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One day, I summoned the nerve to “follow” Robb Walsh, a pre-eminent voice in Texas food culture. One day when I said something on Twitter about pie crusts and leaf lard, and how I wanted to make one, he sent me a note and told me a brief story about a pie.
And there we sat, many states apart, me shooing away children and taking copious notes as he described with fascinating detail his search for the Quintessential American Apple Pie, and precisely how he makes it.
His search began with a tarte tatin, and a chef from France named Susan Herrmann Loomis who needed some apples to make such a tart for a Norman dinner she was planning during a visit to the states.
He read several books about people searching for the “perfect” apple pie, and by that I mean searching for a perfect pie made by someone else. He also considers the peels of the apples to be a very important textural component for the pie.
They baked and tweaked and baked and tweaked for two years, until one day, upon entering the kitchen, Jon smelled the pie aroma emanating from the oven and was confident that they had succeeded.
After talking about the pie, generally, I asked him if he would send me his rendition of the “Quintessential American Apple Pie” recipe.
Keep the flour, lard, butter, the pastry cloth and even the mixing bowl in the freezer until you are ready to use them. Jon lives in Seattle and in about 15 miles can be in an apple orchard full of heirloom fruit.
Though I tend to lollygag verbally, you do not want to lollygag in pie making, because you do not want the dough to warm up, nor do you want the apples to sit and begin to macerate. Whack the disk with your rolling pin up and across, then turn it over and do it again on the other side. With a pastry brush, apply a thin coating of egg white wash (mix an egg white with a little bit of water and mix it thoroughly with a fork) on the crust and sprinkle it with a little sugar. Bake at 425 degrees for 20 minutes then reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees and bake for an additional 40 minutes. Make sure you take a moment to appreciate the aromas that fill your home when you make this pie. And, Jon says that an important thing to remember, in all of the stages of pie making is that you are the boss, the pie isn’t.
I figured that if I kept saying no, with the best of intentions to not further inconvenience him, he would stop offering, so I said yes. During this process I found out that Jon had been talked into coming to Galveston for the Foodways Texas conference. He might as well have said I could just whittle up a functional space shuttle for what I know about rendering lard. I remember several months ago when I did a post about Chocolate Pie with a Leaf Lard Crust, my mother telling me about how she vividly recalled her daddy rendering lard at their home when she was a small child.
So, I got on the internet and found several articles about rendering lard and, lo and behold, there is nothing to it. I had gone to the restaurant supply store to look for something in which to transport this beast of a pie. Because the TSA specifically allows pie travel now, and because of the plastic clear case, I was able to set my pie right in a bin and run it through the x-ray machine.
After an incredible dinner put on by Louisiana Foods and Tim Byres of SMOKE Dallas we retired to the lobby of the Galvez to taste the pie with Jim and Diane Gossen. Given the length of this post, you might be surprised at how little I talk and how uncomfortable I am in new situations with people I do not know…especially the caliber of people I was bumping into left and right in Galveston.
Kelly — This is a beautiful story, one that I first heard from Jon at breakfast in Seattle. Seeing that beautiful, familiar looking pie and your shy but triumphant smile in the lobby of the Galvez Hotel in Galveston was very gratifying to me. Kelly, this blog almost makes me weep for the old apple tree we had on the property where I grew up. I’m so pleased to see that you are finding how easy pie is to make and what joy there is in the process and especially the sharing. This morning I decided to sit down with my coffee and not let anything distract me from reading this entire post. I am moved by people who care deeply about each other and the beautiful details in nature, who are passionate about what they do, who are open to their senses and tend to the precious and analog elements in life. I can’t remember where I found this on line that someone buys Leaf Lard at a German deli in Dallas. When it’s apple season, I often buy a bushel or so of apples and make up a few pans of Perfect Apple Pie, then wrap them and place them in the freezer for the middle of the winter.
You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Today is Independence Day and we should all take a moment to remember just what this day actually means for our great country.
This is the day we celebrate and thank our forefathers before us who had the fortitude and strong sense of self to declare our independence from England, one of the most powerful nations in the world at that time. Even though the most iconic pie in American culture and history did not start out as American—we have taken it under our wings over decades and have made it into our own.
