TRAVEL
STAY:
Antelope Island is
a stateparkwith
camping facilitiesbut
nohotels. Given the
proximity toSalt Lake
City, numerousoptions
areavailable, including
the four-star
Grand
AmericaHotel
(www
.grandamerica.com).
EAT:
Snacks are sold in-
season, but visitors
shouldotherwisepack
picnicsor planon
dining in town.
EXPERIENCE:
Cyclingenthusiasts
headhereevery
July for the24-mile
AntelopebyMoonlight
bike ride
(co.davis
.ut.us/go/moonlight),
and the
annualbuffalo
roundup
isheldevery
November.
ANTELOPE ISLAND,
UTAH
FromFraryPeak’sridgeline,what’sseen
first isarisingcloudofdust.Sevenhundred
headofbisonsooncome intoview, stam-
pedingdownBambergerHillontothesage-
brushprairie.Cowboysgallopalongside
theherd,holleringandcrackingbullwhips
intheairtodrivetheanimalstoward
corrals fortheirannualcheckups.Bythe
lookandsoundof it, thiscouldbearanch
inWyoming,but it isn’t— it’san island in
themiddleofUtah’sGreatSaltLake, just
morethananhour fromdowntownSalt
LakeCity.
KitCarsonwasoneof thefirstAnglo
explorersof the island;hismemoirsmen-
tionridingthrough foot-deepsaltflats in
1843 insearchofpronghornantelope.The
FieldingGarrRanch,established in1848
tomanageMormonstithingherdsofcattle
andsheep, isoneof theoldestrancheswest
of theMississippi.
Wildlife isabundant, includingthe
eponymousantelope,bighornsheep,
bobcatsand250speciesofgrasslandand
shorebirds, fromring-neckedpheasants
toblack-neckedstilts.
Oh,givemeahome
where thebu aloroam/Where thedeer
and theantelopeplay.
…Theclassic lyric
from“HomeontheRange”mayhavebeen
inspiredbyKansasranges,but itsingsthe
praisesofAntelopeIslandtoo.
ANNAMARLISBURGARD (2);WHITEROCKBAY: JASONSAVAGE
STARPOWER:
(clockwise from top) a fishing shackonLegoeBay;WhiteRockBay;
apurple starfishonLummi Island’spebbled shore
STAY:
TheWillows Inn
(www
.willows-inn.com) is
open frommid-March
throughNewYear’s
Eve;
FullBloomFarm
’s
peonies.com) cottage
andapartment are
on land that includes
exoticpeonyvarieties.
EAT:
TheWillows Inn
offers
reservation-only table
d’hôtebreakfast and
dinner services; its
Tap-
rootCafe
and
Beach
StoreCafe
havemore
casual fare through the
day.
TheSauseburger
Stand
burger.com) sellsdeli-
ciousgrilled-sausage
sandwiches.
EXPERIENCE:
Outer IslandExcur-
sions
islandx.com)offers
whale-watching tours
for private charter or to
guestsof TheWillows
Inn. AnnMorris’mythic
SculptureWoods
is
openon the first Satur-
dayof everymonth.
LUMMI ISLAND,
WASHINGTON
Followingan8-minute ferryrideover
HalePassage, travelers jointhe900orso
Lummi localsalonghilly, trac-light-free
roadswithgorgeousseaviews.TheSalish
Seaservesasamoatthatbothprotectsand
provides forthe island;beachesspangled
withpurplestarfish, sealssunbathingon
rocksandbreachingorcawhalesare just
someof itsdelights.
Lummi’sresidentsarearesourceful lot.
If theycan’t farm,fishor forage forwhat
theyneed, itmustbeshipped inatsome
expense, sothey’re inventivewithwhat
theearthandseadeliver. Intheprocess,
they’veelevatedthe locavoreconcepttoa
locaphilia level.ChefBlaineWetzelofThe
WillowsInntakesanorthodoxapproachto
using island ingredients:Heandhissta
collectfiddlehead ferns, salvagesunflower
rootsand forage for freshberriesand
flowerblossomstocreateavarietyofex-
quisite,palate-pushingpresentations.
ButWetzelandhisteamaren’tthe
only faithful.MassagetherapistMichelle
Morrisseypicksnettles forher infused
oils,JudyArntsengathersbullkelptocraft
fluidlyshapedbaskets,andfibersartist
NancySimmermanspinswool from island
sheep.Thesepracticesserveasa formof
homagetothetraditionalworksandartsof
thetribethat lendsLummi itsname.
AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
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