fall 2012
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WINE
A Grape to Call our Rhone
grapevinenursery, andby1997hewasharvestingTablas
Creek’sfirstviablecrop.
“Thenurserywas important in that ithelpedcreate the
category inamodernway,”explainsJasonHaas, general
managerofTablasCreekand thesonofRobertHaas. Inaddi-
tion toplanting thefrenchgrapecuttings, “weactuallyplanted
anacreof eachoffiveCalifornia-sourcedclones (already
growing in thestate) tohaveacontrol group, and found the
grapes fromCaliforniamademuch less interesting, rich, com-
plex, andconcentratedwines than thegrapesgrowingnext to
them thatwebroughtover fromfrance.”at that time the
Haas familymadeanextraordinarydecision tosell thepro-
prietaryfrenchcuttings tootherwinemakers interested in
producingRhone-stylewines. “WeendedupsellingRhone
varietal cuttings tomore than400vineyardsaround the
U.S.,”saysHaas, adding thatapproximately80percentof
Rhonewinesmadebyamericanwinemakers todayorigi-
nated fromcuttingssuppliedbyTablasCreek.
Thatdecision toshareprovedbeneficial, saysHaas, be-
cause ithelped jump-start thespreadofRhonevarietals in
america. In thePasoRoblesregionalone, therearenowmore
than240wineries, about90percentofwhichproduceat least
oneRhonewine.Theyvary from therichredblendsatCalcar-
eousvineyardsandTablasCreek to theestate-grownsyrahs
atVenteux to the lushstone-fruit-flavoredviogniersatKatin.
NeighboringSantaYnez,home tosuch importantwinemakers
asCurtis,ZacaMesa,andrewMurray, andQupé, isperhaps
California’s fastest-growingRhonewineregionbecause the
climate ismostagreeable togrowing thefrenchgrapes. Haas
cuttingscanbe found inbothregionsand,withcontinued
growth inmind, thisyear the familyplans toexpand itscut-
tingnurserywith theadditionof sevennewandrareRhone
varietals, including terretnoir, bourboulenc, picardin, and
muscardin, toroundout its libraryof the13designated
Chateauneuf-du-Papegrapes.
Ironically,manygrapegrowersandwineaficionadoscon-
sideramerican-madeRhonesbetter than those from the
frenchsource.Thewarmdaysandcoolnightsallow the
grapes inCalifornia tohangon thevine longer than inother
growingregions,whichhelps themdevelopmorestructure
andenhancedflavors. “The longer thegrapesareon thevine,
themore theyareable topullupminerals from thesoil, and
themorecomplex thewines,”explainsHaas.
Most important, thegrowingconditions inCaliforniaand
thesouthernRhoneareremarkablysimilar,making foramore
congruousfit. “Iespecially like the fact thatwecanmakemore
naturalwines.Wedon’thave toacidulate them—manipulate
thealcohol— tomakewines that impartacertaingraceoraes-
theticcomplexityyou justcan’tget if thewinehasbeenstrongly
manipulated,”saysGrahm. Inotherwords,headds, “wedon’t
have tomakeheroic interventions tomake thesegrapesgrow
here; theyare justperfectlysuited toourclimate.”
LEFTSIDE (top tobottom)
DENNER
2010 Grenache
The addition of 13 percent syrah and 6 percent couniose
contributeswoody and peppery spices on the nose, which give
way to nuances of cherry, plum, and pomegranate on the
finish. $50, dennervineyards.com
DAVIS FAMILY VINEYARDS
2009 Cuvée Luke
A traditional white cuvee of roussanne, marsanne, and viog-
nier, this flavorful blend of grapes grown inCalifornia’s Sierra
Foothills openswith bright citrus and stone fruits before soft-
ening to a creamy finish. $26, daviswines.com
VENTEUX
2008 Estate Petite Syrah
Dry-farmed on three rolling acres to create a rustic, aromatic
syrahwith hints of hyacinth, plum, and pepper on the nose
and an earthy black-fruit finish. $46, venteuxvineyards.com
STOLPMAN
2009 L’Avion Roussanne
Rich inminerality andgentle acidity, this flavorful roussanne
offers essences of honeycomb, pear, and cashew andfinishes
with a slightly creamy complexity. $38, stolpmanvineyards.com
RIGHTSIDE (top tobottom)
L’AVENTURE
Côte à Côte 2009
A classic GSM (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) blend that favors
big fruit up front — plum, cherry, and blackberry— before
finishingwith hints of cocoa, leather, and subtle spices. $85,
aventurewine.com
CASS
2010Mourvèdre
Unseasonably coldweather in 2010 didn’tmesswith this
mourvedre, which openswith scents of cedar, black cherry,
and cranberry, and offers a smoky, spice-filled finish. $36,
casswines.com
FOLIN CELLARS
2009 EstateMisceo
Latin for “to blend,” theMisceo is a classic syrah-mourvedre-
grenache blend fromOregon’s Rogue Valley that offers bold
spice on the nose and soft black and stone fruits on the finish.
$34, folincellars.com
BONNY DOON VINEYARD
2011 Vin Gris de Cigare
A complexblendof grenache,mourvedre, and cinsault uncharac-
teristically combinedwithwhitegrapes suchas grenacheblanc
and roussannegives a refreshinghint of freshberries and citrus
to thisCotes deProvence-style cuvee rose.$16, bonnydoon
vineyard.com
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