Sorry for the repost, I couldn't find my old thread so I'm reposting this write-up with all the broken links replaced with new links. These were made for a friend of mine who was just getting into offroading (and modifying his Jeep). Total cost for parts is about $13 or so for a pair of Quick Disconnect Pins and it'll be a significant reduction in headache if you go to a Tacoma Screw or other dedicated fastener supplier.
Assembly and Installation: Remove the stock lower torx bolt from the front swaybar links on your Jeep. Because of the angle of the bushing hole as the end links is slipped onto the quick disco pin, it's very likely a hammer, heavy wrench or big screw driver will be needed to lightly knock the link onto the disconnect pin. Results: During the test drive with the pins installed my friend's Jeep felt and drove like normal. Final note: I tried making some keeper pins to store the swaybar when it was disconnected. UPDATE 9-10-2012: It has been a year and a half since I made two sets of these for two friends of mine. Hydraulic Cylinder for 7 X 12″ Metal Cutting Band SawThis is a brand new 7 X 12 HYDRAULIC CYLINDER ASSEMBLY from our surplus stock (We ordered them special). Andrew used a piece of cardboard to make a template for each side and then traced the outline onto each wall jamb. Next we had to install the piece that runs along the edge of the tub to keep water in and serve as a guide for the doors.

After we were sure it was the right size, we caulked along the little half circle ridge on the bottom of the track.
This part of the track goes on the outside and the caulk will keep water from getting out of the tub. Before we put the caulk on the track, we marked where we wanted it to go so we wouldn’t smear caulk all over while trying to reposition the piece.
When we made the cuts on the wall jambs to go around our tub and tile, we made the cuts on the deeper side of the jamb thinking that way we’d have more than enough room for the cuts. We would know which side to keep each door on, but guests wouldn’t and we would hate for there to be a gap where water could escape. Our tile wasn’t as thick as the lip on the tub, so we had to cut the wall jambs to make them fit around the edge of the tub.
So we improvised and got a paperclip with a little dab of paint on the end to mark where to drill. This piece is made slightly longer than a standard tub so that you have room to cut it down to size. Then it just slides down on top of the jambs and the weight of the doors holds it in place.
We left the stickers there because we actually have to take some of it apart and the stickers tell you which side is coated and which isn’t (non-coated side is supposed to face out). But since nothing is ever perfectly square or level (like the walls) we had to make the doors slightly uneven to make each door hit both the top and bottom bumper.

With the shallow side facing out, the bumpers almost stick out past the metal so the glass doesn’t close very far.
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The bathroom is so small and it takes two guys to get the granite in, so we just wanted to make sure nothing could break in the process.
Andrew actually changed the drill bit 3 times to get through the tile first, then the hardi backer (using a masonry bit), and then the wood.
We didn’t realize that the deeper part of the jamb is supposed to face out and the shallow side is supposed to be against the tile.
When those arrive we’ll just need to make the same cuts for around the tub (but on the shallow side of the H), screw them into the predrilled holes, replace the top piece, hang the doors, and then caulk. If you are not sure ask to take the jamb out of the box and look at it at the store, they will not mind. But even after the frustration and the now over $400 price tag, we’re still really glad we went with the glass doors. I’m not sure exactly how it works, but in the end the wall jambs shipped to us from a Ferguson Show Room.

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