saw that just doesn’t do the job any more, consider your maintenance of the machine.
If you choose to get one, just plan to have a permanent home for it, because it’s probably not going to travel to worksites with you.The radial arm saw is usually used to perform crosscuts. However, you can use it for bevels and miters, dadoes, rabbets, moldings, and even as a router guide.
It’s kind of a trade off – you get a multi-purpose saw for the more extravagant price, but it will be a little harder to use than saws made specifically for those purposes.With a radial arm saw, you’ll move the saw rather than the material. Then, turn the saw on, and let the blade get up to full speed before you start pulling it toward you.Now, with this saw, you’ll get a lurching, crawling effect that you may not be prepared for. Experts say to install the saw on the work table with a very slight backward slant in order to keep it from “walking” forward on your work bench. With a fence securely in place, the wood has nowhere to go, and there’s less opportunity for your hand to get yanked into the blade.
You’ll have to keep a grip on it, and make it go at your speed.You can use your radial arm saw to cut dadoes and rabbets. Also, always reinstall the blade guard when you change the blade in any of your saws.While this saw may be better at cutting complex compound angles, it can be trickier to set up.
Just make sure that the riving knife and pawls are in place should there be a jam or kick back.Setting the depth of cut is important. But the radial arm saw is being drawn across the stock, cutting all the way through it into the surface below. The drill press provides you with the ability to do precision drilling, and deliver especially accurate large-diameter holes.One of the best features of a drill press is the ability for you to set the depth of the hole.
This is especially useful when you have a number of holes you need to drill, all to the same depth. The drill press also allows you to use forstner bits, hole saws, and spade bits, drilling wide diameter holes to depths that would be very difficult to drill by hand.The features you should look for when you purchase your drill press will begin with a bench mounted or free-standing model. For the record, the free-standing models usually have larger motors, making them more powerful. This will be accomplished by the ability to switch the belt to a different pulley setup, changing the speed at which the chuck rotates.
This is important because hardwoods and softwoods must be drilled at different speeds (softwoods require faster speeds than hardwoods, while hardwoods will burn at high speeds). You want the utmost control when you plunge the drill bit, and having 2 or 3 grips on the lever will help that. The plunge lever should be lockable so that you can set the depth of plunge, with an automatic redraw.The free-standing floor model may also come with another great feature – the ability to swing the drill table out of the way. Some of them can also be tilted to a 45 degree angle, too.Look for a table that has slots that allow for the use of clamps, so that you can use jigs and fences on the table. There will be slots on the table that allow for this.To drill really large stock, look for a drill press that has a really deep throat. Just as with the band saw, this is the distance between the working edge, in this case, the drill bit, and the vertical support at the back of the press.Your drill press can really help with joinery, as well as in drilling holes. The chisels that cut the square part are attached above the chuck, and the drill bit fits inside.
This table is between 10” and 14”, so that’s the maximum width of stock you can send through. A set of blades rotate, cutting the wood as it is fed through.You adjust the depth of cut with a crank, usually on one end of the planer. Most planers will plane your stock down 6 inches, but you need to do this in small increments.You achieve a smooth, evenly-planed surface, the intake rollers inside the planer will pull the stock in and feed it under the knives, while outtake rollers pull it out the other side. The stock will move slowly and steadily beneath the knives which are rotating at a very high RPM.
There should be pawls within the planer, so that if the rollers lose their grip on the stock, it won’t kick back out of the machine. You should also check to see if the surface planer you’re considering has a dust vacuum, because the amount of sawdust generated by these machines is epic.You should always use hearing protection when you’re using a surface planer.
If the stock enters at an angle, it will be gouged.Stand beside the stock you are feeding into the planer. If you stand behind it, and there is kick-back that the pawls don’t catch, you will be injured.NEVER use your hands to clear a jam.
Use a spare piece of scrap lumber to push out anything that gets stuck in the planer.Don’t try to plane items that are too small for the planer. The infeed table is usually at a lower height, based on how much you want to remove from your stock.

The outfeed table is at the same height as the cutting edge, supporting the board as it is cut. You’ll need a flat edge to do your woodworking, and the jointer can cut a flat edge and smooth surface on your stock.
