TRAVEL
linetheriver,andwiththeircoming,andtheir
competition, the levelof luxuryhasrisenac-
cordingly. ItraveledwithRainforestExpedi-
tions, staying intwoof theirthree lodgesalong
RioTambopata.PosadaAmazonas(a45-minute
boatrideupriver fromPuertoMaldanodo)and
RefugioAmazonas(3½hoursupriver)riseout
of the jungle likesomeSwissFamilyRobinson
oasis,onlytheRobinsons’digsweren’tpol-
ishedtoasheen,withsoftbedsandturn-down
mosquitonetting,hotbuet-stylemeals(often
featuringPeruviancuisine)servedat long
tables inthehigh-roofeddiningarea,andother
civilizedtouches likesoftrollsstuedwith
oliveswaiting,posthike,atthe lodgeentrance.
(Fartherupriver— fourmorehours fromRefu-
gioAmazonas—RainforestExpeditions’ third
lodge, theTambopataResearchCenter, ismore
rustic;moreremoved fromman, though, itoers
greateropportunity forwildlifeencounters.)
Myfavoritepart,however,wasthatwewere
stillverymuchinthejungle.Walkingtobreakfast
eachmorning,Iheardmonkeyschatteringand
shriekingasifengagedinsomedebauchedfrat
party,andcartoonishlycoloredbirdsregardedme
fromthetrees.Ata littlepastnineeachnightthe
electricitywasshuto,plungingtheworldinto
velvetdarknesssothatyoumight lieinyoursoft
bed listeningtosuddenblurtsandsteadydrones
anddeep-throatedstaccatoburstings.
Andoh, thestars.
Daysrevolvedaroundguidedeventsof
guests’ choosing.RainforestExpeditionsoers
everything frombird-watchingtourstocanopy
climbs. Isimplychosetoseeasmuchof the
rain forestaspossible,andEnzoprovedtobe
the idealguide.Hehadanalmostencyclopedic
knowledgeof the jungle, inpartbecausehe
wasbornandraised inPuertoMaldonado(his
grandfatherfishedthe lakeswithabowand
arrow), inpartbecauseRainforestExpeditions
guidesaretrainedbybiologists.Enzopossessed
an instinctualgraspofwhentokeepthings
simple(“little frog,”“bigspider!”)andwhento
discourseat length(Didyouknowtheungainly
lookingcapybara—pictureavery largerat—
swims likeanOlympian,onlyMichaelPhelps
can’tstayunderwater foruptofiveminutes?
Enzotellsmethisafteroneof themnearly leaps
intohiskayak fromtheriverbank).Bestofall,
adventuringwithEnzowas likeexploringwith
your12-year-oldbest friend.Pausingonthe
TRAVELINGTHETAMBOPATA:
Rain-forest accommodationsat, from top, RefugioAmazonas;
PosadasAmazonas; andTambopataResearchCenter;
OPPOSITE
PAGE
: colorful birdsandungainlycapybaras
THISPAGE: JEFFCREMER (3);OPPOSITEPAGE: TOP: JEFFCREMER; INSET: PROMPERU
SUMMER
AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
76
