My dog has separation anxiety and chews,climbing rope dog collars,small dog leash training,best dog food for pitbull coat - Review
Author: admin, 22.05.2014Seperation anxiety may be preventable with proper socialization and training when a puppyPuppies should be well socialized with other animals and people. We also offer free, instant access to over 1,500 related articles on your pet's health including preventive medicine, common and not so common diseases, and even informative case studies. Canine separation anxiety is more than just boredom related mischief where your home-alone dog chews the cushions for something to do. With over 600 hospitals and 1,800 fully qualified, dedicated and compassionate veterinarians, we strive to give your pet the very best in medical care. Not good toward boarding, grooming, prescription and non-prescription medication, and retail items. A well adjusted puppy should do well either alone or with the family and will be less likely to have seperation anxiety in the future. Dogs that live with one human family member can become over-attached to them, leading to anxiety when they leave.
Separation anxiety in dogs is not due to any specific breed characteristic and panicked or distressed behavior mainly occurs due to socialization problems and over-dependence.Learn more! Such a program involves getting your dog used to the cues that indicate you are going to leave.You then teach him to cope with slowly increasing periods of being alone, and make your return to the home very low-key. Destructive activity is often focused on owner possessions, or at the doors where owners depart or the dog is confined, and most often occurs shortly after departure. If the dog destroys, vocalizes or eliminates both while the owners are at home and when they are away, other causes should first be considered.
Dogs that eliminate when owners are at home may not be completely housetrained or may have a medical problem. If the destruction, elimination and vocalization are more likely to arise the longer the owners are away from home, it may be that they are being left alone too long.
Some dogs will attempt to escape or become extremely anxious when confined, so that destructiveness or house-soiling when a dog is locked up in a crate, basement, or laundry room, may be due to confinement or barrier anxiety and associated attempts at escape. In other situations fear or anxiety due to an external event (construction, storms, fireworks) may trigger destructive behaviors.
Old dogs with medical problems such as loss of hearing or sight, painful conditions and cognitive dysfunction may become more anxious in general, and seek out the owner's attention for security and relief.
Perhaps the best way to determine if the behaviors are due to the anxiety associated with the owner's departure is to make an audiotape or movie clip of the behavior when the dog is alone.
Establish a daily routine so that your dog can begin to predict when it can expect attention (including exercise, feeding, training, play and elimination) and when it should be prepared for inattention (when it should be napping or playing its favored toys.
Try to schedule these times for object play and naps at times when you would normally depart.
In effect, you should initiate enough regular interactive sessions and provide enough play and attention so that when each session is over, your pet is prepared to settle down and relax.
At this point, new exploratory and chew toys can be given so that the pet has novel and motivating toys on which to focus when it is time to settle. Feeding toys can also replace standard food bowls to make feeding time more of a mental and physical effort.
With separation anxiety you must reinforce the pet for settling down, relaxing and showing some independence, while attention seeking and following behaviors should never be reinforced. Therefore, training should focus on extended and relaxed down stays and going to a bed or mat on command (see our 'Training Dogs - Settle and Relaxation Training' handout). If your dog seeks attention, you should either ignore your dog entirely until it settles, or have your dog do a down-stay or go to its mat. You want your dog to learn that calm and quiet behavior is the only way to receive attention. Not only should attention-seeking behavior be ignored, but all casual interactions should be avoided for the first few weeks, so that it is clear to both you and your dog that a settled response achieves rewards and attention seeking does not. Practice down stays and mat exercises using food lures, clicker training or head halter training, whichever is most effective.
Gradually shape longer stays and longer times on the bed or mat before attention, affection, treats or play is earned. You can begin by training your pet to go to the area and gradually shape longer stays and more relaxed responses in the area before rewards are given. It might be helpful to have a barricade, tie down or crate that could be closed to ensure that your dog remains in the area for long enough at each session before being released. On the other hand, know your pets' limits; your dog must be calm and settled when released so as to avoid reinforcing crying or barking behavior.
At first your dog can be taken to this area as part of its training routine using a toy or treat as a lure or a leash and head halter.
In time, a daily routine should be established where the dog learns to lie on its mat after each exercise, play and training session to either nap or play with its own toys.
This is similar to the routine for crate training, where the mat or bed becomes the dog's bed or playpen. Other than play, exercise and training sessions, focus on giving your dog some or all of its rewards (treats, toys, chews, affection, feeding toys) only in this area. Audible cues such as a radio, CD or TV, odors such as aromatherapy candles or a piece of clothing with the owner's scent, and a comfortable bed can help to promote a relaxed response since they are associated with relaxation and owner presence (non-departure).
This can be as simple as having the dog respond to a command such as "sit" prior to receiving anything it wants. For example if the dog asks to go outside, prior to opening the door the dog is given the command to "sit" and once it complies, the door is opened.
See our handout on 'Training Dogs – Learn to Earn and Predictable Rewards' for other examples. In addition, the pet must learn to accept progressively longer periods of inattention and separation while the owners are at home.
Your dog should soon learn that the faster it settles, the sooner it will get your attention. On the other hand, some dogs learn that other signals indicate that you are not planning to depart (inhibiting cues) and therefore can help the dog to relax. If you can prevent your dog from observing any of these anxiety inducing pre-departure cues, or if you can train your dog that these cues are no longer predictive of departure, then the anxiety is greatly reduced.
Even with the best of efforts some dogs will still pick up on "cues" that the owner is about to depart and react. Train your pet to associate these cues with enjoyable, relaxing situations (rather than the anxiety of impending departure).
By exposing the dog to these cues while you remain at home and when the dog is relaxed or otherwise occupied, they should no longer predict departure.
Get the items (keys, shoes, briefcase, jacket etc.) that normally signal your departure, and walk to the door. The dog will be watching and possibly get up, but once you put every thing away, the dog should lie down. Only 3-4 repetitions should be done in a day and the dog must be calm and quiet before presenting the cues again. Eventually, the dog will not attend to these cues (habituate) because they are no longer predictive of you leaving and will not react, get up or look anxious as you go about your pre-departure tasks.
You may need to begin with food lure exercises, starting with a down-stay and gradually increasing the time and the level of relaxation at each session. Once the pet will stay in your presence, begin to walk away and return beginning with just a few feet for a few seconds and progressing over time to leaving the room for 30 minutes or longer. Reward with a quiet play or attention session, perhaps coming back and giving a gentle massage or tummy rub. In this way the desired behavior is being shaped and reinforced with the very attention that the dog craves.
Remember however, that attention at other times, especially on demand, encourages the dog to follow and pester rather than stay in its bed and relax.
A head halter can be particularly useful throughout this training to insure that the pet remains in position and immediately responds to the command. From this point on, your dog should be encouraged to stay in its bed or crate for extended periods of time rather than sitting at your feet or on your lap.
If your dog can also be taught to sleep in this relaxation area at night rather than on your bed or in your bedroom, this may help to break the over-attachment and dependence more quickly. This may be because the dog has learned to relax and enjoy the car rides, without receiving constant physical attention and contact.
This provides a degree of proof that the dog can learn to relax if it is used to being ignored, has a location where it feels settled and gets used to departures gradually. This is similar to the way in which your dog should be trained to relax in your home and accept gradually longer departures.
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