How to stop puppy from biting leash

How to train a puppy not to bark at the door,tips to stop dog pulling on leash,dog advice meme,how to make dogs stop chewing underwear - How to DIY

Author: admin, 22.06.2014

I am often asked by new customers (that do not want to do bite work with their dog) how to teach their dog to be more protective.
To begin with, I think that people who want to do this bark training still need to understand something about the drives of protection training, even if it's only the basics. Some dogs (because of their genes or temperament) are never going to be able to do any type of protection training.
There are several ways to teach a dog to bark for a treat (or a favorite toy), the simplest is in your kitchen or bark yard.
The hardest part of this training is to initially get the dog to understand what you want it to do - which is bark on command.
Once the dog is consistent in the bark command in the same location on the tie out, the next training step is to teach the dog to bark in other places. You will be making headway when you can give the command in a play session without the dog knowing that you have the toy or treat ready for a reward. The game is advanced to the point where the dog is inside the house and the owner steps out the door as he gives the bark command. The next step is for a family member to get involved and step outside to knock or ring the bell. Once the dog will play the game with the family member (or friend) then go back to the door. Throughout all of this training it's important not to over do the exercise during any one training session. The last training goal is to get the dog to bark without seeing the person leave the house with the toy.
The first time you try this, it may be necessary for the family member to crack the door a bit to let the dog see them and the treat. Some dogs have the ability to do protection work but the owners don't care to pursue it or don't have the skills to train it. Don't assume that just because you have a German Shepherd, Doberman or Rottie that your dog can be worked in the method I am about to describe. In this next type of training we will use the dogs natural suspicion levels to enhance his barking. At the first peep out of the dog, the friend jumps out, looks at the dog (without saying a word) for ONE SECOND (no more) and then turns and runs away. If the dog does not react, the person in hiding can have a can or milk jug with a couple of rocks in it.
If the dog is old enough (mature enough) and has the right genetic background, it does not take long for him to realize that by barking at a person in hiding that person is going to jump and run away from him.
When the dog is doing a good job of smelling the suspect and barking when the handler alerts him the training will change a little.
Now when the handler is about 10 yards from the suspect he will stop and give an alert command. If you try this and get the bug for the work you can take your dog to the next level of training, which is bite development.
My mother, who lives alone in a rural area wants to have a dog that will bark a warning when someone comes near the house.
You could set up some training sessions where someone does come into the house and threaten the dog - at the first bark the person runs out of the house.
Riley is a very laid back dog and always was although we bought him from a reputable breeder who informed us that both his parents were K9 dogs but apparently nothing was passed on to him.

I have never been around dogs too much so I'm sure I over mother both of them and I know I tend to treat them more like kids than dogs. I tell people that if the genetics are correct then their dogs require training to be developed into protection dogs.
Before you send dogs off for training I strongly recommend that you read the article I wrote on my philosophy of dog training. Hi, my name is Jeff and I have purchased your DVDs on Pack Structure, Basic Obedience and Electric Collar Training. The most important thing in this training is to be consistent with the choice of words you use for "bark" and to praise with the first bark or noise.
It seems that once the light bulb goes off in their head they enjoy the game (some like it a little too much.) Some dogs are not natural barkers. The goal of this training step is to get the dog to realize that if he barks at the door he is going to be rewarded with a treat or a toy and play. The odds are that if they are American bloodline dogs they CAN NOT do this defensive training. The suspect now hides up wind of the dog (the wind is blowing from the back of the dog team) so the dog cannot smell the hidden person until he is actually by the person.
By using good common sense and watching the reaction of the dog a handler can fine-tune what he wants.
You would not want to do this one too much or the dog will light up on every single person that comes near you at night. Give the alert command from inside the house and take the dog outside (on leash - this is always done on leash).
By going to strange locations, not even where you normally walk, you will raise the dogs alert level and he will be quicker to become suspicious. For this work you would want to look at my tape titled The First Steps of Bite Development and then Training Personal Protection Dogs.
Not only is she not doing what she should be doing - she won't listen - two strikes and you're out! They should rattle the doors or windows at first - to make noise - as time passes they make less and less noise before they come in - the key is that the dog should only bark once for the person to leave. We wanted the dogs for pets but also protection and it concerns me that is someone would try to break into the house they would let them. When you stop and think about it, that's all that 99.9% of the people that have protection dogs need.
Don't think that because the purpose of this training is to eventually have the dog bark at the door that you must sound serious. If there is a problem at this training step, back the training up to the initial familiar tie out spot.
When they return they should ring the bell, the handler gives the bark command and the dog barks and gets the treat. It may take a little creative thinking to make the old light bulb go off in the dog's head. You can do things like have a person walking towards you at night on a dark street, give the alert command at 15 yards.
They have the genetics to play basketball but without training they will never play in the NBA.
I always tell people, if you have an intruder that comes through a barking German Shepherd - you need to SHOOT THEM!!!

One of the best ways I have found to get a dog started in the bark exercise is to add frustration with the reward. During these play sessions, stop and give quick direct eye contact and an enthusiastic GEBLOUT command.
Try and get to the training step where the handler ties the dog, steps outside without giving the bark command and rings the bell or knocks on the door and the dog will bark.
If you do it too many times and the dog gets tired or bored with the game you have created your own problem. If you care to learn more about the difference between German and American bloodlines, click here to read the article I wrote on the subject. I have one of my 5 month old puppies with very sound temperament that will react to the next method, I have also seen many dogs that need to be 24 months of age before they are ready.
If no growl or bark the suspect steps out, tosses the can on the ground in front of the dog and runs away.
The person stops, stares, kind of puffs himself up a little by squaring off at the dog and then runs off at the first growl or bark. The only thing I would strongly recommend is that if you do this work you need to do an excellent job of obedience training your dog.
She doesn't understand that the dog needs social contact and to feel like the house is its territory before it will bark. Other dogs have the genetic background to do bite work but the owners do not wish to take the dogs through bite development. In other words, tie the dog up to the kitchen table leg or your fence in the back yard (initially always in the same spot.) Tease it with the treat as you back away (go out of sight if necessary as you call to the dog).
Set it up so you are walking the dog for several hundred yards before you actually encounter the spot where the person is hiding. It teaches him that just because he cannot smell anything, if the handler says there is something there - then there is something to be careful of.
If you do this alert training and OBEDIENCE TRAINING, you may find yourself in the position where someone is bit and sues you. I have a 13 month old female GS and I would like her to show aggression on command and off on command and the alert command.
The most important part of this exercise is to react instantly to any type of a noise from the dog, even a whine. Come running back and praise with "GOOD GEBLOUT - GOOD GEBLOUT." Give the treat and start again.
The handler watches the dog closely to see the exact moment that the dog smells the person in the bushes or behind the car.
If the dog show the slightest indication that it smells something out there the handler sounds suspicious and says "WHAT IS THAT" with a great deal of seriousness in his tone.
You can whisper the concern to the dog so that he knows there is something different going on here.

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Comments to «How to train a puppy not to bark at the door»

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