Vape Vanilla bean between bites of this classic recipe, as the smooth, warm and full-bodied flavor will perfectly complement the cinnamon-sweet of the pie. Vape Pearadise one of our most popular flavors, as you sip on this delicious drink, because the crisp and clean taste of the pear vape co-mingles impeccably with this fruity beverage. Though its creation is a bit of a mystery, as its origin can be traced back to two different businesses—whosoever first decided to place a seasoned burger patty between two pieces of bread was truly a revolutionary of their time.
America’s favorite sandwich is certainly the summertime comfort food, so loved that it may even be considered a national treasure for us meat-loving Americans. As you wait for your burger to cook to the perfect temperature, enjoy the cool summer breeze and good times surrounding you and take a slow and satisfying vape of Surfer Soda from your ecig.
The products contained on this site are not marketed nor sold as a smoking cessation product and have not been evaluated by the FDA.They are not intended to treat, prevent or cure any diseases or conditions.
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 - Warning: This product contains nicotine, a chemical known to the state of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm. The perfect pie is equal parts science and art, and there are few things more intimidating in the American culinary repertoire than pie crust. For the flakiest, most tender crust, it's essential that you keep all of your ingredients and equipment cold as you work. If your butter (which I prefer over lard or shortening—see tip #3) gets too warm, it'll end up mixing with the gluten layers, and rather than forming distinct flakes, you'll end up with a single, greasy, shortbread-like crust. To prevent this, make sure that your butter stays in the fridge until you are ready to use it. Many traditional pie crust recipes call for a mixture of butter and shortening, or for leaf lard—rendered fat that comes from around a pig's kidney. An all-butter crust has much better flavor than the alternatives, but because butter is so hard until it melts, it can be more difficult to work with. Back in 2007, I developed a pie crust recipe for Cook's Illustrated using vodka to replace part of the water. While many people now swear by this recipe (and you can find the full recipe here), I've stopped using it at home altogether.
Your processed flour and butter are sitting there in the bowl of your food processor and you're tempted to save yourself a bit of cleanup by just adding the water directly in there, right? You may think that picking the right apple for a pie is all about flavor, but there's another equally important element: pectin.
However, there are ways to control this pectin breakdown, helping you to ensure that your apple slices are tender, but still hold their shape in the pie. Interestingly enough, tartness also prevents oxidation reactions that can turn apple slices brown. As you can see, Red Delicious, McIntosh, and Braeburn brown the most and will tend to break down completely upon baking. It may seem counterintuitive, but par-cooking your apples either by stirring them in a pan on the stovetop, by heating them in the microwave, by cooking them in a sous-vide setup, or by pouring boiling water over them and letting them sit for 10 minutes will make for apples that hold their shape better when you bake them. All you've got to do is heat up a pre-determined amount of water (I use 3 quarts per 4 pounds of apples) on the stovetop to a boil and pour it directly over your room temperature apples in a bowl.
After ten minutes in the bowl, your slices will have softened ever so slightly, but still retain most of their form. As an added bonus, par-cooking your apples will get rid of the air pocket that can occur between the top of the apples and the crust when you add your apples raw.
Hot apple pie fresh out of the oven might sound appealing, but letting it rest for a couple of hours will give you better results in the end.
Even though my husband has been in the fly rod business for over a decade, I did not know that.  Did you know that if you live around Seattle, you can go on a Walrus and Carpenter Picnic, walking out on a sandy beach in the freezing cold in rubber boots and a headlamp, drinking wine and tasting oysters straight out of the briny water? Rowley had a picture in his head of what the perfect apple pie would look and be like, and he invited his then wife Kate McDermott to join him on a quest, not to find it, but to create it.