For instance, if you have a 2?4 with a roughed up edge, you can place it, rough side down, against the fence on the jointer. Using a push stick, push the 2?4 across the jointer knives, and it will cut down the rough parts of the edge. This will not only give you cleaner cuts, but it will save wear and tear on your motor and knives. Remember, too, to always allow the blades to get up to full speed before you begin cutting.You’ll need to give slight downward pressure to the stock as it goes through the jointer.
Then, return to the starting point for your second pass.A jointer makes it possible to salvage bowed or warped stock that you previously may have had to discard. If you have to joint an edge that is rocking, keep your pressure on the infeed table to reduce the rocking as much as possible.To square edges, make sure that the fence is truly at a 90 degree angle to the tables. Since you’re preparing a squared edge, place most of your pressure on the fence, making sure the wood stays straight up and down as the blades do their work. Numerous, small cuts are preferable to one big one.The fact that the fence can be angled gives you the chance to make mitered butt joints. Most tools returned to mail order companies and home improvement stores as “defective” simply were not used according to instructions. The hands-on nature of woodworking often means there is a large population of craftsmen who don’t care to read instructions, but when you’re dealing with, ultimately, thousands of dollars worth of equipment, all of which can eat your hands, you’re much better off referring to the operator’s manual, rather than learning by trial and error.A single-drawer file cabinet will hold all of your manuals and warranty information. Keep a separate file on each tool – yes, even your screwdrivers – because many of those are warrantied, too. While they are harder to find, they will make it possible to keep your manual with your equipment without the manual being damaged. Some truly dedicated woodworkers even make their own notebooks out of the operators manuals. They take them apart, putting each page in a page protector, reassembling them in a notebook binder. The binder is then left on a shelf under the saw, if possible, or displayed on a shelf for easy reference. While you may not go to these lengths to keep your manuals handy, at least read through them at least once, when you first get your equipment.Each manual will have suggestions for not only safe operation, but for special uses, as well.
Fingers don’t grow back, so use feather boards, push sticks, and always use tools according to directions.
You should always have proper backup as you feed material through machines, and keep the pressure applied to the correct parts of the stock, as in your instruction manuals.Your vision and hearing are equally irreplaceable, so always wear safety glasses. If you wear prescription lenses, you order them with safety lenses, making it easy to protect your eyes while you work. Ordinary glasses are not safety lenses, and may shatter if a projectile hits them, causing even more damage.Your hearing can be protected with earplugs purchased at the hardware store or the local Wal-Mart. You can find the kind that have a string connecting them, so that you just pull them out of your ears when you’re finished cutting, and they lie across your shoulders until you’re ready for them again.There you have it – 40 tools that every woodworker should think about owning.
Ranging in complexity from the humble claw hammer to the complex and potentially dangerous jointer, these tools each have unique uses in the hands of skilled workmen. Proper care of all tools will prolong their lives, and proper use of safety equipment will prolong the quality of your own life.
Accessible storage will make your shop not only a safer environment, but it will save you a great deal of time in looking for pieces and parts that you use on a regular basis.Remember that, with numerous power tools, you’ll need dedicated outlets. While you may not run more than one power tool at a time, it’s still better to try to arrange your shop so that each tool has its own outlet, rather that stringing multi-outlet adapters across the floor, with 5 and 6 powerful tools plugged into each one.If you keep hand tools in tool drawers or on peg boards where they won’t roll around and bump into each other, the edges and handles will last longer. Keep saw blades oiled and stored flat, when possible, so that the teeth won’t be damaged.Finally, make sure you have good lighting on all of your work surfaces.
Shadows can not only interfere with accurate cutting, but can be downright dangerous with the optical illusions they can cause, leading you to get your hands too close to saw blades.
As you lay out your shop and plan outlets for your power tools, plan for an outlet for a work light, too. You can get excellent work surface lights that will clip on, or mount onto the wall behind your equipment, or stand on the floor and adjust to shine on multiple surfaces.However you choose to arrange your woodworking shop, the equipment listed above will give you years of use and pleasure. Fingers don’t grow back, the other thing I would like to mention is that not all tools are made the same.
It helped me identify couple of items I had seen in my neighborhood professional woodworker’s shop . Reply v Janet on May 12, 2014 at 2:56 pm said:I have four boys and I’m always looking for great gift ideas, thank you for this list!

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