TOPLEFT: HOLGERLEUE/GETTY IMAGES; RISOTTODISH: SARAREMINGTON; LONECYPRESS:MICHAELHOWELL/GETTY IMAGES
TRAVEL
ONTHEROADAGAIN:
FROM
TOP
LEFT
:
Nepenthe’smuch-talked-about view; anaerial viewof
Carmel ValleyRanch; risottowithpeasand favabeans fromBigSurBakery&Restaurant;
Carmel-by-the-Sea; Restaurant 1833’sdelectable ricotta ravioli
BIGSUR, CARMEL, ANDMONTEREY
Afterafewdays inwinecountry,we’reon
theroadagaintowhat’sarguablythemost
photographed90-milestretchofthecoast,
fromSanSimeonthroughBigSurto
Carmel-by-the-SeaandMonterey.Asour
carclimbssteepclisandridges,passing
secretcovesofbluish-greenwaters,Inotice
eventhewispyfoghere isbeautiful.We
maketherequisitestopat
Nepenthe
to
checkoutthemuch-talked-aboutviewfrom
itsperch,butdine justuptheroadatthe
BigSurBakery&Restaurant
instead.
Themeal isunfussy,buteverybitdelicious
andthoughtful.Wood-firedbreadserved
withsalt-fleckedbutter.Risottowithpeas
andfavabeans.Carrotcakewithginger ice
cream.Wemakeourwaytothe500-acre
CarmelValleyRanch
,wherewildturkeys
anddeergreetus.Ourcozycottage-size
room isoutfittedwithafireplace,balcony,
andsprawlingbath.Thenextmorning,we
finally leavetheroomtotourtheproperty’s
garden,wherefeedingthechickensbe-
comesourdaughter’snewfavoritepastime.
Amidtherowsofkaleandsunflowersand
herbssitsatinysalthouse.Later,I’msuited
upattheapiary,wherebeekeeperJohn
Russotellsusaboutthesecret livesofhon-
eybeesastheybuzzaroundourbodies.
Ourfarmtourcontinuesthenextdayat
EarthboundFarm
,wherewe’reenthralled
byscarletrunnerbeansandraspberries.
Weconsiderpopping into localwineries
suchas
Bernardus
and
Boete
,butheadto-
wardthecharmingtownofCarmel-by-the-
Sea,with itscypresstree-studdedbeach
andcoeeshop-linedstreets.Weamble
awaytheafternoon,strollingpastquaint
Victorian-lookingcottagesandcount-
lessgalleries; thetownhasbeenanartist
colonysincetheearly20thcentury,having
attractedauthors likeJackLondonand
modern-daystars likeClintEastwood.For
dinner,wedrivetoMontereyto
Restau-
rant1833
,set inaheritagebuildingthat’s
servedasthemayor’smansion, theoceof
acharlatandoctor,andseeminglyevery-
thing inbetweensince1833.The libations,
including15varietiesofabsinthe,suitthe
speakeasyvibeandarefollowedbycheddar
biscuits,beetsalad,roastedcauliflower,
ricottaravioli,andbourbonpudding.
SANTABARBARA
SamaSamaKitchen
samasamakitchen.com
ScarlettBegonia
scarlettbegonia.net
BelmondEl Encanto
Rooms from$525, elencanto.com
Four SeasonsBiltmore
Rooms from$395,
fourseasons.com/santabarbara
SantaBarbaraZoo
sbzoo.org
CAYUCOS
CassHouse
casshouseinn.com
BrownButterCookieCompany
brownbuttercookies.com
PASOROBLES
HammerSkyVineyards& Inn
hammersky.com
TablasCreek
tablascreek.com
Denner
dennervineyards.com
Daou
daouvineyards.com
ThomasHillOrganics
thomashillorganics.com
General StorePasoRobles
generalstorepr.com
Re:Find
refinddistillery.com
Negranti Creamery
negrantidairy.com
BIGSUR, CARMEL, ANDMONTEREY
Nepenthe
nepenthebigsur.com
BigSurBakery&Restaurant
bigsurbakery.com
Carmel ValleyRanch
carmelvalleyranch.com
EarthboundFarm
ebfarm.com
Bernardus
bernardus.com
Boete
boetewinery.com
Restaurant 1833
restaurant1833.com
GETTINGTHERE
SantaBarbara isabouta two-hourdrive
fromLosAngeles InternationalAirport.
Americanoersdirectflightsoperated
byUSAirways fromPhoenix toSanta
Barbara.Rentacar to takeyouup the
coastbeforecatchingyour returnflight
fromMontereyRegionalAirport.
SUMMER
AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
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