The Gravenstein apple has the single best aroma and flavor, but alone falls short on texture. The peels also interject beautiful colors into the filling, and the tannins in the peels add an important flavor component. When you are ready to begin, place the fats, the flour and the salt in the bowl and begin to work the fats into the flour by cutting it in with forks, knives, or a traditional pastry cutter. Add a tablespoon of water at a time after that until you have dough that will stay together and form a ball. I would say that I live in the real world, but since I live within a few miles of a Whole Foods and a Central Market, that really isn’t a fair statement. And, once you have the dough rolled out, you do not want it to sit there in that lonely, warming state too long before you get it into the oven. Seal the edges, trimming where necessary so that the edges are not too thick.  Cut lines in the top crust for vents so that you do not steam the apples. I had wanted badly to go but found any number of excuses not to do so, but his going made it too fun to pass up.
I went to a nearby grocery store, talked to the man behind the meat counter, and came home with five pounds of pig fat.


Even baked, the apples retained a depth of flavor that I did not find in their retail counterparts.
The Foodways Texas Symposium was a “gulf gathering” of many of the great names in Texas foods. I didn’t want to buy a pie carrier mainly because I didn’t want to have to fool with it on the way home. And when I pulled up at the Galvez, I was more than ready to transfer custody of the pie to Jon. He met me in the lobby and for the first time I got to meet my phone tutor and apple mentor.
But, Jon had no intention of running off and eating pie in his room, as I had kind of hoped he would. The hotel wouldn’t let us serve ourselves “outside” food in the restaurant but kindly brought us plates and forks to the lobby. So serendipitous that you named your site “the meaning of pie,” which led you to the experiences to more fully understand the meaning of pie! It is not just another day off of work, as for our history it is much more significant than that.
So ring in another wonderful Independence Day with VOLCANO and enjoy these three All-American inspired recipes all perfectly paired with eliquids at your barbecue tomorrow. With the grill fired up, and the good times are going, this is the perfect 4th of July drink to have in hand.
The subtlety of this cola flavored eliquid offers a mildly sweet and tangy citrus aftertaste that will not overpower the flavors of your burger, while its finish—true to the classic flavor will certainly hold its own against the savory meat.
In the past, we've already gone into great detail about how to make perfect pie crust that's bakes up flaky and tender, and is a snap to roll out. The most essential tips and techniques that will guarantee a perfect pie for your Thanksgiving table. See, flaky layers in the crust are formed when chunks of butter (or pockets of butter-flour paste) are pressed out and flattened in between layers of gluten (the protein network that forms when flour and water mix).
Most recipes will have you cut your fat into your flour until "it resembles coarse meal" or until "pea-sized chunks remain." The problem is, not only is this a fairly inaccurate standard (ask 10 people to do it and you'll get 10 different results—heck, ask 1 person to do it 10 times, and you'll probably get 10 different results), it also makes for a crust that's crumbly and hard to roll out. The idea was that since gluten doesn't form in ethanol and vodka is 40% ethanol, you can actually add more liquid to your pie crust if you hydrate it with vodka than if you do with pure water, which makes it easier to roll out. For one thing, I don't often have vodka at home and my pie crust days are usually spur-of-the-moment.
By using the spatula to fold the water into the crust, you give flaky layer formation a head-start even before you pull out the rolling pin. Pectin is the biological glue that holds together plant cells, giving fruits and vegetables their shape and structure. So by examining which apple slices turn the brownest after slicing, we get a pretty good gauge of their acid content.
Meanwhile, Granny Smith, Royal Gala, Empire, Cortland, and Golden Delicious will all fare far better.
Well, heating it in a controlled manner—letting it spend a few minutes in the temperature zone between 140 and 160°F will increase the activity of an enzyme that converts pectin into a more heat stable form. After this point, even if you bake them into a pie, they still pretty much retain their basic shape and a bit of pleasant al dente firmness.
Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Culinary Director of Serious Eats, and author of the James Beard Award-nominated column The Food Lab, where he unravels the science of home cooking. And it is a story about a particular pie, made from that particular recipe, and the journey that the pie and I recently made. The larger story is not mine to tell and I have felt somewhat like a thief even making the pie, even though the recipe and the method were a gift generously and openly given, free of charge. These are little bits of information that I have gleaned from that little jewel of social media called Twitter. It didn’t take long for me to divine that Jon, too, was a notable, quotable in the food world. There were a few precise matches in the states but the question became, what characteristics do the apples she typically uses possess that make them work? They started by making many of the apple pies that had gotten a lot of attention in the culinary press, but they were not turning out quite the way that he had imagined it.
