Whether it be a custom built bespoke kitchen, hand made kitchen, or a kitchen bought from one of the many DIY shops in the UK. A bespoke kitchen can be made of real wood , veneer MDF, or melamine faced MDF, according to your taste. We will take on jobs from making a door to match existing units, to a fully managed installation from start to finish.
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Follow all the 'how to hang a door' steps on these pages to ensure your doors swing perfectly on their hinges! In terms of which way up, a four or six panel door generally has a taller stile across the bottom of the door than the top. In terms of which direction, quite often the door can only open one way and so the decision is easy. If the frame doesn't have door stops already built into it then set your combination square to the thickness of the doors edge (often 35 or 44mm thick) and then use it to mark a line in from the face of the lining at each corner like the picture below. Bang a nail half way in at each line that will keep the door flush with the frame and stop it falling through during marking out. If you are hanging a oak door for example or one that you dona€™t want to risk denting, nail an off cut of doorstop or other timber temporarily (don't bang the nail in all the way) to the line instead. The most important thing to know about how to hang a door that is a flush or hollow core door is to check the writing on the top edge to find out which side the lock block is in. If the carpet or flooring isn't already down, check there is a large enough gap underneath to allow for the floor covering and if there isna€™t mark what you need to cut off now too. Unless I am hanging doors to match existing ones or the schedule says otherwise, I mark a clear line with a sharp pencil on both the lining and the door - 150mm down from the top (this is the top of the top hinge) and 230mm up from the bottom (this is the bottom of the lowest hinge).


Repeat for all the hinge positions and then set up another gauge if you have one to the thickness of the hinge (I always use two marking gauges to save set up time when hanging lots of doors). If you are fitting a€?loose pina€™ hinges, you may need to take the pin out and slide it back in the other end so it doesna€™t fall out after you hang the door. Once it is hung perfectly click here for help fitting the tubular Mortice latch, handles and doorstops to it. The main advantage of having a carpenter build you a kitchen from scratch to your design is that everything is possible, and all the space you have can be utilised whether it be a big kitchen with lots of units or it be a small kitchen and more wall furniture is needed. Some carpentry work including fitting floating shelves and building made to measure shelves and cupboards in the walk-in wardrobe.
If not (and it's not on a drawing), before you can hang the door you need to determine which way the door will swing. Hopefully the door lining was installed properly (tips on this page for fitting frames) and it's square, level and in wind. Do this about three inches down from the top, and the same up from the floor - out of the way of the hinges. The lock block is a solid block of wood inside the hollow door for the latch and handle to be drilled in and fixed to.
You can cut a spacer or use cardboard in between to ensure consistency when hanging more than one door. I always put an x on the side of the line where I want the hinge to be on both the frame and door so I dona€™t chop the hinge in the wrong side of the line (Again!). Slide the hinge up to the line until it covers the a€?xa€™ and mark the other end (height) of the hinge. I use squares and gauges now though because it's much more accurate and consistent, I know the hinge will be perfectly parallel to the door edge and positioned identically in the lining as well.


Then chop in at about 10mm intervals to the depth set by the gauge, as shown in the picture.
If you do use a circular saw, score the door with a straight edge and sharp Stanley knife before you cut the bottom off to prevent tear out. Don't fill the hinge up with all the screws yet in case it needs adjusting, unless you are hanging a heavy fire check door.
If the walls are freshly plastered, I use an old blunt chisel to scrape any large lumps of plaster off the lining, and if needed an orbital sander to clean it up further. I mark sharp clear but faint lines that are easy to sand off later, and only mark where needed not a huge line across the whole width of the door! Set the marking gauge up as shown in the picture below and scribe the width of the hinge into the door edge, always working from the face.
The position of the light switch may help - really you want to avoid hanging an internal door so the switch is behind it when opened. Once this is established, put the door in the lining with the lock block in the side where the handle will be fitted. Sand any remaining pencil lines out, drill pilot holes if you need to and screw the a€?leaf a€™ side of the hinges to the door (leaf side is that in the picture above, that the marking gauge is set to) with your battery drill. The easiest way to know if it's not obvious is that the bottom horizontal rail will be taller than the top horizontal rail. When hanging ply flush doors, the top is normally the edge with the writing and lock block markings on.




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