59
Summer road trip
often changed (although certainly
other political and economic factors
come into play). But lately these
differences have become a cause
for coming together. The result?
Something new is taking shape: a
unified tourism promotion effort
now binds Mindanao even as the
complicated histories of its constituent
parts defy homogenization. Everyone
wants a fair shot at the economic
growth tourism can bring. It is, finally, a
campaign everyone can be a part of.
In tuna town
We begin our journey in GenSan,
formerly part of South Cotabato. In
1988, it was reclassified as a highly
industrialized city, the aim being to run
it independently of its home province,
in much the same way that Iligan and
Davao operate. GenSan remains the
region’s busiest urban center, thanks in
no small part to the presence of major
malls like KCC and starred hotels. It’s
also well known as the hometown of
boxer Manny Pacquiao —whose bout
with FloydMayweather next month in
Las Vegas is being touted as the “Fight
of the Century” — and of tuna so fresh
it’s capable of bringing tears to the eyes
of Japanese and Korean chefs.
Heralded as The Tuna Capital of the
Philippines, the city boasts a Fish Port
Complex that sees hundreds, if not
thousands, of yellowfin tuna change
hands every day. The early morning
is the best time to visit the fish port,
which is why we rush over in the
bluish darkness of 5am, just as a flotilla
of fishing boats is returning from a
night of deep-sea fishing. Visitors are
required to wear white rubber boots
provided at the information counter,
which is decorated with posters of
the many varieties of fish sold at the
market along with images of protected
species. Illegal fishing of these species
carries heavy penalties.
As soon as a boat docks, uniformed
porters hoist yellowfin tuna or blue
marlin on their shoulders and lug it
off the vessels into waiting carts. The
fish, after being labeled with the names
of the fishermen responsible for that
catch, is taken a fewmeters away to
a building where traders weigh and
inspect each one. Bidding ensues and
all the action is over before 8am. An
average of 750 tons of yellowfin tuna
are reportedly brought into the market
every month, much of it for export.
From top: weaving
a piece of
t’nalak
at
the School of Living
Traditions; weighing
yellowfin tuna at the fish
port; Jose Bangun of the
T’boli tribe; porters haul
the catch of the day from
fishing boat to market