It is one of the “old” apple varieties and it is considered by many to be the very best cider apple and the very best applesauce apple.
For generations, most of us have been putting this ingredient into the trash, and losing something unique and delightful in the process. Once the fats have been incorporated a bit, you can manipulate the fats into the flour further with your fingers. In fact, when I went to survey the apples at my disposal in a single, albeit great, store I found no fewer than 12 varieties of organic Washington apples…in Texas.
But, generally, he said to fill your pie plate with as many apples as you reasonably can, and that was how many apples you would need for the pie. Jon suggests cutting them about a third of the way up the crust as well as on top because then some juices will flow out of the vents causing beautiful sweet little apple-y ooze that comes out and rolls down the crust and dries. Jon suspects that the high sugar content of the apples leads to the scent of caramelization. My last pie had been problematic, crust-wise, and the one I prepared for these special apples fell apart.
However, Jon immediately started suggesting that I needed to bring a pie made from the apples he had just sent. Each bite of the pie was different from the one before, and with each bite I imagined the beautiful raw apple pieces in which Lily had so delighted. My mother used to say that if there were a lifetime limit on words to use I would have run out by age 5.
I think pie had been a little bit sad for Jon for a while, mixed up as it was still in the final chapters of a marriage. I did not appreciate the old apple tree, but I know its fruit would work perfectly in your pie. People who would make their own lard and hand deliver a pie by plane for the reward of a smile. From backyard barbecues to summer nights spent at your nana’s house, apple pie is a dessert that we all associate with wonderful times spent with family and friends.
Pour your layers carefully for the artful and patriotic presentation, but don’t forget to ask your guests to stir before enjoying. How many of you have pulled a beautiful pie out of the oven only to realize upon slicing into it that the perfectly golden brown crust is leathery or tough?
Chill your flour if your kitchen is particularly warm, and if necessary, place everything in the freezer in between steps to chill them down.
For another, with the method outlined in tip #3 above, I just don't see the necessity—the dough ends up perfectly rollable with or without the addition of extra liquid. Sure, it'll work out ok, but you won't form nearly the same level of flakiness as you do if you incorporate with a spatula. Pectin breakdown is inhibited by low pH levels (that is, it breaks down less when the environment is acidic). I like to use Golden Delicious because of their perfume-like aroma, but any tart apple will work. Very much like curing the cement mortar in between the bricks in a wall and allowing them it fully harden.
Slice that pie while it's too hot, and it'll be runny and wet instead of perfectly glazed and juicy.
A restaurant-trained chef and former Editor at Cook's Illustrated magazine, he is the author of upcoming The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, to be released on September 21st, 2015 by W. It is also a story about the people who ate slices of that pie in the lobby of the storied Hotel Galvez in Galveston, Texas. And, now I have used the knowledge I gained from playing and tinkering with this pie in so many other creations that I can’t adequately talk about them the way I want to without writing this chapter first. Out of the blue, a few days later, I received a note from a gentleman in Seattle which said, in essence, I saw your name on Walsh’s list, what is the meaning of pie? Specifically, he is a consultant in the seafood industry in the west and has written about fish for the likes of Gourmet. The mission was to find an apple that was firm and held together after cooking, because that was the most important characteristics for the tarte tatin. There are very few dishes for which I have taken the time to review, re-do, learn, enhance, and perfect. The problem, says Rowley, is that baked in a pie by itself, it turns into the texture of apple sauce and you lose the structure and variety in texture that makes this pie so interesting. This is all best done with organic apples and even if you obtain organic apples at the grocery store, you should wash the apples thoroughly. Yet, at every turn the tone was “a little of this and a little of that.” This is not so much a set of rules but a methodology with some strong recommendations. The idea is to keep working the fats into the flour until the fat is in smaller size bits, roughly larger pea size to hazelnut size…some bigger, some smaller.
Again, variety is good even here, and Jon uses much larger chunks than are shown in the photos. That, combined with the distinct aroma of the butter and leaf lard baking, and the scent of the spices, vinegar and Calvados, will transport you. A few hours later I got an email from Jim Gossen, president of Louisiana Foods, whom I have talked about in my post about Foodways Texas and Low Country Oyster Roasts. And I spent the next several hours slowly and carefully rendering it and pouring it off in successively darkening batches. But that one pie was all of Jon’s story and all of his efforts on my behalf, my learning, my feelings about pie, my worry that I had failed, my joy at overcoming an obstacle, my hands in a bowl of sugary apples, a pastry cloth I had made for this very moment, and my intense desire to be GOOD at this, all rolled into a crust. They kept more flavor in the process of baking, they transmitted more of the depth of those flavors in the pie. I used double stick tape to attach the pie plate to the underside of the lid and I covered it with the bowl like a dome.


But his pie, Kate’s pie, their pie, my pie (your pie now) was having a happy day in Galveston, Texas, showing off its Washington heirloom apples and its Texas lard.
This particular pie had a journey.  I learned a great deal through it and I am using it to create more.
Does the scent of a certain dish cooking take you back and make you think of things you haven’t thought of in decades. He is a man of few words and has told me for years that a person is only allotted so many words in life and I’ve about used mine up.
Once your apple slices have been pre-treated in such a manner, subsequent baking will tenderize them, but still allow them to maintain their shape. If you're in the mood for hot cider and a bit of extra flavor in your pie, you can do the exact same thing using cider instead of water. Pie crust also fares better at room temperature, where it'll have a flakier, crisper texture. Jon proceeded to gather a few dozen heirloom prospects at orchards and farmers markets and took them home to test them and see how they behaved after being baked. Jon rather painstakingly reviewed every apple’s traits and every factor that goes into making this pie. And, he says that he even ran across something that purported to be leaf lard but seemed to be 50% Crisco and 50% lard. Use your hands as little as possible though, because the crust benefits from the fats remaining as cold as possible and your hands will warm it up significantly. His sense is that with larger chunks you still get to experience the unique character of each apple. Flip the dough over and roll it out the rest of the way until there is about 1” of excess crust, adding a sprinkling of flour where needed. Knowing that I was working with a limited asset, I had decided to roll out my crust before cutting up any apples, but this too was a disaster. I hope for a day when these lovely fruits are more accessible to those of us who aren’t lucky enough to have access to them at farmers markets and orchards. Did your father, who worked long hard days, actually sit for a while and smile at the dinner table?
I’ve made an awful lot of pies in my life, but these apples really made this a singularly delightful pie experience.
Can you also tell us what apples you ended up using for your pie that you purchased at Whole Foods?
I told him, as succinctly as that medium requires (140 characters per “tweet” max), that it wasn’t really about “pie” literally, though pies occur around me occasionally, but that it was about the feelings that pies evoke, the pictures they conjure in one’s head of grandmas and windowsills and warmth and love and family. I like Twitter because it lets you be a fly on the wall and watch all of these different worlds go by. He baked them in a pan and noted their characteristics, leading to the conclusion that the Newtown Pippen was the best for this purpose because it was firm and held up so well. Kate baked the pies, and Jon suggested the next modifications and did the work with the fruit.
For the apples, he went back to the method he used for choosing an apple for the tarte tatin, and he put many different apples together in a pan and baked them. So, as with so many things, it pays to learn about what you are purchasing and to purchase it from a reputable source. The coldness of the fats, and the sizes of the fat pieces in the dough, affect how the fats react with the heat of the oven. Gently shape each half into a disk about 1-? inches thick by placing your palm on top of the wrap and gently pressing down. Smaller pieces give you a wonderful composite flavor but you lose part of the experience of enjoying these magnificent individual apples. One hour total is really the right time and if you keep going too long you run the risk of cooking your apples into oblivion.
I felt like I needed to call and apologize, because I truly had not understood the variety and the beauty of all of these heirloom apples. The email said, “How much lard do you need, I’ll FedEx it when I get home.” He was in the middle of a family wedding in Louisiana. And there it was on my counter, looking like it should have been sitting in the pie cooler of the blue ribbon winner of the county fair.
Working with them, eating them, and baking them was an experience I want to have again, and often. Greg Morago of the Houston Chronicle had “a little sliver.” Jim and Diane Gossen of Louisiana Foods had some. Was your mother rewarded with praise and love for her work in the kitchen, or was her work expected and ignored. This is in contrast to cakes, which I also like, but that conjure up visions of bakeries and teetering wedding confections. It is like a dial on an old car radio where you turn back and forth across several stations at a time…a girl’s voice, a man’s voice, a song, a commercial, little snippets of life.
Then he noted the unique textures, flavors, and aromas…all of the apples had their own character and profile. They worked with several different butters and came to the conclusion that a particular brand, Kerrygold, produced a noticeably better crust. And the differing sizes of the fat pieces also give variability to those processes within the crust.
Remember, you are going for variety more than a particular list of apples so get what you are able to get (Soon, I will be the proud owner of my very own refractometer and I will be able to test my own apples for sweetness). When you roll out the top layer, you will want to brush off any excess flour before applying the egg wash. It also helps to compact the apples to prevent a giant head space from forming between the baked apples and the crust on the finished pie. Somehow, I thought they would be small and soft, yet several were some of the largest apples I have ever seen.
I’d be damned before I let him FedEx lard to me if it was within my power to make it myself. He set it on one of the coffee tables in the lobby of this busy hotel and got on the phone to call Jim Gossen, who showed up with his wife and Penny de los Santos, a photographer whose work I admire a great deal. And Robb Walsh and his wife Kelly even managed to snag the one remaining piece the next day.
Northwest and Northeast are so fortunate to have such great access to these special apples.
Pies beat cakes hands down for pure emotional impact, regardless of your personal pie history. In a massive hunt for the best West Coast peach a few years prior for a supermarket client, a grower had introduced him to a refractometer. Leaf lard and butter, used in combination, gave the crust a certain character and a certain flavor that the crusts made from either, alone, did not have.
The reward for variety is that there are so many lovely textures and flavors and aromas in the baked apples. Thus there is a little shot of unrefined apple cider vinegar instead of the more oft seen lemon juice.
There is no way to explain how I feel about these two gentlemen who were prepared to move mountains to make sure I baked a good pie. And that was only the beginning of the parade of people that we told about our pie and its journey. I look down and see my Grandmothers hands in my own forming for my children a memory that I saw her hands form for me.
Because he was looking at them all, baked, right next to one another, in a light bulb moment he realized what he would be missing if he chose just one or even two of all of these distinctive and interesting apples. I used a Macoun, a Stayman Winesap, a Goldrush, a Spitzenburg, a Newtown Pippen, and a Melrose. They no longer turn to me for everything but I can put a good meal on the table and a wonderful pie for dessert and I can see the complete contentment in their faces that they are home. I put my jars of lard in the refrigerator, and within a few hours I had the whitest, creamiest, loveliest fat I’ve ever seen. Do you eat alone at a desk, enjoying the solitude and the quality of flavors in the absence of the constant sensory overload of family? Additionally, he decided that no particular group of apples is the right group, but it is the very fact of the variety that makes each pie so interesting and unique. As I approached security with fear and trepidation, I looked up and saw nothing but a sea of smiles. It is general to our culture and it is specific, in its presence or absence, in our own lives. Lily ran in every time I cut a new one and grabbed a chunk for herself and ran one out to her father in his work room.
The first thing I heard as I jumped out of Pitts’ car at the airport was some ass on the curb saying, “You’re not really gonna try to fly with that thing are you? He learned more and more about them over a period of years and kept coming back to the idea that the very best expression for the apples, the best showcase for their character, was in a pie.
The effort to gauge the sweetness of the apples being used is also the reason behind there being so little sugar in the recipe that follows. When you use sweet apples, they speak for themselves, and you do not have to cover them in mounds of sugar.
I had a lovely conversation with a woman in front of me about lard and Crisco and daughters.



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